HowlerMonkey Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 That's enough compression to run it so might as well hook it up, run it, and you might find everything is ok. At the very least, you can use that engine to get the rest of the hook-up issues done and then replace the long block as a unit knowing the new unit will start right up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spawpoet Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 That's enough compression to run it so might as well hook it up, run it, and you might find everything is ok. At the very least, you can use that engine to get the rest of the hook-up issues done and then replace the long block as a unit knowing the new unit will start right up. +1. Especially if this motor hasn't run in awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 those are high numbers for a turbo engine. if the engine has not run for a while then a little rust or crap could have got stuck on the #1 and #6 valves, which will lower the cranking pressure. I would run it to see how it does. Look at the back sides of the valves with the manifolds off, if they all look the clean, then run it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 That's enough compression to run it so might as well hook it up, run it, and you might find everything is ok. At the very least, you can use that engine to get the rest of the hook-up issues done and then replace the long block as a unit knowing the new unit will start right up. My friend with a big block Drag nova told me the same thing about its enough compression and i wont see much of a difference in performance either.. so i think im gonna go that route, If anything iv been hearing alot of good about that ENGINE Restore oil additive and ill give it a try after i get it running! By any chance, can i use the stock N/A coil already wired into the car, cause i guess i cut the harness for the turbo one and now i have no idea how im supposed to hook it up because theirs no plug and thats what i have the diagram for..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 The coil/transistor unit from the 280zx turbo is different. If you cannot get this, you can use a Z31/maxima/pathfinder VG30 coil/transistor unit but you will also need the connectors and spend some time making sure the wires go to the proper places by comparing both manuals. I did this and used that tiny resistor/condensor unit from the later cars on my 1981 280zx turbo system. These parts litter the junkyards of america and are cheap. The resistor/diode unit looks like an unused connector with no hole to plug in another connector. The fact that there are a different amount of terminals on the coil/transistor unit from later cars will require a bit of head scratching until you find that the original zx turbo unit actually branches off the 12v inside the transistor to send to the coil internally before the transistor circuitry acts on it. I'll try to give a hand but it will have to be tonight because I am busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 The coil/transistor unit from the 280zx turbo is different. If you cannot get this, you can use a Z31/maxima/pathfinder VG30 coil/transistor unit but you will also need the connectors and spend some time making sure the wires go to the proper places by comparing both manuals. I did this and used that tiny resistor/condensor unit from the later cars on my 1981 280zx turbo system. These parts litter the junkyards of america and are cheap. The resistor/diode unit looks like an unused connector with no hole to plug in another connector. The fact that there are a different amount of terminals on the coil/transistor unit from later cars will require a bit of head scratching until you find that the original zx turbo unit actually branches off the 12v inside the transistor to send to the coil internally before the transistor circuitry acts on it. I'll try to give a hand but it will have to be tonight because I am busy. I have the ZX turbo unit, i just need to figure out what wires go where..ha and what kind of tolerance can they take before they go bad, because mine got pretty banged up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 Caveat Emptor, my friend. There's a reason it's spoken in Latin; it's one of the oldest rules everyone eventually learns. Hope everything goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 Caveat Emptor, my friend. There's a reason it's spoken in Latin; it's one of the oldest rules everyone eventually learns. Hope everything goes well. yeah i know, iv already learned that. I was gonna originally pay 500 for it, but because the starter seized up i couldn't do a compression test, so i offered 300 for everything and he went for it, soo i still saved 200 bucks so i cant argue that much.. ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Yellow white wire goes from ecu to the terminal on the transistor that runs longways on the connector and the black white wire goes from the key switch to feed 12v to the setup on the terminal that is perpendicular to the length of the connector. The blue wire off the negative side of the coil goes through a resistor (not all cars) and then to the body harness eventually ending up at the tach. The other wire off the positive side of the coil and goes through the condensor and ends up being grounded to the body......many times by a coil/transistor assembly bracket bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 Yellow white wire goes from ecu to the terminal on the transistor that runs longways on the connector and the black white wire goes from the key switch to feed 12v to the setup on the terminal that is perpendicular to the length of the connector. The blue wire off the negative side of the coil goes through a resistor (not all cars) and then to the body harness eventually ending up at the tach. The other wire off the positive side of the coil and goes through the condensor and ends up being grounded to the body......many times by a coil/transistor assembly bracket bolt. thanks, ill have to print that out..ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Careful with that wire off the positive side. It goes to a condensor but I believe it may only be for noise suppression. Under no circumstances should it not go through a cap if it goes to ground since it the 12v feed side of the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 yeah i know, iv already learned that. I was gonna originally pay 500 for it, but because the starter seized up i couldn't do a compression test, so i offered 300 for everything and he went for it, soo i still saved 200 bucks so i cant argue that much.. ha Ah very good then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 success!!! i wired up the coil and the fuel pump, and gave it a crank, what do u know it started right up. but for some reason it only ran on Cyl 1 and 2. but before i knew it, it was on all 6. but i don't have a down pipe so its running kinda rich, but i managed to hang the o2 sensor behind the turbo, and it helped a little for some reason.. w/e just a temporary fix.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Sweet.........injectors gum up on those engines. Engine heat will unstick most but some injectors don't like their connector and the vibrations cause them to get better contact after a minute of the engine shaking around on 3 cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Sweet.........injectors gum up on those engines. Engine heat will unstick most but some injectors don't like their connector and the vibrations cause them to get better contact after a minute of the engine shaking around on 3 cylinders. yeah that makes sences, i had a fealing the problem was in fuel. cause when i tested for spark, every plug shocked the Sh*% out of me. ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 yeah that makes sences, i had a fealing the problem was in fuel. cause when i tested for spark, every plug shocked the Sh*% out of me. ha Replaced the injectors with skyline rb20 one my friend had laying around, kinda ghetto looking but it worked beautifully! started her up and sounded amazing! but now i got a new problem, i keep blowing up the fuel line before the filter in the engine bay, problem lies in the FPR so im gonna get a shiny adjustable one. my radiator started leaking too so im gonna replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Id get a stock one to make sure thats the problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Also........ask the guy at the parts store for a length of "fuel injection hose" and compare it to the hose you currently have. Many car fires are started by people putting low pressure hose on an injected car. Of course a stuck regulator will net you 90psi or so.......but injection hose should handle it no problem. Still..........definately get the pressure correct so you have consistent fuel pressure which will make tuning easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livin9it2up1 Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 the regulator thats on it now came off my NA motor, i just put it on too get it started, but for some reason it jams itself shut sometimes. It seams like all the fuel lines need to be replaced so im gonna do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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