74 260Z Resurrection

[nullbound]

I should have started this thread sooner.

 

My friend Paul had this car a few years ago. He bought it with toasted 6 cylinder and converted it to chevy v-8 car.

 

To start his project, he stripped the car down and took out the original motor and transmission. He swapped the rear suspension out for 280Z suspension in order to raise the rear end. He replaced most of the brake hardware (rotors, drums, pads, shoes, master cyliner, rear wheel cylinders) and upgraded to stainless braided brake lines. He installed suspension techniques springs and strut cartridges with kyb's. He replaced the rack boots, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering coupler, tension rod bushings, control arm bushings. He also upgraded to 280zx turbo cv axles. Paul bought a set of Weld drag lite wheels, which were later swapped for rod lites.

 

For the motor, he built a chevy 377 with 6 inch rods and Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. This motor was topped with a performer air gap manifold and Edelbrock quadrajet carb and backed by a turbo 350 transmission. He installed the motor using the hooker/scarab kit.

 

Here's some pics of what the car looked like when Paul had it:

 

 

 

The car wasn't perfect, but it was really fun to drive and handled really well. Paul enjoyed the car for a while, but then decided he wanted to work on something else. A friend of his bought the car when he decided to sell it. That was about 2 years ago. The new owner enjoyed the car for a while, making a few changes here and there running it at a few recent DNI events.

 

 

Then the new owner decided he wanted something faster. He bought a Chevy Luv race truck and swapped the 377 motor and transmission over to the truck from the Z, leaving the Z out in the pasture, so to speak.

 

A short time later, the 260Z was back on the market, which is where I came into the picture. Paul wanted the car back, but has two 240's keeping him occupied. Paul mentioned to me that the car was for sale and would be coming with a lot of the stuff he had on the car, including most of the stuff that was bolted to the motor. Knowing the work that Paul had put into the car, it was a no brainer to buy the car without the engine and transmission. And I have to say it was a good deal.

 

The 260Z has been sitting outside for quite some time and is showing definite signs of that. Here's some pics of the car as I bought it:

 

 

The roof definitely needs attention, with surface rust getting to a bad state:

 

 

The paint in the engine bay needs attention, too:

 

 

The car looks rough compared to how it was. It definitely needs quick attention where the rust is on the roof. However, there's a lot already done here that is still good (suspension, brakes, wheels, etc).

 

My plans for this car:

 

1. Strip the car and ready it for paint (currently working on this part)

2. Send it to the paint shop (within 2 weeks from now), with a few changes planned for the body

3. While the car is being painted, freshen up my previous 377 (5.7" rods, canfield 195 heads, team g intake)

4. Get spare turbo 350 rebuilt

5. Replace tires (I have 2 255/60-15's, but need new front tires)

6. When car comes out of paint, install the engine and transmission with JTR kit (I have a kit already)

7. Re-install usable parts from step 1

8. Have the car back on the road within a few months

 

This should be a relatively quick project. In the end, it will be very similar to my silver 240z... and will actually have the old motor and transmission from my silver car. I wasn't really looking to do the silver car over again, but a good deal is a good deal. I don't really have to buy much to get this car back on the road and I have almost all the necessary parts to do this how I want. I'm just glad to be able to put a lot of parts I have to good use.

[nullbound]

Paul picked up the car for me on Friday and took it to his house. I went over on Saturday and he and I began stripping the car in preparation for paint. We left the car on the trailer since we hoped to take it to the painter as soon as we were done. This actually made some of the work easier, since the car was sitting higher.

 

I took as much as I could out from the engine bay and removed all the lights (headlights, side marker, and tail lights). Paul removed the side skirts, which he had rivetted on when he owned the car. I took out most of the interior panels and door panels. We took out the fuel cell and plugged the fule lines. I removed the four soft metal screws that hold the quarter windows in place on each side.

 

Next was the fun part...

 

The fender on the passenger side had a rust spot similar to what's shown on the roof in the first post. The driver's side fender had a few waves and a big dent. To make the paint and body work easier, I decided to use some new fenders that have been gathering dust in my basement. Anyone who has removed fenders knows how fun this can be. For whatever reason, most of the bolts used to hold the fenders are soft metal. This includes the screws underneath the cowl, as well as all the bolts and screws that hold the fenders next to the hood. Yeah, so the heads on most of these broke off.

 

We went to the hardware store and bought a good drill bit and tap and Paul was kind enough to take care of the broken bolts and screws. We also bought some good bolts (no screws) to hold the new fenders in place.

 

When installing the new fenders, the passenger side went on quite easily. The driver's side, however, didn't seem to want to line up with the lower bolt holes very well. We had to work the fender a bit to get it into place. One of the lower brackets wasn't lining up exactly right. We got it bent into the right position. Both fenders line up pretty well with the doors.

 

Here's some pics from the day :

 

A shot before it got too hot:

 

Seven hours later:

 

I like to keep a spare piston in the glove box, in case one goes bad

 

New fenders mounted, wiring all tucked in a plastic bag

 

I should have taken more pics showing progress, but it was really hot and humid. Working on a black car on a black trailer in direct sunlight didn't help me remind myself to snap pics.

 

Some of the items from my datsun inventory going to the paint booth with the car:

 

Kaminari front spoiler for 240/260

Rear valence from MSA

New fenders from Nissan mentioned above

New headlight extensions that came with a previous project

 

Unfortunately, we haven't heard from the painter in about a week. The car is still on the trailer at Paul's place now. The guy is a mutual friend, so we hope to hear from him this week. I want to get this car in his booth this coming weekend.

[nullbound]

I met with the painter today and we went over what needs to be done and what all I want for this paint job. I've seen this guy's work before and really wanted him to do the car once this project came my way.

 

There's a lot to be done, that's for sure. One thing he insisted on was that the windshield and hatch glass come out, which was definitely on my list of things to do. He's also going to be filling in many holes for me that were donated by previous owners.

 

I'm looking forward to getting the car back, but want him to take his time with it as much as he can. I'm expecting to get the car back in under a month. I know this sounds strange, but this guy doesn't run a paint prison. Depending on his workload this week, he said I may get it back in two weeks. I'm going to Hawaii in two weeks, so I asked him to take it a little slower than that.

 

One thing he's going to have to spend some time with, which I didn't know was this bad until I got the seals and scuff plates off:

 

 

And unfortunately it's on both sides:

 

 

He's going to do this the right way.... cutting out all the rust and welding in new metal.

 

The engine bay has quite a few holes that need to be filled in, but he's going to take care of that, too.

 

Some shots before we took it to the paint shop:

 

It's going to cost more than I was originally planning for, but doesn't it always? I wasn't expecting the rust under the door sill plates and seals, but want that done right. That definitely raises the cost.

 

Oh well... The car is now at the paint shop.

[nullbound]

Well, life has it's way of throwing you one.

 

I've been renting in the same house for about 6 years now (horrors me that it's really that long). The landlord and I have had a good relationship and things have been smooth. I work on my projects in the garage and he doesn't care as long as I was clean about it.

 

He currently lives in another house with his wife and kid and they are in the process of building a new house. He does that sort of thing for a living. They put their current house on the market and it sold really fast and the new owners want him out by the 16th.

 

He called to let me know last week that he and his family are going to by my new roommates. Then he called a few days later to say that they don't want roommates when they move back in. So, I have notice to move by mid-October. And I have two cars in the garage in various stages and the black car in paint. And I've been in Hawaii for the past 9 days.

 

Perfect timing.

 

I'm looking to move the 2 cars in the garage into a storage unit this weekend while looking to buy a house. The first time home buyer's rebate expires at the end of November. It's time I buy a house of my own anyway and should take advantage of the $8k check for buying a home.

 

So, sadly, no updates at the moment. Car is still in paint jail and the painter is actually out of town at the moment. He did take the doors off to fix the bottoms that had cancer spots. I haven't talked to him since that update, unfortunately. I may ask him to slow down a bit, depending on his progress, so that I can sort out my living arrangements. I actually already have a local house in mind that's on the market.

 

I hope this all goes smoothly.

[nullbound]

This car is about to get sprayed:mrgreen:

 

All the rust has been repaired properly in the doors and door jambs. Holes on the firewall and inner fenders have been filled in. And the rear bumper holes were taken care of by welding in new metal. Side skirts and rear valence have been put on.

 

I haven't seen the car in a month due to the move, but a good friend has been keeping tabs on it for me. The work has been superb in his eyes and supposedly there have been several offers made for the car as it sits in primer.

 

I knew this guy was good...

 

I hope to see the car next weekend and will post some pics.

[nullbound]

still some more paint to be sprayed, and lots of sanding, but it's looking good. these pictures don't do it justice.

 

 

 

 

 

[nullbound]

No update on paint, but started tearing into the motor today.

 

This is the 377 that used to be in my 240, but it was having a strange problem with pressure in the cooling system... after the car sat after driving it any distance. I was concerned that either I had a head gasket problem or a head problem. It appears from the teardown that it was a head gasked problem, likely due to some of the lower headbolts not being to torque spec.

 

Checked a few bearings and they still look good. Some carbon in the combustion chambers, but that was expected due to how rich it was running before we pulled this motor.

 

The motor is nasty on the outside, but looks great on the inside.

 

 

 

 

 

I still love these heads.

 

 

 

 

 

I bought several cans of gunk today and some paint to start cleaning up the block. I'll start cleaning up the heads and intake manifold during the week.

 

We'll do some more work on the motor after DNI.

[nullbound]

canfield 195 heads

*2.055 intake/1.60 exhaust valves

*65 cc combustion chambers

*200cc intake runners

 

comp cams 12-770-8 extreme energy mechanical roller:

*RPM Range: 2,200-6,200

*Int. Dur. @ .050 inch Lift: 236

*Exh. Dur. @ .050 inch Lift: 242

*Adv. Int. Dur.: 274

*Adv. Exh. Dur.: 280

*Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.564 int./0.570 exh. lift

*LSA: 110 degrees

 

comp cams roller lifters, high-tech pushrods, springs, retainers

arp 12-point poly locks

canfield guideplates

silvolite keith black hyp. pistons

*0.30 over, 3.48 stroke, 4.155 bore

crane gold 1.5 roller rockers

arp bolts throughout (engine kit plus head bolts, main studs, flexplate bolts, converter bolts, oil pump stud, etc.)

summit stage 2 5.7 rods

chevy cast 350 crank (welded up and turned back down for the 400 block)

weiand team g intake manifold (rated for 2800-7200 rpm)

holley 3310 vaccuum secondary 750 cfm (silver finish with black metering block kit)

cloyes hex-adjust true roller timing chain

melling m55a high volume oil pump

milodon oil pan (with windage tray, oil baffles)

milodon timing cover

march performance serpentine kit

 

For exhaust:

s&s headers, modified to be tri-y's by tim240z

magnaflow mufflers

[nullbound]

Paint is almost done. I should have the car back in less than 2 weeks. The painter isn't happy with a few things (including the hood), so he's trying to straighten out those things before he'll let me take it home. I have no complaints about that.

 

 

Haven't had much time to work on the motor. I've been cleaning the heads and the intake manifold, but still a lot more cleaning to do.

[nullbound]

The car came out of paint jail last weekend and is currently in my friend Paul's garage. My engine is sitting on a stand at his place, so it makes sense to get the engine together and back in at his place. Also, a friend of his is going to rebuild my transmission. And my garage is currently full as it is.

 

I rebuilt the quarter windows with new seals last week:

 

 

And today I went to Paul's and put my weld wheels back on, as well as the quarter windows, inner hatch seal, and door seals. The car looks way better with the weld wheels, but it's very jeep-like right now.

 

 

 

 

I have a ton of cleanup to do...

 

I also bought a new cam for the 377 today. I'll post specs soon.

 

I'll do some more next weekend, but the holidays will prevent me from doing too much until january.

[nullbound]

It's been a while since I've been able to work on this car. Not much to report, but here goes.

 

I got my tail lights reassembled and put back on the car:

 

 

I also got the motor cleaned up, repainted, new cam installed, and mostly back together:

 

 

 

The windshield and rear hatch glass went back in today with new seals from Nissan. That was not the most fun I've had. My fingers tips are a bit numb from messing around with that metal trim. At least I know a good way to do it now. I'll be doing it again later this year with the 280.

 

Next weekend, I'll put in the r200 lsd, after cleaning it up and putting in my ron tyler diff mount. Also, still waiting on my 200-4r to come back from being rebuilt/upgraded.

[nullbound]

Got my lsd installed, along with AZC components and RT mount. I thought this would go quicker than it did, but hit a few snags here and there. Since this car is a 260, I had the annoying exhaust hanger to deal with before I could put in the RT mount. I also had a little trouble getting the 280zxt CV joints out of the old diff. Everything came together fine, though I wish I had a little more time to clean and undercoat the rear of the car.

 

AZC parts:

 

Z31 LSD (looked quite clean to start with, but once I started scrubbing, there was a good bit of junk caked on):

 

RT mount (glad I had 2.. 1 fit a little better than the other in this car)

 

Before:

 

 

After:

[nullbound]

I haven't really been able to do much on this project since finding the following:

 

 

The driver side isn't really that bad, but there were a few spots where the floors were pretty thin, especially in the area where my jtr transmission crossmember needs to bolt to the floor.

 

This was the bad side:

 

 

I kind of wish I had found this before I had the car repainted, but oh well. I must point out that it didn't start out looking like this. A previous owner had covered most of the floor pans with fiberglass. It was a pain to get off, but I want my transmission to be mounted safely when the jtr bracket gets bolted to the floor.

 

So, zedd pans and bad dog rails are going in. It took me a while to find someone locally I trust to do it right. I know some welders locally, but I wanted someone who has actually replaced floor pans before. We talked to the guy who is doing my transmission. He's done floor pans a number of times and has done great work. And, thankfully, he had a slot open at his shop to do my floors today.

 

My transmission rebuild is still pending, but there hasn't really been a rush for that due to the floor situation. I do, however, have a full manual valve body and billet servo on order.

 

Also, I sold my weld wheels. My 260 was looking way too much like my 240, so they had to go. More on that later.

Edited July 2, 2010 by nullbound

[SmoothZ]

I just finished reading your thread. I'm going to admit that I will be saving this and following it as a guide to rebuilding my 260, which I just acquired. I'm basically going to do the same thing as far as stripping the car down and getting rid of as much rust as possible. I want to do as much of the work as possible before I have it painted. Thanks for the great thread with all the pics.

[nullbound]

I just finished reading your thread. I'm going to admit that I will be saving this and following it as a guide to rebuilding my 260, which I just acquired. I'm basically going to do the same thing as far as stripping the car down and getting rid of as much rust as possible. I want to do as much of the work as possible before I have it painted. Thanks for the great thread with all the pics.

 

Thanks for that. I've been a bit discouraged with this build lately, especially given how it started out as what I thought would be a pretty quick turnaround. I'd like to have been a little better with my pics and details so far, but I usually am more focused on getting the work done. There are more pics in the picasa album in my signature than I've posted here, thought, if that helps.

 

Good luck with your 260 and hope my thread and pics help. I also hope your rust situation isn't like mine.

[SmoothZ]

Thanks for that. I've been a bit discouraged with this build lately, especially given how it started out as what I thought would be a pretty quick turnaround. I'd like to have been a little better with my pics and details so far, but I usually am more focused on getting the work done. There are more pics in the picasa album in my signature than I've posted here, thought, if that helps.

 

Good luck with your 260 and hope my thread and pics help. I also hope your rust situation isn't like mine.

I saw your picasa album. Looks good enough for me. I think I have less rust than yours, but I haven't really taken the guts out of the car yet. I know my floor pans are really bad, but the rest of the car seems pretty decent.

 

One question: That electric hand tool you're using to sand down the paint to the metal is called what? Is that what I need to do the same to my Z to get all the paint off and look for rust and other trouble spots?

Edited July 3, 2010 by SmoothZ

[nullbound]

I saw your picasa album. Looks good enough for me. I think I have less rust than yours, but I haven't really taken the guts out of the car yet. I know my floor pans are really bad, but the rest of the car seems pretty decent.

 

One question: That electric hand tool you're using to sand down the paint to the metal is called what? Is that what I need to do the same to my Z to get all the paint off and look for rust and other trouble spots?

 

I've got a dewalt grinder and a dremel with various brushes and cut-off wheels. It really depends on where you're looking for rust, though. For my floor pans, all I used was a magnet (to verify floor, bondo, or fiberglass), a flathead screwdriver, and a small scraper (for removing the jute pad and the sound deadening layer). The dremel seemed to be the most useful for me on this car.

 

My painter used a variety of air tools (needler, cutoff wheels, etc) for removing the rusty metal that he replaced.

[SmoothZ]

So a friend of mine suggested the car go in for an acid bath. Have you ever thought about that or spoke with someone who's had experience with that? Just wondering if it's worth it. I think if I cut out the floor pans, that might be all I need to do.

[nullbound]

So a friend of mine suggested the car go in for an acid bath. Have you ever thought about that or spoke with someone who's had experience with that? Just wondering if it's worth it. I think if I cut out the floor pans, that might be all I need to do.

 

I haven't thought of doing that with any of mine so far...

[nullbound]

Here's the progress made in the previous few weekends:

 

Got the Zedd findings floors and Bad Dog framerails and subframe connectors installed by a local guy that has replaced floors in quite a few cars. The installer coated them with bedliner, but was running low. I need to go back over them since he missed several spots or only covered very lightly. I might use por15, but still considering alternatives since por15 is not lung-friendly.

 

 

 

Weld Wheels are sold, so yesterday I installed my 16x8 sportmaxx wheels that used to be on my 280. The car is a bit jeep-like without the drivetrain.

 

 

 

The engine is all back together (lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, and intake). Everything inside was clean and the comp lifters still looked brand new.

 

 

The intake is a little ugly. That intake was on my silver car when I had to park it outside for a few months. Doesn't take long for aluminum to look like this when exposed to the elements.

 

 

Valve covers installed with arp studs and rebuilt 3310 sitting on top:

 

 

I have another set of comp covers, but these will work for now.

 

Powdercoated (by mike at thepowdercoater.com) JTR kit installed on the passenger side with motor mount:

 

 

Same deal on the driver's side:

 

 

I was hoping to start on the wiring today, but it was just too freakin' hot, even in the garage.