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Remote starter solenoid question


Owen

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Now that you mention it... I've seen little "roofs" tacked onto exhaust pipes before. You get a piece of steel and sort of sit it up on little legs so that there's an air gap between it and the object you're trying to protect. Hard to explain. However I'd think that we're going to have our exhaust pipes pretty close and that room won't allow for this - no?

 

I may try to bend somehting from some aluminum I've got and leave an air gap. I THOUGHT the Moroso starter shield did this but apparently not from what Pete says. I guess aluminized header wrapping works too but it would seem to me that would hold in any heat it gets (shrug). We'll see - I'm not stressing about this just yet icon_biggrin.gif

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BLKMGK, your 'roof' idea works v. good, I have those on my front exhaust pipes where they're within 1.5" of my steering rack boots...boots would last a few months tops and since the new roof icon_wink.gif they still look brand new, mine are more of a small flat plate with the 4 corners bent down and tacked to the exhaust....fancier ones can drill small holes in the right spot so more airflow passes thru but mine are working fine as is....I wish someone would donate a digital camera to me, so much to say icon_biggrin.gif

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Guest Anonymous

We need some of that space shuttle tiling! Thats what would do it! Yet some more unobtanium... icon_smile.gif

 

Shielding might help, that with the remote solenoid will at least get it started when its hot. I saw the moroso unit today at the speed shop, just looked like a tin shroud if its the one you were talking about. Maybe Header wrap on the starter? icon_smile.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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  • 1 month later...

Okay, I'm almost there on this (sigh). On the starter there are about 3 or 4 lugs. Two are small, one of them had a tag on it about it not being used on some cars the other looked a bit liek a mounting lug. Then there are two BIG lugs, one of which has a braided wire that goes into the starter itself, the second one was bare.

 

I've run an ) gauge wire from the Ford "contactor" icon_smile.gif to the large "bare" stud. I believe I need to run a jumper to the stud that had the tag on it - yes? Also, if I ran the 0 wire to the other stud that had the wire leading into the starter would THIS bypass the stock "contactor"? Would the starter simply spin if I did this and not bump out onto the flywheel? I guess I'm really not sure where the jumper wire goes in this setup - from the large lug that has the battery connection to the smaller lug on the stock solenoid, is that right?

 

The fact that this smaller lug had a sticker on it stating that it might or might not be used threw me! It siad something about some cars only having one wire and in those cases to disregard that stud. How do that work?! Maybe it's time to crawl under the Impalla and see how it's hooked up (grr). Anyone else using the LT1 Caprice starter? Did you use the remote Ford part too? Heeelp - want to fix this tomorrow if possible. icon_confused.gif

Thanks!

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Thanks Lone! That's pretty much what I figured I guess. I had just wondered if perhaps bypassing the stock piece altogether by moving the heavy cable over might work. This starter also seems to have 2 small lugs, guess I need to slide further under there and get a good close look at them to be sure. Should have this part done by tomorrow along with some other small stuff. Just want to make sure everything's done as "right" as posisble so I've got no surprises come startup time...

 

Thank you!

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  • 2 months later...

The "B" has +12 going to the toggle and pushbutton, yes? With toggle and pushbutton turned on do you get 12volts at the B terminal? Does the solenoid thump or make any noise? Case of solenoid grounded? My solenoid looks different but the all ough tto work the same - it's like a giant relay is all...

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