Cutlass372

Hey everyone, I made a mistake today while I was in a rush to fix my car and ended up burning up the pertronix ignitor for my 240z. I really can't justify spending another $85 on this right now for a new one, so I'm wondering is anyone has one laying around. I need this car to get me around and I'm pretty much relying on others at the moment which just won't last.I really only need the ignitor portion of the pertronix with the base plate and red and black leads for the coil. I have the coil and the magnets still in place. Please let me know what you have because I need this car ASAP. I can be reached through PM's on this site or through email which would probably be best. Cutlass375@yahoo.com Thanks in advance for your help. Elliot

I don't recall smelling anything that strange, but the fuel smell kind of masks things. The rubber between the balancer is really chewed up though and is falling out the front of the balancer. I feel that at higher rpms the pulley starts to slip some and gives me some overheating problems and alternator can't keep up. This is also just a theory and im sure there are other problems as well, but the fact that the rubber is almost non-existant can't be helping much. Is the 280z balancer the same as a 240z aside from the number of pulleys? Won't the timing marks be off? I have a pulley from a 280zxt, but im not sure if everything would be correct for the L24(as well as added weight). I tightened the belt not too long ago, but haven't replaced it since i purchased the car(doesn't seem to be in too bad of shape). Let me know what you have. Elliot

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a crank pulley for my 1972 240z. The rubber is worn out and the pulley is starting to slip. I'm looking for a good used one that isn't all dry rotted or beat up like mine. I think the poor condition of my pulley is causing driveability issues such as overheating and cutting out on the top end(alternator isn't outputting enough due to the slip). I don't have a lot of money to spend on this, but I need this car to get to school and for daily driving. If someone has anything that could help me out, please let me know. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My email is cutlass375@yahoo.com or you can contact me from here or PM's. Thanks for all your help Elliot

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a new project to take the place of my current 240z. The one that I have been working on just has a little too much rust then I would like to take care of. I am looking for a nice 240z shell, roller or full car with minimal rust. Possibly a car that someone brought from the west that they have lost interest in. I have a lot of parts from my current 240z so I should be able to piece something together with the right car (I have drivetrain, suspension and some interior). I am located in Doylestown, Pa so anything close to here is definitely a plus. I have the ability to do small rust patches, but I'm not interested in something that needs structural rust work (floors, frame rails, etc). A nice roller project with upgraded suspension is also a plus. Something I can put my running gear into and use would be very helpful. Let me know what you have and we can go from there. My email is Cutlass375@yahoo.com and is probably the best place to reach me at. Any help would be greatly appreciated Elliot

http://www.betamotorsports.com/services/images/projectcarimages/73240ZRB/FrontStruts-1.jpg Its sorta hard to see in this pic but the panel right behind the strut assembly. The one that the front cross member bolts through. It has a like 90 degree bend and then it sinks in to allow room for the bolts.

Hey everyone, I am looking to replace the trapezoid shaped panel that is located behind the front strut assembly. This is on a 72' 240z. This piece seems to be fairly important and holes have been slowly growing in both the passenger and driver's side. I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of the panel that they made to replace this piece. I have been trying for a few days to design the panel out of one piece of metal, but I cant seem to get it just right. I have also tried making a few angled cuts but im not sure if they will be strong enough. Does this panel need to be one piece (It would be easier if it was)? I have some proper thickness 5X10" rectangles cut out to make this, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Elliot

For the struts I am looking for a 240z set. Sorry for any confusion cause of the other parts. Thank you for your help.

Hey everybody, I'm looking for a nice set for tokico illuminas for my 240z. Im looking for something new or lightly used. I'm also looking for a set of 280z tokico springs in the same condition. Please let me know what you have. Thanks, Elliot

I think a v8 in a z would be a lot of fun. I am going the L28ET route, but have always been a fan of muscle cars (have a 72 cutlass). Back on topic... My dad has 2 C3's now (had 3) and they definitely go but even with rebuild stock suspension they still feel a little vague. I have only done poly bushings on my car as far as suspension goes and it feels much tighter then the corvettes. Not saying the corvette with suspension mods cant handle well, but the Z does a very nice job. Since you already have the Z I say go for it. You are going to spend at least 10-15k on a nice C3 (unless you get a project which will still be expensive). Do some nice suspension mods and use a modern v8 and gain hp with some nice mpgs. The Z is at least 500-1000 lbs lighter then a C3 (3200lbs i think) so you have the advantage there as well. I say go with the Z and I'm not trying to be biased. I believe you will save money and still be happy with the result.

Beautiful car. I am deciding on a color to paint my 240 and I always come back to white. What suspension do you have? and 16x8 +4 rota rbrs? I am thinking about getting those in flat black. The RB will be a blast.

Check the clutch slave cylinder. Had something similar to this happen on a 240sx I test drove.

I don't really see what you're expecting here... You say it needs a tie rod and/or ball joints and say the handling isn't as good as the 240z.. Might be a good starting point. A 240z with shitty front suspension isn't going to turn well either. A well maintained stock 240sx handles pretty nice for what it is. The Z just feels tighter because of the lack of power steering. 260DET pretty much hit the nail on the head with his comment and it seems that the same applies in the US. It has a 150hp 4cyl truck motor, it's not going to be a rocket ship and neither is a stock Z. KA-T would probably be my choice as it is cheaper then the SR and Ka's are available if you pop them. Look for the Boba Z car I think it is that used a KA-t on a $1500 budget. It made good power and on the cheap. I'm sure he had some of the stuff already, but if you look around you might be able to find some deals. Basically... Fix it first... then worry about making it faster.

Another Good video from Big Phil haha. Did you get the car back together? I thought you were having some problems. I sent you a pm about a quick question. Thanks, Elliot

It won't load for me either.. I wanna check it out haha.

I think the NGK BP6ES is supposed to be gapped around .030-32ish. Maybe I should try to go a little tighter?

Anyone else? Still having this problem after multiple attempts at fixing it. I am going to pick up a set of spark plug wires tomorrow and see if that helps anything. I cleaned up some more wires with no help and the problem only seems to get a little worse.. I'm going to clean the grounds again tomorrow as well. Let me know where else I should check. Thanks, Elliot

I have a multimeter. With the red lead connected to the + on the coil and the black lead to a ground I get around 14-15 when idling. I think the gap is set at 30 or 32 (leaning towards 30). How would I check the resistance at the plugs? It seems like the problem happens under load so I don't know how I could test it when the problem occurs. Thanks, Elliot

I will check all the grounds again, but I did clean them up not too long ago. I wish that someone was close enough that I could try a few of these parts without buying them all and not needing them. I don't have the money to keep throwing parts at this and having it drive like **** still.

There doesn't seem to be much shaft play, but the dizzy does seem to wobble a little if I start to push on it. Maybe the o-ring is bad at the base of the dizzy? Could this cause a problem like this? All of the magnets still seem to be in place and the tape is still tight. The wheel and pickup are still clean and there is minimal shaft play. Is anyone local that might be able to help me out? I need to figure this out because this car is my DD and I have to go over 55 mph some times. Any other ideas may help so please keep them coming. Thanks, Elliot

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2688601330063370706saFUXY These are the pictures I have at the moment, just hit next to see the rest. I have since removed the condensers and the other unwanted grounds. Also, I removed the wire I had connecting the green/white and black/white together and just attached them. I am running the pertronix ignitor and their coil without the ballast. Let me know what other information will help figure it out the problem. I still cant seem to figure this out.. Thanks, Elliot

I took a couple of videos of whats going on. I just replaced the fuel pump and the problem is still there. I also blew out the fuel lines and that didn't help either. I will add captions to the videos so it's easier to tell whats going on. In video 27 I was in 2nd gear I think and around 5k you can hear the limiter type situation. It does it in second gear now too and I am limited to about 55-60mph now, which is really becoming a problem for driving on the highway. Here is the link: http://www.youtube.com/user/Cutlass372 Clogged fuel tank or electical problem? Float bowls to low? The strange thing is that it came out of the blue. Does it seem like its missing or running out of gas. Let me know what you think. Thanks, Elliot

Hey everyone, I am trying to find a used set of tokico Illuminas that are in good shape. Let me know what you have. Thanks, Elliot

Hey everyone, over the past few weeks my car has been running progressively worse. I just replaced the spark plugs with new NGK BP6ES plugs and it took away the problems I was having in 1st and 2nd gear (at 5k rpms it would hit almost like a rev limiter, but keep revving sporadically). It was doing this before, but it seems like in 3rd gear or higher it get this violent loss of power and the tach jumps all around. It kind of surges, as if you let off the gas and stomped on it again over and over until you shift or slow down. I think the timing is set around 15 degrees and I am running the pertronix unit and their coil. This isn't something that has been happening for a long time and I don't recall changing anything or making any adjustments prior to this happening. What are your suggestions, Where should I look. Thanks in advance for any help. Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot

I will check there when I get up. I'm almost positive the struts are blown (aleast a few, it's on the list), But would that cause play in the area that I'm describing? It almost seems like it wants to wiggle the wheel/hub itself.

Hey everyone, I went for a ride today in my 72 240z and after a few minutes I heard some grinding coming from the front brakes. I drive home and jack the front end up and see that my pads are toast. Anyway.. While doing this I figured I would take a look at a few other things because at highway speeds my steering wheel shakes real bad. I snugged up both of the wheel bearings a little bit and the passenger side feels nice and tight(I didn't over tighten, but there is no play on this side). I go back to the driver side and if i grab the wheel at 10-4 or even 3-9 there is play somewhere that I just can't find. I even went to the extent to tighten the ball joints a little more, but still no luck. The car has all new ball joints, tie rods ends (not inners), and poly bushings all around. It seems like this play doesn't even move the tie rods, so I am thinking the inners are ok (they feel fairly solid anyway). Could the inner wheel bearing just be so crushed that its not sitting right anymore? What/where should I check now to fix this headache? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if you need anymore information. Thanks, Elliot