Best Z32 swap.

[560zx]

I just recently bought a 95 n/a manual 300zx. Im not a real big fan of the VG30de/VG30dett Im more of a V8 type of guy. Everywhere I go I ask around about the Nissan Titan and the Q45 engines. I know both will fit inside the 300zx but I want to know which has the biggest aftermarket, and wont burn my pockets for labor. My original plan was to get a Q45 and twinturbo it but I found a crashed nissan titan, front fender is gone and radiator is damaged but the motor is still good. The owner doesnt want it and is relinquishing it to me for $1,500 dollars which should I consider.......Vq45/vk56????

 

Also, I know I would need to buy a Twinturbo Z tranny to handle the torque of these monsters or could I keep the stock tranny????

 

Need help guys!!! Someone was telling me to just throw in a Inline 6 rb26 or 2jz motor and call it a day...but thats not where my heart is.....

 

 

Im kinda on a budget I got like around 4k to spend on the engine and swap.

[AkumaNoZeta]

If you're a big V8 fan then I bet you know the "no replacement for displacement" rule. You mention "burn my pockets for labor". I think both those V8s are the same size so the labor for the swap would probably be the same.

[560zx]

True. and I have considered it but, looking at it from my perspective...

 

Vq45 engines run from $300-1500

Vk56de (from the crashed titan is running me) $1500

 

That leaves me around $2,500 for labor. Will that be enough??? and I f I did decide to go through with it, would i need to buy a TT tranny? or just keep the stock?

[560zx]

Should I just consider the TTVg30 and spend all the money on that???

[dts300z]

HM. To be honest I don't know of a shop that would actually be able to do that swap for $2500. It may seem reasonable but there are quite a few variables to take in consideration no matter what engine you choose.

 

For example I have done a few swaps over the years and not one of them cost under $4000 by the time it was drivable and reliable and that is doing the labor myself. I may have done one a little cheaper but not much if at all.

 

If you are seriously considering a swap in the Z32 you should do as much research as possible to determine your best route. If you look in the sticky at the top of this thread there is more than ample information to help you make a decision. I understand if you keep the stock tranny the back half of the swap is done but you still don't have mounts, no wiring (this is a big one) and no creature comforts (another big one) <--- that includes A/C, PS, Heat. You also need to determine if the radiator will be efficient enough and will it work in the factory location. Sorry for rambling...

 

To answer your question about the transmission, I would think the stocker would be fine.

 

Here to help!

 

Dan

[DPRACING]

They where using the VG30DETT in Autobac's Super GT series GT500 cars up until the new Skyline. If we are talking about maximum racing potential, the VG30DETT would still be the one.

[Jehannum]

They where using the VG30DETT in Autobac's Super GT series GT500 cars up until the new Skyline. If we are talking about maximum racing potential, the VG30DETT would still be the one.

They're not cheap to extract power from, though.

 

I didn't do any kind of swap when my Z32tt blew up.

 

I spent:

$2500 in machine work and bottom end reassembly including:

1) Wiseco 88mm pistons (dry film lubed skirts and ceramic coated faces)

2) ARP hardware (rod, main, and head studs)

3) .020" overbore

4) New clevite 77 bearings

5) cleaned up heads (valve job, milled flat)

6) cleaned up oil pump (just a check for wear)

 

$5000 in supporting equipment, including

1) MLS head gaskets

2) big SMICs

3) 740cc fuel injectors w/adapters

4) complete 120k mile timing belt kit (water pump, cam/crank seals, tensioners, idlers, idler studs, VTC springs, drive belts)

5) GT28R turbos (sold as the Z1 GT600R kit)

6) 5 bolt downpipes (since the turbine housings are 5 bolt instead of the stock T22 4 bolt)

7) replacement hoses (silicone in as many places as made sense)

8) new clutch, new hydraulics

9) Wideband O2 gauge (a must if you're not swapping to an aftermarket EMS)

10) Koyo radiator w/hard pipe instead of the giant floppy stocker

11) chrome hard pipes instead of the (deteriorated to the point of not holding air) stock rubber ones.

12) all the little **** you'll end up running out to NAPA for in the middle of the project (full gasket set, injector pigtails, various small pigtails, RTV, etc).

 

...and that's taking my own labor as a $0 addition. I'd say that if you can get out with a V8 for near $4k and you have no affinity for the VG, pull the trigger on that in a heartbeat.

 

It's fine to think you're going to just swap the VG out of a front clip in, but there's too much that you can't do without pulling the motor, and a whole host of reliability issues with the VG that bite you in the ass when trying to make power (at least, > 300HP) on the stock turbos.

Edited March 19, 2010 by Jehannum