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Batt. cable length.


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I'm having problems starting my car when it at operating temp. It cranks real slow like the battery is dead. Even if someone trys to jump me it will still be just as hard to crank, I usaully have to bump start it. I have backed off the timing, I just put a new battery in (1000 CA), I have checked the alternator and its charging, I have a new high TQ starter . I bought a new battery (825 CA)last year and only had this problem when I had the timing bumped up or if it was running hot. I'm thinking the problem could be caused by the battery being to far from the starter but why would it just be starting to happen now. The battery has been relocated to the trunk from the get go.

 

How far can the battery be from the starter? I not sure what gauge wire it is but I'm sure it thick enough.

 

Thanks Tom

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If you put the battery farther away, you need larger battery cables. And don't depend on the shell of the Z to be a great conductor of electricity. Steel, even lots of it will drop considerable voltage.

 

Starter heat soak is a problem, and as Dan said the remote solenoid helps. But getting a sheild between the hot stuff (headers and head pipe) and the starter helps too.

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This kind of thing has come up before - and guys note this is an RX7 icon_smile.gif

 

When the starter gets hot it's harder to crank. Research I've done seems to point to a hot starter needing more juice and that the GM solenoid not performing as well hot. Remote mounting a Ford solenoid has cured this for many people. I don't understand why mind you but for the $15 it cost me I'm doing it! I'm using a solenoid from an '88 5.0 Mustang myself.

 

Heat wrap is another suggestion but airrflow is an even better one. Get as much air space around the starter as possible. You've said something abut a high TQ starter - is it an OEM or aftermarket starter? I've never had a warm fuzzy about aftermarket starters after seeing so many people have problems with them. As a result I'm running an OEM starter on my car. However it's not yet been heat tested so I can't say that it makes a big difference - just know that not all aftermarket starters are created equal (shrug).

 

Oh, and run good cabling. Stereo shops and welding supply stores have the good stuff, welding cable migh thave a more abrasion resistant jacket though - I'm not sure. Make sure the starter has a good ground - I'll be running a few to mine.

 

Good luck, please let us know what the solution ends up being! icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

One of the big problems with aftermarket

'mini' or 'gear reduction' starters is they don't support the drive gear on both ends like the OEM starters do, this leads to increased wear and eventual failure (and they're obviously more expensive, although some of the OEM ones may actually be pricier). They do put out the cranking horsepower though, no question about that and if you've got a engine that has alot of compression, it might be your only choice. (like in racing applications.)

 

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

I think this may be the problem, because when I first finished my project it was Oct. which is alot cooler than the weather we have been having now. I think summit carries a heat blanket for starters maybe I will try this.

 

Thanks, Tom

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