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HybridZ

Diff Strap


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Ha ha ha ha... I know we talked about that Ron, but I think I'd have to pay licensing fees to all the guys that helped figure it out! I think Scottie wants some cash to fund his hobby. And then there's Pete, Ron Tyler... :eek: Gosh the intellectual property laws are a biaatch!

 

I think in the spirit of HybridZ I'll just draw up some measured plans and post them so anyone can get one made (cheap) and customize it as they see fit. Of course, yours is sitting on my work bench with bolts and bushings ready to go buddy! 2thumbs.gif

 

Jon

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Ya that's true but then $5-$10 for parts and $25 for your time is not a profit. I'm sure you make for than $25 an hour without the hard labor. I know I would have paid someone that much to make me one. Saves me the headaches of measurements, drilling, cuting, welding and painting it. Not to mention a trip to the store.

 

BTW, Thanks for making mine, I owe you lunch again. cheers.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

I had a welder friend look at the pictures: He said the weld was incredibly crappy, and at a 90' angle at racing stress you're going to snap the corner soon. Plus, it looks like you welded some extra metal onto the differental moustache bar. I looked at mine and there is no way you are going to get that kind of metal assembly on without major modification, to an already 23 year old piece of metal. I have a project on the back burner-a tech is building my specs as i type. Hopefully it will be better.

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I was sitting this one out, but....

 

... I agree that for this solution to work, the strap needs to be one continuous, bent piece of metal. Also, as I recall from Scottie's pics, his strap was thinner metal and was bolted directly to the diff.

 

IMO, Scottie's would work much better since thinner metal strap will have some give in it allowing for some up and down movement but very much limiting it from stock.

 

Correct me if I'm mistaken about Scottie's diff mount mod, but regardless, the one I am describing would work better, would not require welding or depend on extra rubber.

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Guest Anonymous

Does'nt thin metal thats is allowed to 'give' after a while fail? Wouldn't a thicker one piece bent to suit one be better?

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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It's all a function of yield and ultimate stress/strength/factor of safety and fatigue life. If the one-time stresses in the thin strap go beyond ultimate strength of the material - boom, failure. If the multiple loadings go beyond yield (or even lower) strength enough times, then you could have a fatigue failure. The nice thing about steel over aluminum is that you can design something to have an infinite fatigue life, if the stresses are kept low enough.

 

So yeah, if it yields (stretches) permanently several to many times, it can end up fatigue failing. It's a bad idea to design something like this into a realm where any part of it has permanent set after a max loading.

 

The dynamic loading aspect tends to magnify things, so that's a factor too.

 

Of course, if Scottie were to have seen that strap permanently stretching after a few runs, I'm sure he'd have just made a thicker one. So many things can be "gut" engineered :D .

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Originally posted by theoompaloompa:

I had a welder friend look at the pictures: He said the weld was incredibly crappy, and at a 90' angle at racing stress you're going to snap the corner soon. Plus, it looks like you welded some extra metal onto the differental moustache bar. I looked at mine and there is no way you are going to get that kind of metal assembly on without major modification, to an already 23 year old piece of metal. I have a project on the back burner-a tech is building my specs as i type. Hopefully it will be better.

Did you turn the picture over and show your welder that the other side is also welded. :D I really don’t think it will snap unless you are pushing over 700HP. Of course Jon's welding is going to be crappy compaired to your friends welding, that's probably because your friend does it for a living - LOL. I've never seen anyone who has been welding less then a year and has only welded a few times doing prefect welds especially with a inexpensive welder. Don't forget when you see Jon's car in person, you crawl under the car and point out the crappy weld job because no one else is going to notice it. malebitchslap.gif;)

 

Scottie was using a thinner metal and was running 11’s all day; he never had a problem with his. I think if this were an issue someone would have had this part for sale in their catalog. Some of the Z guy’s are still using the stock strap which is not even metal – amazing.

 

BTW, he didn't weld extra pieces on the mustache bar, that was the first strap he tried out which was a thin metal welded to the diff mount. I think he said he made the current strip because the first strap started stretching because of the thin metal. smile.gif

 

Just my 2Cents rockon.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I've seen ugly welds that still penetrated just fine. The outward appearance of welds provided you have the amperage right is more a art than a necessity.

 

Also consider its easy to be critical when as Ron says you do it for a living. Consider a profesional welder has machines infinitely more powerful and adjustable than your average home machine.

 

Hell I did it for a living for 12 years, and my beads from my home machine in no way match the welds I could lay down with a expensive lincoln Mig welder that I used at work running on 220v and with a huge range of adjustment. I'm sure it'll be fine for the loads involved.

 

BTW Thanks Pete for that explaination, I love this board, so many good engineers to explain things... :D Who knows I could accidently learn something... tongue.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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