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Water pump bolt broke / sheared


at-jefft

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You would be amazed at what JB weld can do.

 

It should work ok but I would line up the cover and see if the hole will work in it's current location before finalizing with with JBweld.

 

I'm not sure how the jbweld will grab the bolt so you might want to dip it in wax or something in case you ever want to remove it.

 

I wouldn't use oil since it could interfere with the hardening of the jbweld.

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What kind of foam are you thinking of Kolonel?

 

You can use foam rubber in the holes, its easy to put in, take out, buy, cut to size, clean, reuse and best of all stop crap like iron filings going into oil galleries and such.

 

Instead of using compressed air guys to blow everything everywhere, why not try a small, stiff bristle brush and a strong vacuum cleaner or 'hoover' as they're called in some parts to clean everything up?

 

Better to suck than to blow in this situation methinks! :mrgreen:

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...What kind of foam are you thinking of Kolonel?

 

I figured out a little trick when i cut injector ports into my e88 head for my MS install -

 

get some run-of-the-mill furniture foam etc, rip it into compressable balls and then wrap these in plastic bags and cut off the excess plastic... make two per port to create "double seal" and when you're ready to take them out use an air gun or vacuum(preferably) on the first then pull it out and repeat on the second.

 

the plastic removes the porousity of the foam so it is less likely to trap slaggy little shavings whilst still keeping that wonderful expanding seal :)

 

 

 

 

 

To protect the sump during cleaning you could even use cling-wrap! :mrgreen:

 

Alternatively you could tape up any openings that you want to protect but you might have problems with getting the tape to adhere to those oily surfaces

 

 

hope that helps! - Pete

 

 

*edit* dang Mark! beat me to it!!!

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OK, well I got the front cover back on with new gaskets and such. The water pump no longer leaks so: Mission Accomplished!

 

I'm having issues with timing now though, I put the oil pump back on and put the dizzy shaft as close to the "1125AM position" as possible; like the fsm said. Engine was at tdc verified by looking through spark plug hole and taking valve cover off to see lobes.

 

It only back fires when I crank. Have I installed the dizzy incorrectly? Also what color connector goes to the dizzy. I believe I switched the water temp and dizzy connectors but I now think I have them corrected.

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