Guest needwaymorespeed Posted February 12, 2001 Share Posted February 12, 2001 Im currently working on some custom rear knuckles to allow the use of the rear brakes from a 90-96 300 z and the cv shaft with the larger splined axle and the hub for this axle. I figure this will kill several problem areas at once 1-will have the 5 lug set up 2-have a cv half shaft"the shaft will have to be shortened and resplined to work in the narrower 240 z 3-big nice rear brakes 4-eliminate the stock stub axle What I need from you smart fellers is some input on these questions 1- what should I make this knucle out of currently have chromemoly 3/8 thick speced out for the back plate ,is this overkill- the backplate will have the lower point of the strut mounted to it and the location points for the lower control arm and the bearing for the wheel hub 2-should I install the strut at the same location on this knuckle or should I move the struts lower mounting point inboard on the car?? Would allow for bigger tires in the rear with coiloves I think I could move the strut inboard 1 inch on the bottom? I also think that moving it inboard would help with the camber gain?? "am I thinking right??" With some quick measurements tonight it looks like the rear strut is at a 75 degree angle to the wheel if i move it in it will change the angle to the wheel to a 72-74 degree ,would also have to change the top strut mount-figure I could just put a 1 to 3 degree slope on the top stut isolator to compensate for the angle change,or is it even a concern?? We have some very sharp people here and cant wait to hear back! thanks Curtis Bodily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest needwaymorespeed Posted February 15, 2001 Share Posted February 15, 2001 Any ideas anyone???? pete?? mike?? BLUEOVALZ?? Ross?? im waiting on you smart fellers Curtis yes im going to document this well just worked on the knuckles ,off the 300 z tonight-there made out of aluminum with 5 arms on them for attaching points and 2 ears for the caliper,has a whole machined in the center for the cv joint to pass through with 5 bolt holes,the bolt holes are how the bearing and holder mount to the knuckle- cut the 5 arms off of it tonight going to mill it flat in the nex couple of days,get 5 bolts that are longer -to allow me to bolt this on to my flat plate of chrome moly. I think i realy need to get some pics scanned so you can see this itll be swee t Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted February 15, 2001 Share Posted February 15, 2001 Sorry, saw this at work the other day and didn't have time to comment. Wow, that's an ambitious endeavor. Are you going to weld some kind of thick tube to the backplate to carry the bearings/stub axle? It guess a stock Z strut tube hacked off the casting and then welded to the tube/backplate would work. As far as moving the attachment point inboard, I'd want to see the effect on camber gain. It would give you less camber gain, I guess, but I'm not sure that's desireable. Anyway, moving just the bottom of the strut an inch will only give about 1/2" of inboard wheel clearance. I doubt it's worth it. Well, that's my 230am stream of consciousness anyway . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted February 16, 2001 Share Posted February 16, 2001 i think i would weld up some control links to bolt to the 300zx spindle and re-engineer the back of the z-then it would be easier to align and get more adjustment.i would use hiem joints for the links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest needwaymorespeed Posted February 16, 2001 Share Posted February 16, 2001 Are you going to weld some kind of thick tube to the backplate to carry the bearings/stub axle? Pete thanks for the reply , nope I wont have to weld a tube to the backplate to carry the bearing,the 300 z has the wheel bearing pressed into a removable housing-this housing has 4 bolt holes in it,these holes are threader so all I have to do is take my backplate ,put a hole in the middle of it ,drill the holes for the bolts in the right location,put the stock 300 z knuckle that has now been cut down and milled in it also had the holes in it,instal the bearing carrier. beauty huh. yore right about only gaining a 1/2 inch of clearance at the wheel ,if itll lesen camber gain then I dont want to due it, I was thinking it would add negative camber gain. anyone sure what moving the lower strut point inboard would do?? thanks for the post ill try to get some pics up Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest needwaymorespeed Posted February 16, 2001 Share Posted February 16, 2001 randy the original 300 z knuckle is very big and bulky, so im cutting it down to use it sandwiched between the bearing holder and the backplate. definately been giving it some thought on using heim joint for my control arm mount Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 18, 2001 Share Posted February 18, 2001 Isn't Darius running a viscous LSD from a later 300Z? Could someone crawl up under his car and take oh a dozen or so shots of his rear suspension for us? I've seen a few pics of another car done this over at the site that sells the aluminum back braces. Here's where I got mine -> http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest needwaymorespeed Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 Thanks for the pic I know of three cars that have been converted to a r230 rear end,marks-the previous picture, he also posts here, nice guy. Darius and one that isn't on the internet That car belongs to mark-I emailed him about his conversion several months back, what he did is take 4 300 z cv joints to make 2 complete shafts,the stock 300 z shafts have a flange on the inboard side that mounts to the r230 diff the outboard side goes into a splined shaft" would essentially be the stub axle for an older 240-280 z". his car has the inboard flanges on both ends of the cv shaft with a custom flange to allow the outboard side to mount to the stock 240 companion flange. The other car I know of is darius he put u-joint on the outboard ends of his cv shafts then made a adapter plate also What I want to do is shorten the stock 300 z cv shaft and retain the splined end on the outboard side, would be much stronger then our stub axles we currently have,plus five me the 300 z 11.5 inch vented rotors and dual caliper brakes. Worked on it this weekend ,started making the jig and have all the machining work complete on one knuckle. Probly wont get a chance to touch it again for a month now,big projects starting up at work. MARK HOPE ITS ALLRIGHT I POSTED ON YOU'RE CONVERSION Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1fastz Posted March 29, 2002 Share Posted March 29, 2002 how is progres comeing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LT-1 350Z Posted March 30, 2002 Share Posted March 30, 2002 I'm working on the same project. i'm shortening the axles but i want to keep my rear suspension.i was thinking of machining the knuckle to accept something like 85 thru 88 maxima front bearing,hub& outer cv joint it look big enough for the job. this is only a idea ,next week i,m picking all the parts to see how will work.i was just waiting for a extra rear suspension to work on it and yesterday i got the donor car.please if this helps you in any way keep me infor.your idea seem good but i want to keep my 16"enkei 4lug rims. thanks Julio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest needwaymorespeed Posted March 31, 2002 Share Posted March 31, 2002 I have been waiting to have structural analysis done-put on a cad program-waitng on a friend-finally decided to go ahead with out the analysis talking to many sand rail builders they say the design is way overkill for a car that will never be jumped. Have all of the seperate pieces engineered and cut going to have the pieces digitized so that I can have the next pieces laser cut have two guys local waiting on the design going to have them welded together in two weeks-tigged will post pics when done expect about 2-3 weeks Im getting way excited!! Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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