Robert Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Hi, I would like to start with saying Ive searched, tried and failed.. I have a L24E 1987 model with MSII extra. But I cant get the VR sensor to give me a proper signal.. Ive tried Adjusting the pots as the manual says, with no luck... Has anyone done this before? Its the VR sensor in the dizzy im using... Thanks ** L24E ALL stock with a T04E turbo aiming for 300Whp** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Is the distributor timing locked out? Also, could you please post a copy of your MSQ file? I'd like to check the settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Hi, I think I kmight have found the problem, interesting that you replied here, couse I was just about to send you a mail! You see, I have a V3.57 from you, and I found that I have 5V at the tach select jumper! So I started troubleshooting, and I figured it had to be A: A short or B: D24.. A quick test of D24 gave the answer, it had .8Kohm one way, and 1.8 the other. So this must be my problem.. So the question is, is there a diode, same as D24, that can be unsoldered from a un-used spot on the board and used on D24? As far as megatune settings goes (D24 broke after I tried and failed with my VR in), Ive used basic trigger and trigger return with little or no luck. Ive also tried inverting the signal both mechanical and with jumpers, still no luck. In the end I think ill replace the 3.57 with a good old 3.0, and call it a day.. PS - yes the dizzy is locked, but cant see why it mathers when RPMs are 0? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Well, I was just wondering if you were controlling the timing or not. Depending on how you have the board jumpered, it can sometimes have 5 volts at tach select until it sees a pulse. You could remove D1 or D2 and use it in that slot though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 Well, I was just wondering if you were controlling the timing or not. Depending on how you have the board jumpered, it can sometimes have 5 volts at tach select until it sees a pulse. You could remove D1 or D2 and use it in that slot though. Thanks, Ill do that and try. I guess you agree that d24 is broken? But I dont think replacing it will help, and if not, any ideas? The best result ive had was a 1700rpm peak droping to 0 in 1 sec.. The car was cranking all the time ~300 rpm... Pots turned all the way... Sorry for not uplloading MSQ,but my tuning computer is in my garage.. I doo control ignition though, single coil dizzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Hard to say without my having checked it directly. How's the MS work on a Stim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hard to say without my having checked it directly. How's the MS work on a Stim? To make a long story about not to let people borrow your stuff, I dont have a stim anymore........ Grr.. He`s doing a more intense search tomorrow, if no luck Ive directed him to your website But lets assume the worst, any ideas without a stim? I do measure a .4V signal AC at cranking... Oh, I just kmight have come over a 3.0 board, and with some luck Ill get to modify it and try it in a couple of days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 You could check to see if you're getting a signal at the J1 jumper, using a LED tester. We'd probably pull out the oscilloscope at this stage, but I figure those are rarer out there than Stimulators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 You could check to see if you're getting a signal at the J1 jumper, using a LED tester. We'd probably pull out the oscilloscope at this stage, but I figure those are rarer out there than Stimulators. Not to mention more expensive..... Ill give it a try, I Imagine it will be a flashing light can be expected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 That's correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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