Cutlass372 Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Hey everyone, I just installed the Pertronix ignitor and flamethrower coil on my 72 240z. Everything was running ok before I replaced the ignitor and now it wont rev past 4k. I haven't checked the timing yet, but I dont think that would be far off as it was running ok earlier. When it hits 4 to 4.5k its like it hits a rev limiter and backfires. I disconnected the BR and put a wire in between the 2 that were coming off it (with 2 male connectors). Everything else is still connected like the condensor and stuff. Where do I look? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted May 20, 2009 Author Share Posted May 20, 2009 So the timing was almost fully retarded, so I advanced it a little at a time and It wanted to be fully advanced. I got it to rev to like 6k in neutral and 5.5-6k under load, but it still doesn't rev freely through its range. Where should I look now? I still have the condensors hooked up, so maybe I should take them off? What do you suggest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted May 23, 2009 Author Share Posted May 23, 2009 So I checked the timing and moved it to where it wanted to be, reved it up and the idle jumps and stays at 1500. When this happens it makes the timing off again (maybe cause the increase in RPMs? Also I broke off the distributor hold down bolt and now it need a new one.. Anyone have an extra one they would want to possibly donate for the cost of shipping (72 2.4L)? It would certainly help me out. Where should I look to fix these problems? The car reved up much better, but seemed to get stuck around 6k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Check you spark plugs. They may have gotten slightly fouled and it can cause a similar issue. It happened to me recently. As for it staying up in rpm after revving it... clean and lube your throttle linkage and also make sure your choke isn't getting stuck. The timing change as rpm increases is normal. There is a mechanical advance and a vacuum advance that affect it. Always check timing at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 So I got the part that I needed (and replaced the plugs), tried to set the timing and it still doesnt seem right. When driving I get to around 4500 rpms and the car starts to cut in and out. It goes up in rpm, but it is very choppy and makes the tac jump around some. Right now I have both of the wires that came off the Ballast wired together, the black and white (i believe) on the positive, red and black on + and -, and I believe another black on the -. Does this seem right? Maybe this is the problem? Also, where should the timing be? What mark is TDC, the one all the way to the right or to the left and what mark should I have it set on at idle. I need help trying to set this right, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 TDC is the notch on the crank pulley farthest to the left and the notches are 5 degrees apart. The timing at idle should be around 10 degrees (I think). Honestly your wiring doesn't sound right to me, but check out the diagrams at the Atlantic Z site http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm so you can check the colors of the wires that should be connected. I think it's off in a couple places on my '72, but it should get you going in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 All the way to the left standing where? Looking forward from the passanger side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 8, 2009 Author Share Posted June 8, 2009 Here are some pictures I just took, does this look right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 All the way to the left standing where? Looking forward from the passanger side? Standing at the front of the car looking towards the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Its hard for me to tell from your pics if it's right. The condenser on the coil mount should be directly attached to the positive terminal on the coil. Get a continuity tester and check the other two terminals. The negative side of the coil should go to the distributor and the positive side should be connected to the wire you put in place of the ballast resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 How would I connect the wire that I put in place of the BR, It is two wires connected to be one wire. Should they both just go on the coil +? I'm sorry, I just don't understand that part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Disclamer: Keep in mind I've never installed this kit. I'm no expert and I'm not responsible for your engine. This is just what I'd do if it were mine. I was doing some checking for you. My info is all comming from the pertronix web site and the July issue of Ol' Skool Rods magazine. Are you sure you can remove the ballast resistor? Did the instructions say to do so? Check out the instalation instructions on Pertronix's site: http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/billetvw%20Ignitor.pdf If your ignition system is equipped with a ballast resistor, do not remove it. I know that guide is for one of their billet distributors, but I'm thinking the same thing applies to your coil. Now take a look at this: http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/ignitor12vneg.pdf That should be the instructions to wire up your ignitor, it also mentions keeping the balast resistor. It even has a handy little diagram that shows the balast resistor all wired up. Here is how the stock wiring is setup: The ballast resistor isn't wired directly to the coil, there SHOULD be a black and white wire that comes from the ignition switch connects to the ballast resistor which connects on the other side to a green and white wire that goes back to the tach then comes back and connects to the positive side of the coil. There is also a green/blue wire that bypasses the resistor and is only 'hot' while the car is cranking. With that in mind, I'd put the ballast resistor back in and connect the new red wire for the ignitor to the black and white wire where it connects to the ballast resistor (as per the diagram in the pdf). The black/white wire that was connected to the original coil on the positive side should still be connected in the same place. Then I'd connect the new black wire to the ignitor to the negative terminal on the coil. All in all I think it should be pretty much like stock except you add the red wire to the ignition switch side of the balast resistor (black/white wire) and switch out the black wire that connects to the points distributor for the new black wire that connects to the new ignitor. Make sense? I can add clarification if you need, but if you still have questions it's a good idea to call Pertronix. Their number was on their website: 909-599-5955. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 So I hooked the black and white (the one from the ballast) to coil + and it reved maybe a little higher, but still not free throught the range. The diagrams help, but they dont say what wire goes where. It just says to attach the wire from the ign switch to coil +.. Well.. is it the green/blue or white/black one? I need to see a picture of this ignitor actually installed on a 240z without the ballast. I just can't see how they go, its not descriptive enough. I can see how it was, but not how it should be.. This is so awful and confusing haha. I just want my car to run right again. Thanks for all the help so far, but this seems hopeless.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 So I lowered the Idle to around 900 and the car seems to run a little better. I can get it to rev to around 5.5-6k while driving then it does the sputter thing. Do you think that it could be my mixture? I attached the wires like the picture above and I think that helped a little too. The car does backfire when decelerating in gear and stinks like gas, would that make it rich or lean? I know the baseline is 2.5 turns out, is that on the adjuster where the choke pops out the bottom? What way do I adjust from the baseline to richen or lean out the mixture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Oh, I also forgot to say.. I had my timing light hooked up and when I revved to the problem area the light would flicker. I guess this means I am not getting spark at the higher Rpms. How would I fix this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Your mixture could be off timing can affect it, reset you timing and adjust your mixture. I'm pretty sure idle is supposed to be around 800rpm, if you were higher than that when you set the timing it could be off. Make sure all you connections are good. Clean them with electronics cleaner (you can get it at any auto-parts store) and a wire brush (or some time with a pick for connectors the brush can't get to. If your still having issues you should call Pertronix. I posted their number a few posts ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass372 Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 Ok, I set the timing at 10 degrees btdc at around 750-800 rpms. Checked my plugs and the rears looked normal to on the lean side and the front 3 were black and dry (rich). I checked with multimeter on the coil and it was around 6 volts at idle, around 8v at maybe 3-4k and 12+ around 5+. I couldn't see the tac so im am just guessing from ear. The stutter still happens at like 5.5k rpms. Voltage at the battery was 14v while running. Most things seem right except the carbs being not balanced. Should I move in that direction? Ps: When I would rev high the multimeter would go blank, not say 0 but would go blank with maybe a dash. Was I just reving to fast that it couldn't keep up? Thanks, Elliot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsstilleasy Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 Elliot, any chance you figured this out? I just installed pertronix on my 240z and I'm having the same issues -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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