forced1(nyc) Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Great! Thanks for the tips. One more, is that the ecu beside the battery tray? I want to remove the harness and leave it attached to the engine. I say this because once I am done, so will the burb!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted December 18, 2008 Administrators Share Posted December 18, 2008 Great! Thanks for the tips. One more, is that the ecu beside the battery tray? Yeup, that should be the PCM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced1(nyc) Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 I want to know what I have. The engine from the burb has 133k on it. I want 4-500hp on motor. What can I do to improve on this engine that I have. It is from a 2001 burb LT. Do I change pistons, heads, cam, intake? Suggestions..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted January 19, 2009 Administrators Share Posted January 19, 2009 In short, for the power level you want, (still using the 5.3 I assume), boost would be the most economical, logical route and will EASILY attain 400-500 HP mark, even 600 HP and still be steetable. If N/A, even a true 400 HP will be peaky and will require more custom internals than a 6.0L to produce the same power! Especially if you want 500 HP, definitely will be into custom internals for the 5.3 and it will be VERY peaky, which is fine for race car, but not too much fun for a street toy. If N/A , I say sell the 5.3 find a 6.0L as it will attain 400 HP easier with less costly parts and wont be as peaky to drive. If your budget can afford a Turbo or two, the 5.3 is MORE than capable of the power levels you desire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced1(nyc) Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 So basically, buy a supercharger kit and call it a day? Should I just refresh the block and heads because of the miles, or just replace the timing chain, etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted January 20, 2009 Administrators Share Posted January 20, 2009 400 HP should be “ok” on stock internals, so long as you are very attentive to the tune, i.e. conservative AFRs and conservative timing while under boost. To make best use of the blower, I would consider a piston with more dish to drop the compression ratio a little further, possibly a forging? While you are in there, don't forget ARP rod bolts. With the lower compression, you should be able coax 500+ HP safely, again, being sure to tune the PCM to deliver the right amount of fuel with the right amount of ignition advance for the boost levels and grade of fuel you will run, “premium!” Even if you don't mod it, I say go for it! Any LSx, whether it is a bone stock 4.8, or 5.3, get it in and running, even stock it will perform with much more spunk than the stock NA VG30DE! ('01 5.3 stock rated at 285 HP @ 5200 RPM, 325 lbs/ft @ 4000 RPM) Then take your time looking for that great deal on a the LSx of your dreams, and either build it or just swap it in! The conversion part of the project will already be done! I'm planning a smilar route. The 5.3 out my wifes '01 Suburban in my ’93 Z-32. It would make for nice “starter” LSx with considerably more torque and HP than the stock N/A VG30DE! With freer flowing exhaust should perform comparably to the stock VG30DETT! I have to remove the heads on this one and replace a lifter, (because I can, will most likely perform a mild Rusch Motorsports port job with 4/5 angle valve job) will probably leave the stock cam if it isn’t too damaged from the seized roller lifter, otherwise might look into using a stock LS1 cam, (GM pt# 12561721) with LS6 valve springs and will definitely be using the ’01 Vette LS-1 intake I already have. Might even use my WOLF V-500 stand alone EFI. As mentioned above, once it is running, conversion portion done and major bugs worked out, then locate that 6.0L diamond in the rough short/long block and build the LSx I really want to run, or maybe the L-92 with the VVT?... Did someone say, "single plane crank?".... "...Here Viper Viper Viper...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced1(nyc) Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I say use a stock cam to keep it a sleeper. Once you change it, it will be hard to pull up on any unsuspecting victim quietly. You know what, that has got to be the best advice yet. Finish with the conversion, then find a totaled ZR-1!!! Do you know who has pics of the motor mounts? I pm other members, but nothing yet. If you come across anything, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted January 20, 2009 Administrators Share Posted January 20, 2009 I say use a stock cam to keep it a sleeper. Once you change it, it will be hard to pull up on any unsuspecting victim quietly. .... Good idea. Thanks for the advice. ... Do you know who has pics of the motor mounts? I pm other members, but nothing yet. If you come across anything, let me know. Found this in a quick LS7 motor mount search; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/508069-ls7-motor-mounts.html http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hrdp_0704_engine_swap/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced1(nyc) Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I have a 90 TT shell. I am hoping that I could use the added plumbing up front for the air induction. I am also going to relocate the fuse box on the driver's side fender well, for more clearance and a cleaner look. If I don't use the stock air box, I can use that location and put it under the center panel for easy access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trsilvias13 Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 I have a 240sx with a mounting kit from sikky. Their pan may be your solution. Although the chasis is different, but engine placement in regards to subframe seem similar. You may want to check out their custom oil pan. It is quite expensive though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zangiefisgod Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I have a 240sx with a mounting kit from sikky. Their pan may be your solution. Although the chasis is different, but engine placement in regards to subframe seem similar. You may want to check out their custom oil pan. It is quite expensive though. The Sikky kit is sweet. I emailed them to see if it was adaptable to the Z32. Did you happen to take measurements before your swap? I would be interested to know the relationship between the s13/14 and z32 subframe locations. KC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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