7MGFORCE Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 hi i have an early 1974 260z with a 5.0 mustang motor that is carb. i used this two site to wire up my ignition system. http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html after following the carbdford the engine does not run at all and after searching i found the zhome page. my distributor is hook up folowing the carbdford site as it is a mustang motor but the coil is hook up following the zhome page. number 15 is what i cant figure out since color code is different. "Make a Y-jumper from a piece of wire. It should have two male terminals and one female. Connect the female terminal to termial B on the module. Connect one of the male terminals to the long black/white wire and the other to the green/white wire." i made that "Y" and connected it. the + on the coil has to be connected to iether the black with white stripe wire or the black with blue stripe wire or else the engine wont turn on. now the problem. the car runs.... BUT only when i keep the key on the "crank" once i stop cranking the engine dies(i keep it on crank for about 4 second only since i didnt want my starter to get mess up.). it seem that i have ignition only when its cranking after that it doesnt. what do i need to wire? to keep the engine running after cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I don't think you first link is right. My setup has 12v going through the tach and to the coil. Follow this: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html If you still have problems, address the 12v to the coil. If you're running the ballast resistor, toss it. How you say? Thats how it was originally if you had it. Thats how it is when you get rid of it. Now thats only to get rid of the resistor which drops the voltage to the old points coil. I think you may burn it up if you still use points so toss that too. Follow the directions in the link to install the HEI module, and then follow the diagram if you still have the resistor, which you may not. Still having problems then you can buy my entire setup since I'm going to something else. I'd leave it all wired up for you so all you have to do is bolt down the dizzy, coil, and hook up 12v from the tach to the coil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7MGFORCE Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Yes I have the ballast resistor removed. I have read that article it's basically the same as the zhome except the zhome goes into connecting a coils. Okay so maybe it's in the wires to coil. What I have is 4 wires. 1 green 2 black w/ blue stripe 3 black with green strip and 4 black with white stripe. Wich one goes where? Following the instruction "C" goes to the negative coil so the green wire is left disconnected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Time to get out the voltmeter and read voltages at given instances. Usually begin with the ignition functions which are accessories, run, start in that order when you turn the key. I'm only familiar with 240z wiring. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7MGFORCE Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Yeah I did that but the problem is I don't have coil spark after I crank her up. Btw does the 260z need to have the oil pressure to be connected to run? And can I directly run a wire from bAttery to + coil just to see if that's trully my problem or will I damage my coil? The coil is off a mustang so it's tfi coil. And can I use a oil pressure switch and hook up 12v to use and connect that to the + coil? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Quick answer: No you don't need the oil pressure unit hooked up, its only for the gauge. Long answer: The oil pressure units I have seen are all just sending units and not switches. The Z has an electric pressure unit rather than mechanical/fluid. People make after market switches which you connect by a Tee fitting, this will flick on a light or do whatever you want when oil pressure drops to a certain point, you can buy them at a lot of different pressures (10psi, 5psi, 15psi, etc) If you have one wire coming from the unit, its just for the gauge and nothing else. If its 2 wires then I would suspect the other wire is for a warning light. 3 wire units would be a gauge, warning light, and then the other one is if there is no oil pressure it will usually cut the fuel pump or ignition or all of it for that matter. I can't speak for a Mustang coil but I would suspect most all coils take a constant 12v. This means from the battery is fine. In fact the correct way is to go from the battery 12v to the tach, out of the tach and to the coil, this way the tach can read the pulses. However just a regular 12v will work. I would suspect that the Mustang coil may need like some sort of extra piece run by an ECU or something if there is still a problem. First thing is first, get your 12v, then make sure the rest is hooked up properly, then make sure you have spark. Buy one of those ignition lights which hook up inline with with the spark plug wire to the spark plug itself. It will flash for every spark on that wire. Its about $2 at Harbor Freight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7MGFORCE Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 So if I run the 12v directly from battery to + coil lead I won't have to use the wire that used to connect to + coil and resistor right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Correct, toss that resistor anyways, thats just extra weight if you did what the diagrams above showed. Just know that obviously you won't get a tach reading if you just go from battery to coil like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7MGFORCE Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 Yes but the diagram shows two wires going to resistor on mine I have 3. Wich on do I jump/bypass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 What colors, take a picture? Also what year is your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7MGFORCE Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 What colors, take a picture? Also what year is your car. It's all black wires with different stripe color. 1. Blue stripe 2. White stripe 3. Green stripe I will take pics tommorow. It's an early 74 260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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