Jump to content
HybridZ

at-jefft

Members
  • Posts

    292
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by at-jefft

  1. Hey All, Anyone have a pair of good SU floats? As far as I know new ones aren't available. I have '72 3 screw dome tops. I would also be interested in a fuel rail. 'Jeff
  2. I'm trying to do some rust repair and I want to remove the hatch sill. Mine is very rusty and I can't seem to find all the spot welds. Could someone post a pic with the factory spot weld places. Thanks.
  3. Bottom one was made by western wheels possibly western turbines. Never seen the top one before, cool looking though.
  4. Last summer I was having hesitation issues. Turned out to be the float level.
  5. Check to see if one of your jets is stuck in the down position. IE the choke is stuck on
  6. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?19034-Treating-inside-outside-of-gas-tank-with-POR15-products-and-removing-evaporation-tank&p=149383&viewfull=1#post149383 I used some hose from a local hydraulic hose builder. Some hose clamps and I was good to go.
  7. Used this stuff last summer: http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/1080/ You will need some muriatic acid aswell. Comes with good directions the only challenge I had was blocking off the fuel filler and vents. Messy job but its not too difficult.
  8. needs moar low. Just kidding, looks fantastic.
  9. Called Cowl. http://www.carbonfiberhoods.com/cbk-carbon-fiber-oem-cowl-datsun-260z-1974-1974.html I'm sure there are more/better place to buy one as well
  10. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html If you are new to Z's familiarize yourself with Atlanticz.ca 's tech tips section.
  11. Have you double checked your float levels? remember that the front and rear is different for 72 roundtops. Float level was the solution to my low power this last summer. yup there are brass filters on the banjo bolts. Check those.
  12. Check to see if the choke is binding and a jet is stuck in the down position.
  13. I Cleaned nozzles and adjusted the front carb float down 2mm and now everything is good! (did this after finding out that 72 carbs have different float levels for front/rear) Pulls way past 4k now. I still have some backfires through the intake here and there, so I'm gonna richen it up (plugs are very white) and hopefully those will go away. Thanks for your help everyone!
  14. I found an intake leak today. Source of the problem?
  15. I did lean out the fuel mixture too much, the plugs were ghost white. I richened the fuel mixture a bit, but didn't get to drive it since it is raining out. Played with the fuel pump, seems to be putting out plenty of fuel.
  16. Sorry for being unclear, but the wall is only under load when I'm drivng. in neutral the engine revs much past 4k rpm. What do you suggest to clean the fuel pump with? Carb Cleaner?
  17. I'll check the floats and nozzles. Hard to say on the wall. It just stops accelerating. It decelerates fast enough that the suspension settles back to level.
  18. Actually, they just started backfiring today. I'm pretty sure it is because I adjusted the mixture too lean though.
  19. Can someone confirm that they are running Su carbs on just the mechanical pump? I've heard people running triples on just the mechanical pump and the electric was just for vapor lock. Today I put a bottle of fuel in the engine bay and ran the car off that from just the mechanical pump. No change in fuel pressure. I think I can eliminate clogged fuel lines. Really could use some other ideas here. The Mechanical pump was replaced by the PO and is pretty new. How can I test to see if it is bad?
  20. Update: Went for a drive with the fuel pressure gauge on. The gauge is for a FI car so its hard to tell how many psi I'm getting. But the Car accelerates nicely after its been idling and the fuel pressure gauge is showing around 3psi. When I hit about 4k rpm the car hits a wall; The fuel pressure gauge shows 0. I have to let the car idle before it will accelerate again. CLIF NOTES: Nearly positive, carbs are running out of fuel. I'm going to try and run some solid wire through the fuel lines tomorrow, and see if crap comes out. My electric fuel pump is not working and I have taken it out. I don't think it was working before though.
  21. Blew compressed air through the fuel lines. No change in fuel pressure. The coil will arc about an inch. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere couldn't find any vacuum leaks though. Noticed one of the jets was sticking down when the choke was disengaged.
  22. I'll definitely check out the fuel lines. The dizzy advance is working. The SU's have a brass filter at the fuel inlet. The SU's were rebuit using a ZTherapy kit last summer. So the fuel bowl to carb body lines are clear and I checked the needle valves, they are good.
  23. So, I have an early 260Z, its got an L26 with 72 dome top SU's. It sat over winter and when I started it up (early spring ~40F) it ran terribly. Barely moved under its own power as well as bucking terribly. Probably 10mph max. Fast forward to summer(now), I messed around with the carbs to find one of the carbs wasn't getting fuel. Fixed that. It runs a little better. It will accelerate (sluggishly) to ~25mph then hits a wall. Bucks once in a while. I thought it had a clogged fuel filter(s), so I relined the gas tank(lots of rust) and replaced the fuel filters. No change. So, Ideas on what it could be? I'm thinking it could be my ignition coil. I ohmed it out and got 17K for the secondary and .7 for the primary. Both of those measurements are slightly above the fsm specs of 12.7 and .55 respectively. Other Ideas? Thanks in advance, Jeff
×
×
  • Create New...