Some run-ability issues

[Maverick101]

this is for a 1973 240z bone stock

 

So here's the issue... Supposedly the cars entire drive train was rebuilt but when i start the car i get a rough idle without choke and dies with acceleration and it runs smooth with choke but a hi idle and it will accelerate but dies before any work gets done. I found a couple of vacuum leaks so far and fixed them with some good results but ultimately the engine still exudes the same symptoms. Also in order for the engine to run at all the distributor has to be moved all the way counter-clockwise (im guessing advanced) in order to even start and run. ALSO the ignition coil gets hot....not like "haha that tickles its warm", i mean this sucker is hot. I have not checked the points nor the bowl levels on the carburetors. I'm mostly posting this to get a collection of ideas to form a checklist for the weekend when i start to really dive into the engine bay. Thanks in advance everyone.

[Maverick101]

here's an update:

 

so i gapped the points and the "hot" ignition coil went away but i have the same run-ability issues. Turns out while i was letting it idle on choke, the back carburetors (closest to the firewall) was leaking gas out of the float bowl. Does this mean the float isnt stopping the flow of gas and it's flooding the corresponding 3 cylinders? i was looking in the manual and i didnt see any mention to an overflow bleed off that would indicate the float bowl is over filling. I should mention that i used a vise grip to pinch the fuel line to that specific float bowl and after about 45 seconds it started running smoother. One last question, to set the float's level am i going to have to take the entire carb assembly off or do they come off by themselves?

[Apex944]

The answers to your last post can be easily found by searching.

 

If the float is set correctly and the needle ( I beleive it's the correct peice that the float rests on to allow/block fuel ) isn't clogged with debris the bowl shouldn't overflow out of the overflow tube. Clamping the fuel feed hose with pliers and having the engine smooth out clearly shows the rear 3 cylinders are being flooded by the carb.

 

Do a quick search on how to setup the SU carb's and there should be some good info on getting them setup correctly.

 

Also if you haven't already done so check out ztherapy.com, they have a video on how to rebuild and setup the SU carbs. I don't know if the '73 flat top carbs are the exact same but they should be similar to the early round top's but I don't know for sure.

 

The float bowl can be taken off by itself without removing the entire carburetor but again that's assuming it's similar to the early round tops.

[Maverick101]

Another update:

 

So here's the deal, I replaced the points and condensor with a remarkable improvement. However, after the engine idles, or i put any real work load on it, it starts to die again. After spending a couple hours surfing the web (while waiting for autocad class to start) i found,completely by chance, that i have a little silver component that is not hooked up to anything in my car, the ballast resistor. I didnt know what it was when i saw it just sitting there on the wheel-well so it never struck me as something important to dive head first into but now when i return home i'll be trying to hook it up properly to see if it fixes my runability issue. In retrospect, i remember seeing the steel arm holding the old point's surface had a color change (blue like when you anneal metal or harden it) and the surface extremely pitted. My theory and i havent had a chance to test it yet, is that my car has been frying points because the ballast resistor is not properly hooked up.

[Maverick101]

Final Update: