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WizardBlack

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WizardBlack last won the day on May 12 2014

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About WizardBlack

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 05/11/1977

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    Marysville, Ohio, USA

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  1. Is it the same as a 280Z? I have one of those...
  2. Bend it cold and slow over the appropriate radius.
  3. Look on the SAU forum or somesuch where they get tons of RB's. Where are you getting an RB25 turbo that is not all messed up?
  4. Stance are a somewhat bargain suspension maker. The only thing you have to be careful of is getting the correct rates for an S30. If you want good stuff, get ahold of Arizona Z car. Buy once, cry once.
  5. You are just aiming to barely see some thread left when it gets tight.
  6. I think the menu bar at the top has a "More" pulldown that includes a donation link. http://forums.hybridz.org/donate/
  7. Sounds good! I recall it sitting decently as well, but now I have to do it with a Q45 diff, etc.
  8. Well, I'd suspect that your 2JZ engine is less likely to be caned to death by previous owners since it's auto, but no guarantees of course. Service parts for the 2JZ have to be cheaper since it's a USA powerplant. I have my RB essentially swapped, but I could not get a single McKinney mount to work; he sent me three different ones and none worked. I have to fab my own. 2JZ owners can attest but I was under the impression that it was actually a pretty easy swap to physically fit in there. Standalone choices are better on a 2JZ. You can get an AEM and have plenty of ability to swap maps with o
  9. Don't use anything else for level as it doesn't matter. Just assume the flange on the diff is perpendicular to the 0* line for the diff and you should be able to use the shield on the trans if it isn't borked for that side or else something other than that. If the trans is off, you could use your angle finder on the front flange and compare it to the output shield to figure if its offset at all and then put that in your calculations. You can then use those two numbers (or three if you need an adjustment on the trans output shroud) to get your trans mount and engine mount shims dialed in to a
  10. I am not looking for exact fuel settings or anything. I just want to confirm that I have a map with the proper CAS settings, etc.
  11. The 280 is undoubtedly heavier. If you strip the car down just to the shell (as I have) I think you will find that it is still heavier for the reasons listed above (longer frame rails, thicker metal, reinforced firewall at pedals, etc.). If you run a track car, I would assert that most of that (marginal) weight difference is in things that are an advantage. The balance of the weight difference is in powertrain (EFI, etc.), bumpers (most remove them), etc. If you are going to have a bone stock car, you probably don't worry about the weight. Otherwise most of the weight can be either removed or
  12. I will be doing the same thing. It's a lot cheaper as well. I cut an 8-point out of mine to repair floor pans (and the install was crappy) so I can reinstall a cage later. My 8 point cage turned out to be 72 pounds as DOM.
  13. And some previous threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90172-surge-tank-placement/?hl=%2Bswirl+%2Bpot&do=findComment&comment=855580 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104550-fuel-surge-tankswirl-pot/?hl=%2Bswirl+%2Bpot
  14. And to illustrate open discharge flow rates...
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