Guest Fast Frog Posted March 18, 2001 Share Posted March 18, 2001 John: Welcome to the forum!! Block huggers work best for most ZV8 applications. However, check out www.sandersonheaders.com they've got some good tech advise worth reading. You may find that you may not need "as much or as big" as you thot. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 What you buy depends on your application--how much horsepower you want and how much $$$ you have. I decided to go with cheapie block huggers due to cost and due to the fact that I will have about 300hp in my Chebbie motor. If I could, I would go with ceramic coated full length headers from a quality outfit like Sanderson, but that's major $$$ which I don't have. I'm cheap and proud of it... until I get money David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 Q, what headers to use in our application. ive seen many different headers on Z cars. Which one? block hugger, standard Headers. thanks for you input. ------------------ John N. Aiello 1973 240Z L28/SU'S/5-Speed(for now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 21, 2001 Share Posted March 21, 2001 what do you guys think of S&S headers? I was talking to someone there about my conversion (76 280z with 95 Corvette LT1) and he gave me some info on full length headers that were designed for tight LT1 swaps. I can't remember the part number right now... Anyway, I called them back a couple of days ago and ordered them. Got them ceramic coated for a grand total of about $600. OUCH. Owell, nothing's too good for my beast. Or am I nuts for ordering them? Too late anyway, they already sent them to get coated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 21, 2001 Share Posted March 21, 2001 forgot to mention... www.ssheaders.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 23, 2001 Share Posted March 23, 2001 Heh, let us know how they fit and please tell us how well they go in. I'm thinking I want shorty headers but I'd be interested in knowing how well long tubes go in. $600 is a pile but worth it to get good fitting headers instead of headers that don't fit IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 23, 2001 Share Posted March 23, 2001 Hey BLKMGK, I am too tired tonight to search the archives for you, but there was a great thread a while back where Rick Johnson talked about using full length headers. Soomeone even mentioned the company of origin that sells them for a relatively lower price. All you would need would be the ceramic coating and you're good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted March 23, 2001 Share Posted March 23, 2001 In the latest Jeg's catalog, they show some block-hugger headers for $99 painted, or $199 coated. If you're not going show quality, is there that much of a difference between their $199 jobs and $600 or so for Sandersons? I realize you get what you pay for, but where does the difference in quality come in? I'd think that, being coated inside and out, they'd be pretty much bulletproof, wouldn't they? ------------------ Scott Ferguson 1976 260-Z, surrounded by an ever-growing cloud of V8 parts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted March 23, 2001 Share Posted March 23, 2001 I think he was talking 600.00 for coated full lengthe headers if Im not mistaken! I purchased sanderson block huggers for 205.00 and had them coated for 130 from takman in Texas. Sanderson quality is IMO better, thicker gauge metal etc.. jmo..Full size headers from Sanderson would be pricey Im sure but also awsome too! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 23, 2001 Share Posted March 23, 2001 A big difference between th eHookers in Jeg's and the Sanderson other than material is sizing. I think the Hookers might be a bit small for higher powered apps whereas the Sandersons can be gotten in several sizes. This is one of the reasons I'm hesitant to get the Hookers and am looking at the Sandersons. However I'm not sure what size primary would work best with a 400+hp engine and which Sanderson headers will fit with the least fuss on straight plug heads (sigh). So, I've considered buying the Hookers uncoated knowing they're probably small, getting the car running and happy - possibly wrapping those headers, and then next Winter crossing over to Sanderson headers while the car is down for the weather. I do know that I'll go shorty no matter what. Some of the dyno tests I've seen haven't shown huge gains with long tube headers until obscene power ranges and the hassle and expense of long tubes really don't make me desire them much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 29, 2001 Share Posted May 29, 2001 Here's the info from the thread ( http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=8&t=000149 ) I have emailed him asking about how well the headers fit, since I had problems getting them to fit (interfered with knock sensors, hung too far below pan)... Will let you know what I find... quote: Originally posted by Rick Johnson: I have S & S full length headers on my 73 240 Z. I just called them, told them what I had, and they shipped me a set of 1 3/4 full length(but relatively short). I believe they are for a 32 Ford with a Chevy engine. After mocking them up in my car, I decided I wanted the collector to angle down slightly. I think we chose a 5 degree down angle over what they would normally use. At the same time I told Loauren at S & S that I would use 2 1/2" pipe and never disconnenct the headers. He suggested that I switch to a 2 1/2" collector because it would give me more room and actually perform better if the exhaust pipes remain connected. I am very pleased with this set up and have no contact issues. It should also be noted that the right side seems to hang down a bit lower than the left. To maximise clearance I got rid of the spacer that JTR recommends between the frame and the engine cross member. This also helps correct the massive driveshaft angularity problem with this conversion (although not completely) [This message has been edited by Rick Johnson (edited February 19, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone Star 1 Posted May 29, 2001 Share Posted May 29, 2001 Hey guys I to had a little problem with the steering shaft interferance. I just unbolted the colum at the firewall, drilled about 1/4" of firewall to the driverside of the collum and slid the collum over about 1/2". I used a 1"x2" board to hold the collum as for over as possable, then drilled new holes in the collum mounting bracket inside and rebolted. This gave me an extra 3/8" to 1/2" clearence between the exhaust manifold and steering shaft. Don't know if any has tried this but it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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