mobythevan Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 Has anyone found an adapter for the 300z type round input flange on the diff to chevy type u-joint? I am not interested at this point in swapping the input flange so I can use the neapco adapter. If I can't find anything I will just use a 300z driveshaft to build upon, but someone told me that the u-joint on the 300z driveshaft was welded in?? Anyone have more info on this? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 if you have info on the pilot diameter, the bolt circle diameter, and the bolt hole diameters, you may be able to find one for a 1310 or 1350 u-joint on the spicer site. http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~2~2~ that would work. Then you could have a driveshaft made that used that type u-joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted July 17, 2002 Author Share Posted July 17, 2002 Ok, I went out with the calipers and did some measuring. The numbers I came up with look like spicer part number 2-2-1899 will work. Interesting that I measured the flange dia. to be 4.06 and this part shows 4.08(shouldn't matter?) Also, I measured the pilot dia. to be 1.969 and this part shows 1.968 Its probably a dumb question but will a thousandth matter here? I actually can't tell re-measuring it if it is 1.968 or 1.969 It looks like spicer part number 2-2-1819 matches my measurements closer, but shows a joint angle of 30?? I guess I'll try to order the 1899 part and see how it matches up, unless you have any heads up here. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 The outer diameter difference won't matter. And a thousandth (0.001") is nothing to worry about. Glad you found something that works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted July 18, 2002 Author Share Posted July 18, 2002 After talking to the local driveline place I had them order the spicer 2-2-1819 part. I'll post the results. If he can't get that part he is going to order the 2-2-1899. We'll see what fits and I'll let you guys know. The differences between these two parts seem trivial. He explained that the joint angle listed should be the maximum angle allowed for the u-joint not to bind. He wasn't sure why they listed 0 angle for the 1899 part unless there chart was missing info. Both of these parts use the 1310 series u-joint. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted July 23, 2002 Author Share Posted July 23, 2002 I got the 2-2-1819 part in yesterday and tried it out last night. Fits great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 Cool! This is great info for anyone that finds a 300ZX LSD and doesn't want to swap the flange or try to find the flange that goes with the JTR spec'd flange! Of course, you'll need to clearance or remove the crossmember, but with a Ron Tyler type front diff mount that's not a problem! Way to go! This is FAQ material, jeromio! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted July 24, 2002 Author Share Posted July 24, 2002 I like that mount that Ron Tyler made. I am sure I will do something similar. what do you think about cutting and removing the center of the origional diff mount. I would only keep each end to support the swing arm but do away completely with the middle. Do you think this would affect the stability for supporting the swing arm? I would incorporate a safety feature so that if the diff rubber mount broke, the front of the diff would be supported. This makes my life simple if I can just cut the origional front diff mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 I just have a gut feel for this, but it seems that keeping something between the mount points is a good idea. I realize that there's a desire to get exhaust clearance, but how about this idea: Cut out the center section, between the control arm mount points, leaving enough material to add a shallower section back between them. If you make this piece out of square or rectangular tubing, with the shallow dimension vertical, you could connect the tow pieces you cut off the ends of the crossmember, leave a bunch of room below the new piece between them, and provide a safety "catch" for the bottom of the diff nose to rest on if the mount broke (I doubt you could break the urethane mount though.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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