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Waterproof Wiring


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Hmm... Lots of little message icons to choose from now!

 

When I install the BMW fusebox to replace the inadequate stock one, I'm going to be using some of the stock wiring. Is there a way to make completely waterproof splices? I'm fond of heat shrink tubing, but I'm not sure that would do the job.

 

Any suggestions?

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Solder the connections and use the heatshrink. IF you look hard you can ind both butt connectors and heatshrink that has a sort of glue or epoxy inside. IF you can find this, and I've not ever had good luck, you'll find that the goop oozes and makes the seal waterproof when you heat it up. Yup, even the butt connector gets the heatgun in this case icon_smile.gif The GM connectors that were supplied with my T56 pigtails had this stuff in the butt connectors - awesome stuff!

 

Anyone know where to find heatshrink and crimp connectors with this protection? Cheaply? icon_wink.gif

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Guest Anonymous

I'd check Marine applications, I'm sure they have to have some sort of water/corrosion resistant wiring splices. Andy any ideas?

 

I did note that the GM had a heat shrink crimp connector in the VSS pigtail I bought from them.

 

Maybe cut the heatshrink long, coat the exposed solder joints with a coat of silicone, let cure, then slide the heatshrink over the splice and shrink the ends. Just a thought off the top of my head. I've seen a plastic soda straw full of silicone slid over joints as well. *shrug* icon_smile.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Holy icons batman...

 

Anyway, there is stuff called liquid electrical tape. Its this goo in a small can that you paint onto the joint. It worked well in my boat, and is relatively cheap at 8$ a can or so, the can will last forever!

 

Solder those connections, then use this stuff and it works well. Not as pretty as butt connectors and heat shrink but thats what wire loom is for right icon_smile.gif ?

 

Evan

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I know they have that heat shrink with the goop inner lining for large stuff. I used that for my battery cables (2/0). I was shocked when I saw it oozing out. I thought it was defective or something at first. Then I figured it out (duh). I'll call Napa tomarrow and see if they have it in smaller sizes.

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Crimp connectors WITHOUT plastic outside (yes, they're available).

1) strip bare ends

2) snip two lengths of heat shrink of suitable diameter/length and slip one over each end

3) dip bare ends inside tube of dielectric silicone (a must for anyone IMNSHO, great for plug ends/plug wire ends/connnections)

4) crimp bare ends inside butt connector, crimp

5) place one length of heat shrink over connector overlapping unstripped wire suitable amount, 'shrink', repeat with 2nd piece.

 

I solicited lots of advice from DIYEFI when extending my proflo harness extensively.....I did lots of bench soldering as well as above method...soldering always weakens wire in point of soldering and for X length beyond solder location..OK if wire is not to be moved much if ever (ie. fatigued). Once I started above method it was quite reasonably fast and I felt v. good about end product. I extended and/or shortened EVERY main trunk of my EFI harness (ie. many hours of work) so tried a few....above is what I preferred and still use. I often use a couple different diameters of heat shrink with a shortern one first and then a longer more overlapping one as an outer stiffener.

 

Ross (my reply for the week....having a busy one) C

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An older tech at work told me that crimp connectors were developed by the space industry in the 50s or 60s? because of the fatigue issue with soldered connections. Done right, crimped is better. The problem is good crimping tools are EXPENSIVE and not universal to all crimp connectors.

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Wow, that's a lot of good info!

 

I've never liked crimp connectors, because no matter what I do, it seems that they come loose over time. I suppose I need a $250,000 government crimper to do the job right! My Radio Shack special doesn't impress me with it's abilities.

 

I have never heard of soldering hardening a metal, but I guess it's possible. If NASA crimps, they must know something about it that I don't, which is not surprising. icon_wink.gif

 

When I solder, I do it in a slightly different manner than recommended in all the books. I strip the wire and dip it in liquid flux, then I tin both wires. Then I put the two wires side by side with 1/4 inch of overlap, and join them with a molten solder blob. Usually the excess solder drops away, leaving a smooth joint that has yet to fail me.

 

I think what I'll try is coating the connection with Home Depot goo, then covering it with heat shrink tubing to make it neat and tidy. Best of both worlds. But you're right, Evan - if everything is neatly loomed, why bother making it so neat? I guess it's like wearing clean underwear in case you get in an accident. You don't want the emergency workers to see Hershey streaks while you're bleeding all over the place, do you? icon_razz.gif

 

Blkmgk had a great idea with the shrinking, waterproof connectors. A sales rep came by our company years ago demonstrating those things. They took a 10" length of 14 gauge wire and looped it so one end stuck in each side of a butt connector. After heating it with a match, it shrank so tightly that NOBODY in the office could rip it loose. And we had some BIG guys who tried! Truly amazing stuff. Too bad they were something like $2.50 each!

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Got my Liquid electrical tape made by Star brite today at Home Depot. $4.48 They have the liquid form in black, red, green, and white.

I also found waterproof capscrews in different sizes. Looks like they have the liquid tape inside the caps and it wraps the liquid around when you twist the wires into the cap screw. Prices varied with the sizes. Will be starting the rewiring of the electrical system this weekend. icon_biggrin.gificon_biggrin.gif

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