BLKMGK Posted September 18, 2000 Share Posted September 18, 2000 Oh yeah! I just test drove the 240 with the full DynaMatinsulation done. I've nto quite got it 100% put back together but from the spin up the block I'd say it's MUCH quieter. No more road rumble, not much of anything in the way of noise except the exhaust out the back. I'm now wondering if I can get some damping on the rear hatch My advice, if you're going to be puling the interior anyway, is to do it! Added maybe 15lbs to the car but made it much more quiet. I've got the stuff in the doors, rear quarters, all over the floor etc. etc. But the DynaMat trunk kit, get a wallpaper wodden roller, use a heatgun to heat it up, and go nuts. I believe you'll be most happy with the results I am! Oh yeah, still getting some exhaust fumes but I think 99% of that is from the old stock gas filler I've yet to plug. That and the hole going under the car to the old tank which has been replaced with a cell. If plugging those and venting the cell properly doesn't solve the exhaust smell I'm going to be having fun tracking down the source of the leak... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted September 20, 2000 Share Posted September 20, 2000 Dynamat is great stuff! I used it in my 240 last year. Its in the rear mostly and under the headliner. My car doesnt ring anymore! WOO HOO. I have yet to do the doors. You can also put some near the lock in the hatch under that innterior panel. I put some in there because the lock rattled from my stereo. Evan PS i cant reccomend this mod enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 20, 2000 Author Share Posted September 20, 2000 Headliner and hatch are the only areas I really didn't do. Was the headliner worth that much? I've got a cage now so pulling it would be a bear but I'm curious. Previous owner used silicone to put the rear hatch trim on so that may wait awhile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clint78z Posted September 21, 2000 Share Posted September 21, 2000 Try the pink insulation in the antenna panel might cut exhaust droning more and that carpet underlay under the carpet . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 21, 2000 Share Posted September 21, 2000 quote: Originally posted by clint78z: Try the pink insulation in the antenna panel might cut exhaust droning more and that carpet underlay under the carpet . The pink stuff?? interesting thought, I've been wondering what I could put in their that wouldn't hang onto moisture (not sure if anything will do that) but more importantly could be removed if need be for some future work. FWIW, I used two materials in the front half of my car so far with v. good results. I used to have a lot of tranny tunnel heat etc, ebrake would get quite hot (hard to touch!) etc and legs would get toasty. I first used 'Proform' heat insulation (6"x24" strips) which was v. adhesive and seamed like a thin metal layer (ie. v. heavy tinfoil) with the usual peel/stick glue layer on it. Put one layer of this down on all surfaces from rear of seats to 12" up the firewall. Then one layer of their 'sound' pads (not sheets, figured I'd never agree on how to cut it, so bought 12" squares) which are black/rubber tiles w/ peel/stick adhesive. Made a huge difference, I've yet to get to doing the back of my car though. Heat and sound are cut down tremendously and main noise now is from exhaust droning in rear and coming thru hatch IMO. In hindsight I'd of put two layers of heat stuff up front it was so effective that w/2 I'd guess there would be no noticeable heat entry. I know Proform was quite a bit cheaper than Dynamat, I spent under $120US so far at jobber pricing(don't recall dynamat pricing but it was high for me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 23, 2000 Share Posted September 23, 2000 I'd be wary of the pink stuff holding onto moisture too... maybe you could use polystyrene (styrofoam) insulation if you wanted to be sure it wouldn't hold on to water. After doing the 1200mile trip in the new Z, I -=+definately+=- will be doing some sound deadening FAST. BLKMGK, what did the dynamat kit cost you? ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 24, 2000 Author Share Posted September 24, 2000 Cost was $129 from Summit. I ordered their "trunk kit" and it did nearly the whole car! Actually, I've got a bit left over. I bought some of the spray stuff in cans too - not sure it's worth it. Do consider maybe doing it differently. Price out the Dynamat "Extreme" seems to be the best stuff - it's foil coated and super sticky. If you've got bad noise problems that stuff ought to really fix it! Don't buy their roller - goto the local home store and buy a wodden roller for wallpaper It should be about $6 cheaper. Use a heatgun - this is nearly a must to get it down well. Clean the surfaces very well too - I went ahead and ran over soem crud and it still works great so don't go nuts. The heat insulation in Summit and Jegs is probably better than what I used but I spent only abut $12 at Home Depot on mine The only real noise I'm getting now is in the rear a bit. I've still got panels to put back so that may fix it. I'm holding off on the panels as I'm going to try and wire the running light to blink as a turn signal in conjunction with the rear signal. A little pink Corning is going to go in there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 24, 2000 Share Posted September 24, 2000 uh.. wouldn't styrofoam just squeak a whole lot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jason Posted October 3, 2000 Share Posted October 3, 2000 Fiberglass house insulation has long been the standard for stuffing speaker enclosures to absorb unwanted waves in the box. I was thinking of using either this or egg crate foam in addition to some Dynamat like product for my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 3, 2000 Share Posted October 3, 2000 quote: Originally posted by dewzenol: uh.. wouldn't styrofoam just squeak a whole lot? Heh, yeah I can't even stand to have a styrofoam cooler in a car with me... Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 28, 2000 Share Posted October 28, 2000 Guys, Dynamat is pretty good stuff but I, too, have always found it pricey and apt to come loose in the Alabama heat. Vertical surfaces were not good. Maybe it was bad install on my part. I just ended up having a polyurethane rubber bed lining material sprayed in my Z floor and hatch after I stripped the tar mats and cleaned it. It really quiets things down AND seals moisture away from the metal. I am really pleased with the results. It is tough as nails, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted October 28, 2000 Share Posted October 28, 2000 Hey Craig? What did the bedliner run you for the whole car $$$? Sounds like a viable alternative, as long as you aren't planning on doing any welding, etc. after its put in. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 1, 2001 Share Posted January 1, 2001 Idealz, did you place any sort of underlay between the carpet and the sprayon bedliner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 1, 2001 Share Posted January 1, 2001 Not at this point. Right now my carpet is shot. I just run the car with only the worn out carpet in the passenger area. The hatch is bare except for the bedliner material. The material I chose was "Bullhide" and it has a very smooth finish. It is not abrasive or gritty like other brands. They can apply a bit of a raised surface to help out but I figured it didn't matter under carpet. It is more than Dynamat but it is also more permanent. I would do some serious rust prep before having it sprayed. POR15 or Corroless would be great. In hindsight, I would probably weld up all but just a few of those drain holes before spraying it. This stuff will never come up! That can be seen as bad or good. I think it is good. I plan on using some sound deadening paste made by Cascade Engineering for the vertical surfaces. You spread it on like bondo and, when it dries, it just sticks. This is trick because it conforms to all irregular surfaces. It is also a good thing to fill the antenna panel. I want to put a speaker in there But, why not use a very heavy trash bag and then fill it with that spray can expanding foam. It will then mold itself to the cavity and you can form it as you want. Just my thought. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted January 1, 2001 Author Share Posted January 1, 2001 More info on the Cascade stuff plz! I like the idea for the speaker too but I'm pondering a speaker box that could be built by the tailights instead. This way the speakers fire forward instead of to the sides. Damping that area with a bag filled with foam is a great idea though! Just have to make sure the stuff won't melt the bag and make sure that it won't get punctured as it expands. Also, If you're sealing the car's floor airtight and it's dry - just how important is rust prep? Seems to me it might not be able to get anymore oxygenmoisture to continue the rust process. I really like your bedliner idea BTW. I'd have tried it if the car's interior were still apart! Can you post any pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted January 2, 2001 Share Posted January 2, 2001 Found some Dynomat substitute from JC Whitney, but costs a lot less. I used it on my car, and it worked great. It's 32"X 54" sheet, for $24.99. It has a self stick adhesive backing, like Dynomat. I used 2 sheets and have some left over. Part # 12RH5514A ------------------ http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 2, 2001 Share Posted January 2, 2001 Cascade Audio Engineering makes the stuff and it comes in a 1 gallon or 5 gallon quantity. They also make the conventional sheet type products. The car audio mags rated it better than Dynamat about a year ago. The prices are just as high, though I think the URL is www.cascadeaudioengineering.com. It used to be sold online at http://www.sounddomain.com I just figure rust prep is a good thing in a Z car. You can't do it too much. There is no longer water hitting my floorboards except from underneath. Remember that bass from subs is uni-directional so direction doesn't matter. Direction and placement only matters with higher frequencies. You can see pics of the stuff at our website <a href="http://www.ideal-z.com">Ideal-Z</a> in the howto section. The pics are of my car. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg SmileZ Posted February 9, 2001 Share Posted February 9, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Mike kZ: Found some Dynomat substitute from JC Whitney, but costs a lot less. I used it on my car, and it worked great. It's 32"X 54" sheet, for $24.99. It has a self stick adhesive backing, like Dynomat. I used 2 sheets and have some left over. Part # 12RH5514A Has anyone used the "Plain Wrap" brand I see at auto swap meets? Alot cheaper, but equal. I know you get what you pay for, but Dynomat is exepnsive. Thanks.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 21, 2001 Share Posted February 21, 2001 Take a look at http://www.b-quiet.com, 90sq ft roll for $100, they have sound deadening paste also (like the Cascade stuff). Or for individual sheets exactly like dynamat or Cascade v-blok go to www.mcmaster.com and look up viscoelastic (v-blok) or hi temp mastic (dynamat). (Jim, I editted the URL so it'd work. Pete) [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited February 21, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 22, 2001 Author Share Posted February 22, 2001 Heh, it's sounding liek I should've asked aorund here before I bough tth eDynamat stuff as some of the other options are pretty attractive and cheaper. I REALLY like the bedliner idea but the interior is in now and I'm NOT going to yank it apart again if I can help it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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