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CD Player kit for a 78 280z? Do they exist?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Now that my 280z is running great, I need to get some music in her. Does anyone make a wiring kit and dash kit to install one? If so, where do I snag them from? Thanks.

 

Chris

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Guest 240hybrid

Wiring a head unit into a 280 isnt hard if you have some simple eletirical knowledge. Pretty much just have to feed the power, run a ground,hookup antenna and speakers. The part I had alittle trouble with was wiring in the memory wire. Instructions along with the CD player should give you all the info. on how to do the install. As for a face plate/area around unit....I was lucky enough to have a 280 where the console had been cut to fit in a newer unit. I would think a high rpm cutter would work to start and a razor knife to clean it up, if that much alterations is necessary to fit you new player in. I havent seen a kit for early Zcars yet. Just some simple fabrication and patience is all you prob. need. Good luck 2thumbs.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

most new player are DIN size. There is enough room on the stock console.. you do need to cut a DIN size hole (where stereo faceplate sits) take the console out for this. I would think that most newer stereos would have a sheet with the instructions for exact size hole to cut in the console.. It is a fairly tight fit..not much extra plastic in the consol left..so you need to be careful that you don't break the plastic. I used a metal DIN mounting plate from my stereo to attach at the backside of the console to give it more support. (not sure if all stereos come with this plate or not.. (I originally did this 10 years ago)

 

I currently have a new Sony CD/MP3 player in the car. Fits well, and only skips on the harshest of bumps on the road.

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Guest JAMIE T

Kenwood made a shaft type head unit that controlled a cd changer. That would be the way to go if you don't want to cut the console. I don't know if it is still in production though.

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I have a 280z 2+2.

 

FWIW: when you purchase a CD-Player the component will come w/a cord that plugs into the CD-Player and the other end plugs in the back of your Stereo Unit. The CD-Players are powered directly from the Stereo's Head Unit.

 

Kenwood CD-Players are compatible w/most newer Kenwood Head Units as all Stereo mfg's will always make their own CD-Players compatible w/their components and not components from another mfg. The two components must be capable of interfacing w/one another to function properly-this interfacing is accomplished w/the use of the cord that comes w/the CD-Player. There are adaptor wires for non-compatible components but most stereo retail stores dont recomment this.

 

This is what I did. I bought a newer Kenwood system, Kenwood CD player, 200watt Kenwood Amp. and an Amp kit from Walmart along w/a Stereo Head Adapter kit from Walmart....turns out I didnt need the Adapter kit afterall.

 

You do have to remove the console to fit the head unit. I did not use the Adapter kit due to the Z's HVAC system being located directly behind the stereo: there wasnt any room for my hands to maneuver behind the Head Unit-thus I was forced to secure the unit at the sides. The strapping I used was the metal strapping you get in a new stereo kit: this strapping is the strapping you are suppose to use to secure the rear of the head unit to minimize movement/bouncing. I had to use two of these straps; usually you only get one in a kit: luckily I had a few left over from previous stereo's I had purchased.

 

In order to attach the metal strapping from the side of the Head Unit & have its face flush w/the console I had to drill two small holes in the side of the Receiver in order to secure the Head Unit from the sides to the console: (BE VERY VERY CAREFUL TO DRILL EXTREMELY SLOWLY HERE; if you go to fast you may go to far-ruining your new Stereo Unit).

 

As far as wiring the power wire (to the amp) run that wire directly to the battery through the HVAC Vaccum line's hole just below & inward of the battery at the firewall. As far as the stereo's memory wire simply locate a wire that isnt being used that has power w/the key off & tap into that.

 

I dont smoke so I used my cigarette wire to power my Power Antenna and put a manual Power Antenna switch on my console opposite the Rear Defogger Switch. This area on my Console was a blank that simply needed to be pried upward w/a flathead screwdriver. Remove the blank & install a similar switch purchased from Pepboys, Autozone, Walmart or any other retail electrcial supply store.

 

TIME-SAVER: Before you buy that Power Antenna switch-remove your Rear Defogger switch after you have removed the entire Console. Now, once you have this switch in hand take it with you to match it's width/length to the newer switch you will be purchasing. I chose a switch for the Power Antenna so that if/when I do go thru an auto Car Wash I can lower my antenna therefore not having to worry about forgetting your antenna is up & being damaged by the Car Wash which often occurs w/a non-power antenna.

 

I Put the CD player under the Driver's seat & the amplifier under the Passenger's Seat. The CD-player gets its power from the Stereo Receiver so you dont have to worry about locating a wire for power or where to ground it; but the Receiver and Amplifier can both be ground at the same spot. I grounded both mine off the same screw just under the carpet at the base of the Passenger seat next to the transmission tunnel.

 

I'm pushing three years now on my system & I've only had to replace one item since the instal; the item I replaced was the amp.fuse at the battery.

 

About the speakers, I used the factory speaker ( my car is a 2+2) but opened up the 4" hole to fit a 6" speaker. Opening the 4" holes to 6" holes was probably the hardest most time consuming part. You do have to remove the trim panels to do this. While the trim pannels were off I also ran two speaker lines to the rear for base speakers for the future....the base speaker thing has not taken place for me yet, but the wires are laying there when the need arrises.

 

BTW: I always wrap my stereo wires w/electrical black tape to ensure they are always protected. A little anal retentive perhaps-but an ounce of safety means no surprises years down the line.

 

If you do have to remove the trim panels be carefule w/the removal of said trim panels at the window & door....they will have Black Gummy Sealant that gets on everything and is next to impossible to remove (Have Plenty of Towels On Hand!!). Do not touch the Sealant w/your hands/fingers-you will end up w/Sealant Finger Prints everywhere.

 

Hope that helps to get you started.

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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