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Z32 V8 genral swap information

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I’ve had a few requests to put together a materials/where to get type deal for the Z32 swap. This will be based on my setup and how I went about the process of doing the swap (this does not mean there is NOT a better way it’s just how I did it). I know there are a lot more talented and creative people than me so I would like if people would also share their ins and outs of their Z32 swap experience.


Just to get things kicked off this is a good start to a materials/parts list you will need for your swap. Please feel free to add to the list.



1. 16 gauge sheet: for the firewall roughly 8’x4’ should do everything even the area where the transmission mount extra support is (this is the extra area on the floor and tunnel where I added extra sheet metal for support). The opening to the transmission tunnel is roughly 18†with tangent legs that wrap under the car for a little more support.

2. 20-22 gauge sheet: for the tunnel portion of the transmission tunnel (I wish I spent more time here making it a little prettier). So take your time! A 4’x6’ sheet would be fine.

3. 1/4â€x2†flat strap: for the A frame portion of the engine mounts. You can never have too much of this but at least 2’ should do it.

4. 1/4"x6†flat stock: for the base of the engine and transmission mounts. Again never too much of this either but at least 3’ should get the job done.

5. 1/2"x at least .875†tube: for the top of the A frame of the engine mount where the motor mount bolt goes thru. Get at least 6’ of this it really come in handy to have lying around. I like to have extra material just incase… look here http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15326&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0 they seem to have pretty good deals.

6. 1.5†square tube: for the cross brace on the transmission mount. You could probably go a little smaller but I always like to overbuild so you can throw gobs of power to it. Look here http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1195&step=4&showunits=inches&id=1&top_cat=0 you might be able to step down 1 size and still be ok.

7. For the exhaust you are going to have to make your mind up here cause there are just too many directions to head in here.




  • I used block hugger headers like these http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/HOO2100HKR.htm <<---- that was just a quick search you cans find something better I’m sure and D port shaped too. I know there was a good source I saw on her a while back… maybe someone will post it up.
  • Engine mounts: I used this set http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1120G/ it includes the transmission mount too so that is nice too. They are low profile and fit nicely.
  • I used the factory radiator.
  • Radiator hoses (that gets interesting) I would suggest making them with aluminum tubing and have someone route and weld them up for you unless you can weld aluminum proficiently yourself.
  • Radiator fans: I used a set of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-410/?image=large they work rather well.
  • Driveshaft: This is up to you but these guys a pretty well known and they can walk you through measuring it up… http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/
  • I used the factory clutch master… I would recommend a tilton with a little more volume and I went to the hose boss to have a hydraulic line made up to connect the slave and master. Just measure it up and tell him the fittings you need and he should be able to fix you up. For the LT1 there is a special fitting you will need and you might have to buy a new line and I think the only way to get it is by purchasing the whole setup. I took the old fitting in the slave and drilled and tapped it so I could run a hard line to it (cheap and easy).

I’m sure I missed a bunch of stuff but you can ask me specific questions here and I will do my best to answer them. If you are unfamiliar with my build you can view it in the link in my sig. I answer a lot of common questions there.


Good links for wiring and general information on the LT1





Good luck and bring some good information to this thread! Please keep this thread clean and on topic.



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Its an NA radiator.


The one you posted should work just fine. I had to get a little creative with my setup to use the factory radiator. I initially had it plumbed wrong or the hoses were reversed. I'm going to have some aluminum pipes made up to make it look better but for the LT1 the factory radiator is probably not the best choice. I will take some measurements and spec out some radiators that will be optimum for the swap.

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Just a quick search and I found these links.

TH350 http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/trans_dims.asp

Z32 post 5 and T56 post 15 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105513


as for the body height I can measure a th350 but I don't have access to a t56 or a z32 transmission... maybe someone else can chime in here.


Read this thread over and over, BRAAP has alot of good information here too. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144469 Thanks to BRAAP


The more valuable information we can pound in this thread the better.


Here are a few more links to good threads and great information to help with the swap...

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110873 Thanks to TwinTurbo

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125578 Thanks to Firion 13

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149027 Thanks to fogged306 and chris51881

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141356 Good Q&A here along with some wiring tips for the dash (post #72)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok we have a good solution for the clutch master for the swaps. I quoted a post from chris51881 and you can view the pictures in his thread in the link above.


so i got my CMC today. i ordered the Wilwood setup with optional remote reservoir from Hinson. i also got a banjo bolt and an adapter line so i could hook it up to the t56 plug-in. the adapter plate in the pictures came from Hinson also but it is for a 240 and doesn't fit.


Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder:



LSx hydraulic line:



3/8 banjo bolt:



its was an easy setup. i just had to drill 2 new holes so i could bolt the CMC in place. theres a jointed bolt to connect it to the pedal. i would wait to put the reservoir on the top (unless you are going to use it remotely) until you get it in place so you can get a wrench in for the bolts.

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