Driveshaft fabrication question using JTR flange adapter

[Guest Craig280z]

ok

I searched the archives and didn't find the answer I was looking for. It may have been there and I just didn't understand it.

 

Anyway, I have a 95 LT1 with 4L60E and a Camaro driveshaft and the JTR driveshaft adapter flange.

 

I went to the driveshaft shop with the measurements and told them to fix my driveshaft. They said that they would have to use some kind of mechanical joint to adapt the driveshaft u-joint to the JTR flange u-joint. Is this normal? I thought that the JTR flange adapter would take the "standard" Chevy u-joint size and they would just have to shorten the driveshaft.

 

They are only charging me $70 to do this so it doesn't seem too high to me but is this mechanical joint normal? It was an extra $10 for the mechanical joint.

 

Thanks

Craig

[pparaska]

Craig, I'm confused. They should be able to just put a 1310 series joint in the aft end of the driveshaft, and install the flange on that. Of course, after removing several feet of length from the shaft .

[jeromio]

What's a mechanical ujoint?

 

I have this same issue with my LS1 swap. I went to my local parts counter and he had to fish around until he finally came up with a hybrid ujoint that fit both the Camaro driveshaft and the Neapco adapter. It was rather pricey - $30.

 

I then went downstairs to the machine shop to ask them how to remove the existing (and no fitting) UJoint. Apparently those little 2hite plastic nipples on there are remnants of the plastic that was injected in there - forms a clip that locks the cup to the collars. So I gotta torch both ends and then hammer that joint out. 'Sgonna be tricky.

[Guest Anonymous]

I am confused on this mechanical u joint too. Doesn't the Camaro have "1310" u joints fore and aft???

[Guest Anonymous]

I think this is perfectly normal with Fbody driveshafts mated to the JTR adapter (neapco), the cups on the neapco are smaller and it requires a special u, I had the same deal on my T56 Fbody shaft. Price is about right and actually quite reasonable if its inclusive of the cutting it down, IMHO.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[Guest potterma]

I'm confused.

I thought the point of the JTR flange was to eliminate the need for custom/wierd/smaller stuff??

 

What gives?

[Guest Craig280z]

That's what the problem was.

 

The u-joints in my driveshaft where larger than the u-joint that goes in the JTR adapter flange.

 

I didn't see it but the mechanical joint that he was talking about is just something to adapt the larger u-joint to the smaller u-joint. This was the cheapest way to go.

 

He said he could also do it another way (probably a special u-joint) but it was more expensive initially but probably cheaper in the long run. I don't know why.

 

Anyway, $70 was for everything. He is going to cut my driveshaft, put in the u-joints, put the flange on, and balance it. All I brought him was the long driveshaft and the JTR flange.

 

Having to do this adaptation for u-joint sizes added $10 to my bill. He also said that it was a very normal thing to do for him an I shouldn't have any problems with strength.

 

I was just confused. I also thought that the purpose of the JTR adapter was so that it would fit the Chevy u-joints.

 

Craig

[Guest Anonymous]

$70.00 is really reasonable

[Guest Craig280z]

I thought so too Tomahawk.

 

I have been pretty lucky with this swap (keep fingers crossed). It should be running next week.

 

I found an ASE certified mechanic who is putting the LT1 in and wiring it up and doing my exhaust and it will probably be under $1000 that I owe him when he is finished. He is doing the swap for $700 labor including running the dual exhaust.

 

I told him I could probably find him several more to do if he was interested.

 

His calculations where, about $400 for a normal engine install and add another $200 for having to deal with the conversion stuff and the custom wiring.

 

Craig