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alternative wiring solutions please!!!!


fl327

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hey i just took a real hard look at my fusebox, and i dont like it. i spent about four hours the other day trying to get my running lights and interior to come on to no avail, until finally i discovered i had corrosion in the front running light, that was shorting my electrical!!! im looking into using a painless or proform fuseblock, for those running it, how hard was it for you guyz to install, im not great at electrical but i can follow instructions, im also looking at that ideal z kit, which would be pretty cool, but i dont think that they are available. thanx guyz....

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Guest Anonymous

I know the painless kit is bank, but man, its all nicely labeled and stuff, plus its engineered to work right, IMHO the Nissan wiring is so jacked even in its design that just replacing the fusebox isn't going to help much without some rewiring as well. (It might have been common practice way back when, but running full amperages on the switches for some high draw items is a pretty bad idea.)

I can't recall another car I've owned have a right and left fuse for a headlight? (and whats weird is they'll work dimly if you take one of the fuses out, thats all that was wrong with mine... icon_rolleyes.gif ). Oh well, good luck with it, if you find a better cheaper solution, please let us know. Thanks.

 

Take care,

 

Lone

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My last junkyard expedition was to find a suitable fusebox for my 260. The best one I found was out of a 1988 or so 3-series BMW. If I'm remembering correctly, it's wired for something like 9 relays and 22 blade-type fuses. Fully loaded with relays, it cost me 15 bucks. Add in the cost of a few rolls of different colored wire, shrink wrap, and connectors, and I'm looking at about $100. It measures about 8 x 8 x 6, so it'll probably have to reside in the engine compartment. But it's got a water resistant cover, so that probably won't be much of an issue.

 

I don't plan on completely rewiring the car, though. Low amperage stuff like taillights and instrument lighting will work just fine with existing wires that have been re-routed to the new fusebox. I'll run new heavier gauge wires for the high amp stuff, like the stereo and lighting, though. And everything in the future that I add (power locks, alarm system, etc) will get to have its own circuit!

 

The way I see it, $100 for the peace of mind that comes from knowing that your electrical system is robust is WELL worth the money. I've had far more electrical problems out of Z's than I have mechanical.

 

When I finally get that project started, I'll write it up so you can see if it's worth the effort to you.

 

[ November 06, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

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heres the gameplan. ive got three fuseboxs with ten fuse circuits in them each from kragen, im gonna run better relays with inline fuses yo each one, and later on i may switch out the headlight harness, clean out all the corrosion i can, ive counted em, their are a total of about 15 wires i need to cut and splice to do this, before i ever attempt the headlght harness, which i dont want to do just yet, all the in car wiring is already laid out, the best part about this setup is its only gonna cost me 4 dollars.

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Guest John Adkins

I replaced the fusebox in my Z with three of the fuseboxes that use blade-type fuses from Kragen... works great! I also soldered the fusebox to wiring connections to make sure there would be no corrosion,or high resistance problems...

 

Solder all the wiring connections that you can and use heat shrink tubing instead of electrical tape. It will save you from a lot headaches later icon_smile.gif

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Scott, that sounds very interesting--cost effective solutions for nagging problems I am always on the look out for.

 

What I like about the Painless systems, is that they are labeled for the average dumm..er, person. Simplicity is what is so appealing. However, the BMW solution sounds interesting if it is effective. Thanks for sharing.

 

Davy

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