BlueZ31 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Since my last post was disqual'd id like to reword it.... Im looking for a dependable brand, better than O.E.M clutch, ive heard bad things and good things about the "steals" on ebay like F1 racing and "Boss" which seems to be valero brand clutches reboxed and renamed, and ive even heard of people, not just on ebay, buying stock style clutches and repainting them or photo shopping the product picture to fool buyers into some crappy used or resurfaced materials....thats why i asked what brand to use in my last post, not really to find the "best" (sorry for using that, im still new here and my mind slipped) Im looking at Clutch Masters, theyve been around awhile and im assuming one wouldnt make it 34+ years in the industry by ripping people off, my cars NA now and forever but its slowly piling on lots of upgrades thatll hopefully break at most 200hp at the crank (notice i said crank and not wheels, had someone mistake an old post of mine and rant about no one being able to make 200rwhp with a NA vg30e...haha) Again sorry for breaking the "best" rule ill throw that vocab out the window in this forum, and i hope you guys can lend a hand in finding the proper clutch...i drive long distances at 60+mph and experience alot of stop-go-stop-go BS so i need a super-extra heavy-duty-military surplus weapons-grade clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I would think the stock clutch would be more than sufficient for those sort of numbers you want. The stock 240mm clutches for the older Z can handle quite a lot of abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I've been gradually warming over the L28 in my 73 and have stayed with the stock clutch until now. Basically for street driving the stock clutch is adequate, although now just barely. But as soon as it gets some heat in it, I'll get slippage on hard 1-2 upshifts. I'm not talking about a hot day, but rather doing some exercises at a HPDE that involve agressive launches. I'm going to go with a Centerforce II pressure plate along with their disc. The general concensus on this site was to use a PP with more clamping force and a stock disc, but CF only sells them bundled together. I won't have it installed for a few more weeks so can't comment on it yet. But most people here in our situation (warmed over L28) were happy with its extra torque capacity and yet still found it reasonable for a street driven car. Search on "centerforce" and you can read their thoughts yourself. Edit: just noticed that you've got a Z31 - sorry, my comments are based on an L28 in an S30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Perfect way to phrase question! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D15T0RT10N Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I have the Centerforce Dual Friction in my 87 N/A. It's a marvelous clutch. It's centerfugal, so at higher rpms its easy to shift, and grabs great. At a stop the pedal grabs early, and when controlled properly will snatch very well. I've heard complaints from the turbo crowd about them exploding under heavy load, but after spending time with mine, I think those problems are a result of abuse and misuse, not the clutch set itsself. It's not a 'normal' clutch, it requires a learning curve, but it's well worth getting used to. I would advise though that it is not one to be beat on. It needs to be treated with care and respect. You can do burn outs all you like, but if you do it wrong, lets say, revving up to 6k and just dropping the pedal, I wouldn't be surprised at all to hear it fly apart. It just wasn't made that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueZ31 Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 right now im getting to swap on a set of worked heads along with an gutted plenum and hot ignition, backed by full tube headers and a cat-back system...the only problem is that its my daily driver with 140k on the clock and i have 1 week to do the head/cam/intake swap AND change the clutch b4 i have to get back to work (im taking the time sometime next month) so i just really needed a quick opinion so i could fire out a check to order the clutch and get everything ready to go.. Thanks again, and ill defininently keep the dual friction style in mind since most of the power ill be making will be upper and mid rpms, and ill doubt itll explode because the motor itself wont have anywhere near the torque band of a turbo mill, the only other kind i was seriously considering was a ceramic puck-style, a bit expensive and chattery from what ive heard but worth every penny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I would recommend a DXD clutch or a south bend clutch. Found here. http://www.z31parts.com/. They offer a very close to stock pedal feel with up to 800 ft/lb of torque capacity. They are all full faced clutch discs, which helps with modulation of the clutch pedal for smooth engagement. Don't forget to have your flywheel and pressure plate assembly balanced before you re-install it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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