Robert

Its not the valve clearence, but if they make noice, you should adjust them, but thats not your problem. First things first,check your timing, and then your ignition system (plugs, dis cap). If you have problems getting high rpms (3500+), the dizzy could be broken, have seen this quite a few times. Either ignition module or excessive shaft play causes misfires, and the inability to reach high RPMs. If none of the above helps you, you could try going through the FSM. The FI system generally is very reliable, but shure, sometimes they fail. but most times, the problems are the easy stuff, like a part clogged fuel filter.

Thanks, Ill check my pumps later on!

I have 2 different oil pumps laying around, and I was told that one of them was the high flow turbo pump. There are some numbers stamped on the side, and they are different, but does someone know if they can identify the pump? The reason I want a high flow pump, is that Ive installed a turbo on my NA engine, and I want to install a oil cooler as well, increasing the need for more flow.

Id say its every time, and gets worse the harder my driving is. Thats why Im afraid its cylinder pressure... Changing radiator caps did not help

NGK has always served me well. I once had a high strung rallycross engine, that would not run for more then minutes on the often so good Denso plugs. But some random NGK plugs went fine a whole race weekend.

I did test it without finding leaks before I stripped the engine, but shure, I could try again, hard to believe its the head gasket or cyl head..

I recently overhauled my engine. Metal head gasket, flat cyl head. But when Im driving, and especially under boost, the coolant overflows into the overflow tank! Is there any "typical" reason for this, except the obvious head gasket or cyl head? L24E T4 Turbo 23PSI boost HKS head gasket HKS SR20det high flow 63C thermostat No overheating, except when the water goes low (takes about 30miles with some fun road driving) Any good ideas? This was one of the reasons I overhauled, the cyl head is swapped for one that I know works, and Its straight.

Yea, the IATs cant be compared, I live in a cold country.... Thats probably one of the reasons Im running more aggressive on the spark, but there could be many. I have no knock problems, so I wont change it any time soon. Typical IATs here is less then half of yours by the way. Wrong forum, yea. Ill delete and rewrite.

If this is true, then a very rich mixture could help on knock.. I have the problem myselfe.. Interesting. But was this test performed on a running engine? Im just thinking, If its just the intake he tested, then this has little interest, cause if nothing stops the flow, theres no pressure build up in the manifold, and ofcourse #1 gets less then the rest......Is there a link to the rest of the testing? Or maybee a solution? First thing I could think of was cutting the fuel rail in half, and increasing fuel pressure on #4-6 compared to 1-3...

First off, as said before, the problem is not there when the internals are cool, first after some hard runs. AF VS Knock depends greatly on spark advance. Less spark and less fuel can give the same power. Knock is simply that the "peak" of the detonation comes before TDC. A lean mixture burns faster, so you would need less spark. Add more fuel, and you can add more spark. If it gives more power has been discussed for ages. I think so though. Anyways, hope you see my point. Theres no "the rich or lean for that engine". I cant pull any boost, but I can add fuel. AF goal table is added as an attatchment. As you can see, Im trying to get 11.5, Im just not there yet, cause Ive only had a few miles of tuning before this knock problem came to my attention. If you read the whole thread, youll understand more. Also added is my spark table. You may review it, but again, thats probably not where the problems are though, cause then the knock would be instant, not only after emptying one or two gears, and even if it was after emptying some gears, and the IAT went sky high, it WOULD NOT be as extreme (it sounds like the pistons hit the ground!! Worst Ive ever heard!) Edit: As you can see from the AF table, the AFs are richening up more and more from 12-11.5 from 180 to 260KPA (~12-28 PSI). This should be good. IAT retard will be enabled if needed. Ill start looking at my problems today, and see where I end up.

Moving to new forum

Nope. If we go extreme, you probably cant run a 600bhp engine with 40PSI, but Im tempted to try close to 30 on this ~8.5:1 if I can fix my cooling.

AFs are down to low 12s and 11s without maxing the injectors out, so YES!

The knock comes mid range, but probalby at any RPM with boost. I live in a cold place, 70F out temperatures. The highest EVER datalogged IAT temp Ive seen here is ~95F (35C). Big intercoolers that get air is the best Btw a water injection system is currently being assembled as another anti knock solution. Like stated before, Ill check back in when Ive tried the cap and water wetter. Shure, IAT will be connected, Ill datalog a bunch of gears for you.

Sandblast, or use a steel brush grinder and see how they look when the rust is of. But as others mentioned, the surface must be smooth, so If the surface is rough, you must use some fine paper to smooth things out. On a side note, I ordered pads directly from Nissan motorsports, and they were very quick to ship out some excellent looking pads..