Guest Anonymous Posted August 3, 2001 Share Posted August 3, 2001 Hey, its me again. I got a free 350 originally from a Nova, now in an '83 Camaro. The only aluminum on the entire engine is the intake and the water pump. I would like to install it into my '79 280ZX, but my question is, is it advisable to put in anyways, despite its heaviness? I cannot afford a new crate engine, or even ONE aluminum head. Is it still possible to do the conversion, without any problems? (BTW, I have no idea how many horsepower this thing has, I got it for free, along with an old 4 speed transmission) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 do you by chance got the JTR manual yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 Sure, aluminum doesn't 'prevent' problems, just raises handling a notch if you drive it that hard. You'll still have no more than 52% weight on the front. A gasket/camkit could be worthwhile but you can do all that after install if you want more power and have dough at that time. I had same aluminum you do and was ~52% front and now with more aluminum and other alterations I've got a rear-weight bias and lighter than OEM. But I"ve driven at lapping days etc in all V8 configurations and always enjoyed it let alone the other 365 days a year it's been driven your find is a great way to get it converted and have it driveable....as $ or interest allows you can then alter anything PS did you ever get to drive or experience that motor and trans running? Be a bummer to do all that work and have it be a total dud if their's no budget for big surprises... [ August 03, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 No, I dont have the JT manual yet, but I was planning on saving for it, along with a factory service manual for my '75 280Z (I'm only putting a V8 in my ZX because the engines blown) And I havnt actually driven in it, I've just rode in it...I'm only 15 and can't quite legally drive yet, but I wanna have a killer car when I get my REAL license. The engine runs, but does need rebuilt, but what do you expect for free? And it also comes with a Turbo 350 transmission. Are those very good for V8 z's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 Only 15? Right on James! Get started early on this insanity. If you were older and richer I'd say look for another tranny. But you're 15, so you're broke. Just like all of us were when we were 15. So bolt it together and have fun. Save your bucks and improve it as you learn. Got a Dad or uncle to help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 Heh...I liked Z's since I was 12 I got my first one a few weeks ago for $200 cause the guy said it overheated and died (Gee, maybe it was because he didnt have any gaskets on the thermostat housing...) and I bought the '79 from my dad for $20, but it had a blown engine, which is why I am gonna put a V8 in it What transmission would you recommend? I may be poor but I have access to lots and lots of cheap parts When I get some cash, I wanna put some aluminum heads on it. Anyone know of any cheap ones (for a pair that is)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 James, Although they aren't aluminum, the Chevy Vortec cast iron heads are the best bang for the buck. They are less than $500 for the pair from places like Scoggin Dickey Chevrolet, or Jim Pace etc. They flow better than the LT1 Al heads or even the ZZ4 heads. They have a different inlet bolt pattern, so you will have to get a new inlet (Edelbrock makes the RPM Performer and from either of the two places, they are only around $115). They have a 64cc combustion chamber, and if you want to run a hot cam you can order the upgraded heads for about $650. In a recent article, these heads with the above intake made 409hp, with only 9.4:1 compression! (see Sept Issue of Chevy High Performance.) I am running these heads on my '71 Chevy truck and am very pleased with them. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 Oh, as for the transmission, if you're not running serious HP, then the 200R4 is a good choice. It is the same overall size as the TH 350 and has a nice deep overdrive. The torque converter locks in 4th,and although the lock up is electronically controlled, there is a simple wiring exercise, which will lock it up as soon as it shifts to 4th. I have an article somewhere, written by Gene of Autorite Transmissions in Burbank, CA on how to cross the wires. (If you are interested, I can find you the article or get you Gene's number.)These transmissions came on a bunch of Chevys and Buicks and have a universal bell housing bolt pattern, so will bolt up to just about any GM small block. They are easier to find at junk yards than the 700R4, because all the Cabbies and hot rod dudes snatch them up. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 Well, my dad has a 700R4 but he was going to put in in his Camaro in place of the Turbo 350 (Which is why hes giving it to me...He doesn't have any other use for it). He also said he thinks that engine is only about 175 horsepower, but I'm guessing its gotta have SOME power to make an automatic transmission peel out He told me to buy a better cam and some higher comperssion pistons and the engine would be alot more powerful. I kinda lucked out on getting that '79 Z for $20 cause its COMPLETLY rust free frame wise, and only has minor surface rust around the driver side quarter panel. Anyways, what would you guys recommend me get to beef my engine up that won't cost me an arm and a leg? Will just a better cam and higher compression pistons do the trick? Anything else I should consider to make is a more powerful engine? Also, will the stock frame hold all this extra weight/power without bending or twisting? And is it REALLY neccessary to get the JTR manual? I DO plan on it but I figure since you guys probably all have one, I could just have a V8 swap with you guys' help only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 4, 2001 Share Posted August 4, 2001 James, Obviously compression has something to do with the equation, but you'll find that most of your power gains come from the top end - heads, cam, and inlet, and headers are of course a given. Put your money towards your heads, 'cause that is where you will realise the most power gains. The setup on my truck, mentioned above, cost me less than $1500.00 and puts out in the range of 375 hp. Used an L82 corvette cam grind and a HEI distributer. Works really nicely. A stock bottom end will handle it as long as you don't RPM the engine. The power comes in early, so there is no need to rev the hell out of it. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 5, 2001 Share Posted August 5, 2001 James, buy the JTR manual--you'll be glad you did. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Night_rider_383 Posted August 5, 2001 Share Posted August 5, 2001 James.... The other guys is right the top end is where most of your power can be found. Heads main thing bud, With out a set of good heads an engine aint gonna do nothing for you. While the heads is off you can bump up the compression some by useing thinner head gaskets with smaller bores, This will bump up your power too cause of the higher compression.Most rebuilds fel-pro head gaskets is used. They have a bore of 4.166'' and .041'' thick. If you use the sce copper 4.060'' bore .031'' thick gaskets that will bump it up alot plus the copper will seal better and only run you $69.39 from summit. For the cam heres my pic for a streeter that you aint wanting the 100% max hp out off. crane power-max 204/216@.050'' cam this has a valve lift of .427''/.454'' or the crane power max 216/228@.050'' with a lift of .454''/.480''. Both of these in summit will run you $150 for the cam kit (cam, lifters, moly lube, brake in lube, lock plate) and both will give great streetable power, Match that with a edelbrock performer or performer rpm intake and a 600 cfm carb and you'll have one killer of a street engine for a z car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 5, 2001 Share Posted August 5, 2001 rust free????? (shadowy figure in dark overcoar and blues brothers shades) pssssst...kid....comehere...waddaya say I slip you here this 400 bills and ya forget you ever saw the Z.....HEH HEH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 5, 2001 Share Posted August 5, 2001 HAHAHAHA TIM240z is talkin about the MEDIUM-RARE MOUSE hehehe i have the article right here by the computer and i was actually thinking of going with the same thing when i get underway. Anyway yeah I think you totaly need to get the JTR Manual. I mean for 35 bucks (thats with shipping included) you get tons of information. The manual in one way or another probably answers all the questions youve asked here already. It basicaly walks you thru the whole process so how could you go wrong with that for only 35 bucks? Anyway i think its pretty cool that you got this much ambition to do an engine swap at 15. I'm 19 and after getting half way thru the manual I had realize what im getting myself involved with because i guess any engineswap is a pretty big deal. But because we are so young i see it as a good thing, 1. we dont have any wives to complain about the time and money we spend, 2. we are young so we are allowed to make a few mistakes, and 3. because we are young nobody will think twice about us doing such a crazy thing. anyway good luck on the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted August 5, 2001 Share Posted August 5, 2001 James, buy the JTR manual--you'll be glad you did. Davy Why retype. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 5, 2001 Share Posted August 5, 2001 Heehee....Frame wise, its COMPLETLY rust free, but theres a tiny bit around the antenna mount. But I guess it looks like the JTR manual is a must buy. So much for trying to save $40 So then first on my list is to buy better heads. I need to find some GOOD heads that will let me use the intake I already have, cause I'm gonna have a hard enough time getting the money for ONE head lol. I don't think I am going to buy a kit to put a 350 in...My dad has made motor mounts plenty of times, made his own custom driveshaft, and has done all kinds of work on cars, and my uncle actually has a job as a mechanic, so I think I've got it made So, on my list of upgrade, it should go like this: Better heads Better cam Higher compression I wanna keep my aluminum intake and Holly 4 barrel carb...Sentimental value Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 6, 2001 Share Posted August 6, 2001 Way to go! It is great to see young guys who are interested in worthwhile pursuits where they can better themselves and have fun at the same time. I too got started with cars at your age and have learned skills which have carried over into my professional life. Anyway, just a note about compression. For every point of compression raised you only gain about 3 to 4 percent more power. For example, if your stock engine makes 200 horse at 9.0 to 1 compression and you raise it to 10.0 to 1 you will only gain a maximum of 8 horsepower. (This is straight out of Chevy High Performance magazine) Raising to 11.0 to 1 will gain 16 horsepower and so on. However, you will then have to use high octane fuel to avoid detonation. Point is, raising compression isn't always necessary or a good thing, especially if it is going to cost alot of dough. However, if you have to spend the money anyway, bumping the compression a little will make power and as a side benefit will usually net you better gas mileage. That same 16 horsepower or more can usually be gained by making sure the carb and ignition are properly tuned or by going to a different exhaust system. Learning to tune the engine for power can be fun and gain you a wealth of knowledge as well. Just my .02. Have a great time with your Z! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Adkins Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 In my opinion, a good stock small block Chevy and a Turbo 350 trans would be a great way to get started with a hybrid Z car.... As you learn more and get more experienced and save up money, you can add more HP by adding high performance parts... and maybe a T56 someday.... A stock 350 Chevy would be about what, 250 hp, right? Enough horsepower to be fun, but not too dangerous for a new driver.... [ August 06, 2001: Message edited by: John Adkins ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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