Guest scca Posted June 23, 2002 Share Posted June 23, 2002 new subject line to make it easier to find for the Phantomgrip the only drawback so far is no 3rd gear chirp now it just accelerates it used to smoke one tire when i shifted hard to second gear now it chirps and just takes off so i would say it is a definite improvement. i took a corner at the crest of a hill at low speed and stepped on it and could feel one tire unload so its not fully transferring weight (thats where a real LSD or quaiffe would work better I think) but for the $ its a definite improvement so far Jumbo240z has also installed his with similar results (if not better) in straight line performance. but i havent done the required number of "break in" burnouts yet to test it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Dollar for dollar I think the PG was a good purchase. I still fry second gear but that's probably cuz I have more HP than SCCA ( just teasing SCCA) Anyways, it's not a real LSD, but then you're paying 1/3--1/4 the price. I have about 130 miles on it now (60 freeway miles, do those count?) I'll check the fluid for metal and let y'all know. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jwelch Posted July 4, 2002 Share Posted July 4, 2002 Sounds like so far so good with the Phantom Grip. I plan on installing mine soon. Are you guys taking the entire diff. out to add this? SCCA did you have to do any grinding to make yours fit? Thanks Regards, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted July 5, 2002 Share Posted July 5, 2002 Got my little white box from scca today. Can't find any info on the break in requirements. So what's the routine again? As Jwelch asked, do you need to remove the entire diff. for the installation? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted July 5, 2002 Share Posted July 5, 2002 I haven't done mine yet(real soon) but I would think you would have to considering you'll be taking the moustache bar off to get the rear cover off. Removing the half shafts seems to be in order aswell, so there are only 8 more bolts holding the thing in there. I think it would be just as easy to drop it and put it up on the work bench. Not that this is an easy task, but better then being under the car pulling spiders out. I would like to hear how someone that has actually done it, done it though... Did you have to pull the diff.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 Mines up in the air, no gas tank and pretty easy access to everything. Tomorrow has Z written all over it. My only experience comes from chevy, olds rears. Details, please. My dog ate my Z repair manual, really, he did. Looks like a previous post listed the side bearing cap spec @ 65-72 lb/ft. Ls additive? Burnouts required? How come the Phantomgrip website and my directions don't say anything about these? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted July 7, 2002 Share Posted July 7, 2002 So its in. Best to remove rear from car. Pop out stub axles. Remove ring gear. Note l/r and up/down position of side bearing caps. Remove differential unit. Drive out roll pin. Spider gear retaining pin should push out w/finger pressure, at least mine did. Find out Phantom grip is way too tight. I removed matierial from inside of blocks. I don't understand why Phantomgrip doesn't state a clearance. Maybe as long as it isn't metal to metal its cool. Mine has about .7mm between blocks. Found out we already have the strongest spring so don't bother asking about the spring tuning kit. Once the blocks are compressed, pull retainting clip pegs out a bit and use a good quaility small diam. hose clamp to keep the blocks together. as you release tension from your vise or press, keep tightening the clamps until snug. Once in the diff and spider retainting pin is placed, pop off clamps and don't forget to remove the pins. Directions are lame. With all the variables in rear clearances, I'd guess they have their butts covered with a good amount of spring tension. Anyway, now I can run my gas line w/o much in the way while I wait for rear cover gasket and needed axle seals. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0N Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 I was doing trying to do a donut on Jon's (Jumbo240Z) car but made a big donut. There is a difference between my LSD and the phantom grip. My LSD whips you into a donut. I have a feeling Jon's car is over powering the phantom grip. or maybe I have to try the donuts the otherway. It does leave two lonnnggg tire marks when I launched the car. Even though I played with the throttle during the burnout, the phantom grip didn't break loose to one leg. So that's the results on Jon's car. Unfortunately we couldn't do more. We were 3 blocks away from residential area and someone ran out yelling to keep it down. Defiantly worth the Money but not a true LSD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 Note from Phantomgrip today. I mentioned there was no specific figures for block clearance, if any clearance but touching would be OK, and that mine had .7mm. Also asked if ls additive was needed or a specific fluid. Breakin recommendation? Also mentioned mine would be pushing a pretty healthy amount of hp. Reply was friendly and blunt. "Your clearance is fine, whatever fluid worked best for you in the past is fine to use now. Phantomgrip has been tested up to 600hp with great success." No mention of break-in procedure. Where are you guys getting the info? Was it from Pg? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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