z2go Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 On getting fiberglass bodykit parts to match up, I am finding it hard to find any solid info on the process, what works best, and what does not work at all. I'm considering blending the edges, which is what MSA advises in their own instructions that came with their fiberlass body kit, but I am also thinking of using this method, that I found in a post from 2005 from VintageTechZ: <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Here's a way to get a perfect fit for you guys (providing your shop of choice or YOU,are willing to do it). ..........With bumpers off......cut a strip of wax paper long enough to wrap clear across the area where the part will make contact to the body. Tape this in place.Place the part into its final resting place for fitment and use a permanaent marker to give the top outline onto the wax paper.Remove the part. Now use some fiberglass strips wetted out with resin, and place them ON the line (wax paper line) going just about a quarter of an inch over the line and the ends of where the part ends.Let the first layer GEL,then repeat with more strips. Three builds with cloth and mat should suffice for this step. NOW....once the strips of glass has dried,(no longer tacky) Take a 36 grit sander and somewhat smooth out the texture of the glass so there are NO high spots. Reposition your body part...and attatch your newly made flange to your body part(with more glass mat/cloth and resin )that now has a " Body matched" fitment ! Of course all finishing stages are neccasary before final paint. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> This way looks interesting, but I can't figure out how to replicate his instructions without seeing it done... I guess I can't visualize it properly. Any help on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcdavis Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 I generally got really good at doing pop-rivets. With pop-rivets you get a solid mechanical connection between the fiberglass part and the steel body. As opposed to bonding glue, which could become detached over time, and your part could come loose. The challenge is blending the pop-rivets after installation. I found that if you get a drill bit as large as the top of the rivet, and just lightly grind around the smaller pilot hole, you will create a counter-sink hole that the rivet will sink into. Or use a dremel with a round grinding tip. Of course this depends upon the part being thick enough to do this. Once the rivet is in there and expanded, then fill the hole with body filler, and grind it down smooth. If you use enough rivets, they will help pull the fiberglass part in line with the steel body, and hopefully you won't have to do as much filling of gaps, or blending of the edges... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z2go Posted October 15, 2009 Author Share Posted October 15, 2009 I agree with the rivets, I was planning on doing that. The main concern is the gap between the body and the fiberglass, how it comes out of the box, jagged and only partially cut to the shape of the body. Any ideas for that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z2go Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Still looking for any info... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I am by no means a bodyshop expert, but the only way I have found to get parts as you have described to fit, is to trial fit, mark, trim or fill, then to trial fit then repeat until you are either happy with the fit or are frustrated enough to give up with "good enough" I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, but fibreglass parts rarely fit nicely right out of the box, and every vehicle will need different levels of tweaking. Just take your time getting it to fit as tight as possible BEFORE using a bonding process (rivets, fibreglass, bondo etc) This will keep stress levels on the part and your bonds as low as possible. Think of a part being twisted/torqued into place and then holding it there with rivets etc for the next 20 years, being bumped, touched, and further torqued by the chassis natural tendency to move while driving/getting hoisted for repairs etc. What all are you installing? Pics? Goodluck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z2go Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, but fibreglass parts rarely fit nicely right out of the box, and every vehicle will need different levels of tweaking. Just take your time getting it to fit as tight as possible BEFORE using a bonding process (rivets, fibreglass, bondo etc) This will keep stress levels on the part and your bonds as low as possible. Think of a part being twisted/torqued into place and then holding it there with rivets etc for the next 20 years, being bumped, touched, and further torqued by the chassis natural tendency to move while driving/getting hoisted for repairs etc. What all are you installing? Pics? Goodluck. I definitely agree with you on that fiberglass is by no means cut to fit. I'm installing the MSA type III kit, and the only pieces that fit at all like they should are the skirts... I'm going to try my hardest to get them to fit before fastening, your logic on that was what I thought all along too. I'm really looking to see if there is a particular technique that works best to keep the headache to a minimum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlienJedi Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 You definantly want to get the fit close likeZR8ED said or you may get cracking later on. Body work should always be saved for a cool day that you don't mind sitting around doing a lot of work for very little gain . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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