eugene Posted July 16, 2001 Share Posted July 16, 2001 Still having difficulty finding a reasonably priced 700R4 tailhousing with rear mount location. What about this: weld another piece of 3/8" steel perpendicular to the JTR crossmember. This would allow the crossmember to be positioned far back enough to use the "humps" for exhaust clearance. I figure the difference in mount locations is only about 4 inches or so? I can't imagine you'd have any problems with the crossmember flexing, and it'd be a hole lot cheaper than buying the part from a dealer! What do you guys think? Is this doable? Has it already been done? This is also making me think of something else. What about the hood latch? After drilling out the spot welds, couldn't you just move the latch over a bit to allow HEI clearance, then just move the catch over to match the latch? Any opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 16, 2001 Share Posted July 16, 2001 I was wondering the same. I don't see why you can't cantellever (sp?) a piece forward if its welded securely. If its butt welded to the JTR mount just make sure it gets a lot of amperage and good penetration so it does'nt crack off, just to be safe I'd probably add a gusset or two as well. Unless the 700r has something causing a interference I don't see why it wouldn't work. As far as moving the latch check Pete Paraska's site out he did that very thing and it works fine. http://members.home.net/pparaska/ Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted July 16, 2001 Share Posted July 16, 2001 A short write up and picture of this latch shuffle is at: ttp://members.home.net/pparaska/Enginemount.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 1, 2001 Share Posted August 1, 2001 my biggest problem with jtr is that you have to smash the hell out of the floor board. I don't modify with a sledge. I want a mount that allows exhaust clearace that you don't have to force in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 1, 2001 Share Posted August 1, 2001 You can section the mount in three places and it goes right in, Blkmgk did that and his I guess went in there pretty sweet. I did have to hammer it, it takes quite a pounding, but in reality you can't see where its been done unless you are looking for it, it ends up being just forward of the seats on the inside edge of the tunnel. I sent word to JTR about it and I'm sure Mike Knell knows about it. I'm not sure with a 700r how much pounding it requires really, I know with the T56 it required a good 2+ inches on each side of sort of rolling the metal back (denting it, but basically get the dent started and then just keep it moving). Some people have also just notched and filled that area, but as I say its not real noticable. The alternative is to just make one, probably with the right kinda heat and maybe a press it could be bent, probably wouldn't need to be as wide (fore and aft) as JTR uses. *shrug* I also had looked at using the 'Double hump' mustang rear crossmember, but couldn't find dimensions on it, it would require brackets on each side for a bolt that runs through a isolator to hold the X member in place. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 1, 2001 Share Posted August 1, 2001 Yes, I sectioned mine. Pics are on my site. Required a nasty chop saw, some grinding, and a good welder - not me When done I actually wished that I had sectioned it more! It still required a little push to get up there but overall there was no bashing. with the exception of cutting out the old trans mount my tunnel is pretty much unmolested with a T56 in there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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