Dayz Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Guys, I have searched the net on this topic, anyone has used welding cable for their relocated battery? Anyone has a chart of the size to use? The consensus on the web from what I have read is that it is perfect to use and is more flexible. The difference is that welding cable has more strands in the wire. I am just wondering which size I need to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Figure out how many amps your complete system will draw at sustained peak. Anyone selling the cable should be able to tell you from there, if not post here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebolt Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 I would go with a 4/0 or better (larger size). Here is a bit of information concerning wire size. It is scaled starting with the smallest size first and the last being the largest; 14 smallest in this example 12 10 8 6 4 3 2 1 0 00 usually written as 1/0 000 usually written as 2/0 0000 usually written as 3/0 250 300 etc. to 2000 largest in this example Welding cable is fine strand which is excellent for DC Voltage, like a battery connected to a starter or high amperage stereo system. So for a quick reference, 300 amps DC if you used 4/0 size copper fine stranded wire it should be fine for like a 10 foot run and that wire should be about 3/8 of an inch thick. Best of luck on the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Good Lord... 4/0 is Huge! 4/0 should be capable of supporting 300 Amps or so over a run of something more than 100 feet! It is rated up to 600 Amps over shorter runs. I don't know what a typical battery cable runs in size, but they look to be about #1 or 1/0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 From what I read, #4 to 1/0 is the way to go. I haven't calculated the amps of everything yet, I would need to do that. I had #4 originally on the Z and I haven't had anything. I think I should be fine with a #4, I will let you know. I am still looking for a chart. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 Got a good Chart I believe, http://www.windsun.com/Hardware/Wire_Table.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebolt Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Good Lord... 4/0 is Huge! 4/0 should be capable of supporting 300 Amps or so over a run of something more than 100 feet! It is rated up to 600 Amps over shorter runs. I don't know what a typical battery cable runs in size, but they look to be about #1 or 1/0. Why yes it is large cable. I use 25 feet of 2/0 on my personal 300 amp DC tig welder. Works fine. For a battery relocation kit the largest I have seen is only a 2/0 so my suggestion for an 4/0 isn't that far off, remember as copper corrodes it looses conductivity and voltage drop becomes apparent and a real problem. If your moving your battery to the rear and possibly using a disconnect switch than 10 feet should just about cover the distance, so if someone is tracing your steps they can ask the local welding shop dealer for 10 feet and they should be covered. That's the length I bought/used, and routed the cable under the car. From what I read, #4 to 1/0 is the way to go. I haven't calculated the amps of everything yet, I would need to do that. I had #4 originally on the Z and I haven't had anything. I think I should be fine with a #4, I will let you know. I am still looking for a chart. Thanks Yes, for most battery cables 3-6 feet your going to find precut and terminated ends at #4 to 1 or so. But if your relocating your battery I would strongly suggest you use a larger size for those reasons stated above. But your coin do what you like. I also solder the ends of the terminations to prevent corrosion and wick it up the copper into the insolation, then tape off the contact point and dip them in some tool handle dip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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