Guest Luigi Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 I did a search. Got 37 hits. Still kinda foggy. I installed Ross C's CV adapters. It seemed that there was 1 axle that was longer than the other. I looked, measured, looked somemore, picked what I thought was the shortest one put it on the pass. side. No problems. I was able to bolt the shaft up and "float" the axle in & out. I put the other shaft in the drivers side. Bolted it up. It wouldn't move at all so......Since I had 2 sets of turbo axles I used another (the other) short axle on the drivers side. It "floated" fine. I bolted it all up. Worked fine. Are the axles 2 different lengths? Could it have been a problem with my axle? anyone else have this kinda problem. I'm trying to get ready for the Ga. event. thanks for the help Luigi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdab Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 Another question I wanted to know while we are on the subject.... Is there any difference between the CV axles from Turbo cars or NA(2+2) cars or are all CV's in the ZX's the same? Luigi are you saying you used the short axle from each pair and it worked? I also have 2 pairs of CV axles. I'm sure 1 of the pairs is from an '83 turbo. The other pair looks the same and are the same size, but I have no idea what model they came off of. I will be getting the CV adapters from Ross in the next week or so and I want to make this as painless as possible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 The Passenger side is a total of 13/16" longer than the drivers side (1/2" on the axle itself, and 5/16" on the stub portion). The 1/2" is in reality the only difference in length once they are installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 You have to use the axles in their correct positions, ie, longer one on the right and shorter on the left - the short one will not engage the snap ring inside the right hole of the diff, and will come loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 Thanks Terry and Rick, Do you know of any difference between the CV's on Turbo cars vs. N/A cars? I thought for a while that CV axles only came on Turbo ZX's, but I have seen an N/A 2+2 in a bone yard and it had CV's? I think it was an '82. Anyone? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 9, 2003 Share Posted January 9, 2003 The Turbo 280ZX and most later model 260 and 280(if not all) 2+2 Zs had the CV jointed shafts. The NA 280ZX did not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Luigi Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 Yeah, I used 2 "short" axles. I posted 'cause I wasn't sure that there was/is a short and a long. I checked the axles and they seem to move through the range easily. I didn't pull 'em all apart (I will next weekend) to see if there was something up with the ones I have. Just wondering what others experience was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Luigi Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 Hey Rick, I met you in Ala. pretty car. Nice dude you are. OK just for the record. To me right is pass. side and left is drivers side. Is this what you mean? this is cool to know because (if it works) I have another set of axles. Did any of you guys (and girls) take the axles apart? I have the manual and it looks like a pain in the ass. thanks luigi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 I've taken the end off one side to replace a boot. Basically, the joint slips over the splined axle. I don't recal a circlip on the end or not (may have been there, but I don't remember). The most notable thing was the end of the axle is peened after the joints are slipped onto the axle. This peening expands the splined area just enough so that the joint will not easily slide back off (I used a press to push the axle out). After the boot was swapped and before I re-assembled it, I ground the immediate area around the peened part of the axle just enough so that the axle would slip back into the joint, and then I re-peened it. The other boot was in good shape, so I did not have to disassemble it (thank goodness, because it looked a good bit more complicated to do). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 10, 2003 Share Posted January 10, 2003 Right, right is the passenger side of the car. I've also had CVs apart - as Blueovalz says, the acual CVs are pressed, then peened on. The boots' metal sleeves have to be crimped on. I was just talking to an axle rebuilder who says that there is a tool for this crimping. By the way, I'm looking for a source for replacement CV joints for the ZX Turbo axles. The factory ones are hideously expensive! I think I'll start a separate thread on this. Luigi, are you coming to the Reynolds SEZSII? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 11, 2003 Share Posted January 11, 2003 NAPA quoted me a price two days ago for $80/side with a $30 core charge (entire half/shaft). Sounds reasonable to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 11, 2003 Share Posted January 11, 2003 Looks as if I've been freqenting the wrong parts stores. I'll check NAPA today. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 11, 2003 Share Posted January 11, 2003 $80 i found them online from shucks.com for $65 plus core. 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Luigi Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 Update: I pulled the axles out to install limited slip and noticed that the side seal on the drivers side of the diff. was a bit chewed up. It (what ever got it) didn't destroy the seal rather the outer dust lip. Could this be a result of the wrong axles? from what you guys say the short is on the drivers side and this is the side that seems to have issues. I dunno. whenever something like this happens I go back to the basics. But in this case, all the stuff under the car, control arms, bushings, and struts are stock. I do have 240 uprights but 280 stub axles. I'm a wee bit puzzled. I'll look again tonite and see if it clicks. thanks for all your help. the pictures let me know that I did use 2 short axles. am I correct in thinking that the axles should have a bit of movement in them when installed? luigi man, I am tired of typing the word axle I seem to wanna spell it axel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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