Guest JAMIE T Posted January 27, 2001 Share Posted January 27, 2001 O.K. KIDS, the question for today is, should Jamie buy a fairly rough Z for $200. It is a 76 280Z with a rebuilt engine (I don't need the engine). It has had some repair done (a long time ago) and has been sitting for @4 years, but has been started and driven up and down the guys street. It is a stick shift car. When I went to look at it he could not find the keys. He is also the original owner. The tires were low on air so I could only see a little ways under it. I did look at the front frame rails were I could see them, they had what looked like surface rust but no holes that I could see. Interiorer was very rough. There were some dents in the quarters and it had been brush painted with marine paint. It also had a sunroof. Now remember that I'm going to build a 250 GTO with whatever Z I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dats Posted January 27, 2001 Share Posted January 27, 2001 you would probably have to do some kind of suspension work but go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 $200 for a running Z is a gimme. I've bought $100 and $200 cars for the sole intention of taking them off-roading and wrecking them. A $100 or $200 vehicle can easily make more entertainment than a $100 or $200 bar tab! ------------------ Morgan http://z31.com/~morgan/s30 http://carfiche.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 The problem with the front frame rails is that they rust from the inside, which makes it hard to tell how bad they are. A screwdriver pressed against it should be the first test, especially above the sway bar mount. Same goes for the rockers. I'll tell you fixing all that (and the other places it would have if these are bad) is a long, depressing process. Let's just say I lived it and never wish to again! [This message has been edited by pparaska (edited January 27, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 thanks for the tip pete, the rockers are rusted at both ends, and the front fenders also(about were they meet the rocker, the car will definitly need to be sanded to the metal due to the boat paint crap, was even considering sandblasting the really rough areas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 The rocker panels are the frame as well in these cars. The way I test vehicles when I do provincial inspections for the Govt. is to tap with a small ball peen hammer to see if it dents easily. The price is fair and I would alredy own it if it was my deal. My 0.02 cents yet again. My wife saya I have a lot of loose change! LOL ------------------ The only stupid question is one you wanted to ask but never did!!! Drewz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 Thanks DREWZ, I think I am going to pick the car up today!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 I agree with Drew, the rocker box is the main connection in the lower part of the passenger compartment in most unibody cars. That's why the rust in the ends of these is so bad, alot of it is from the flexing/rusting/flexing more routine. Very important area. I rebuilt the front and rear of the inner rockers once I cut the outers off. I also added subframe connectors to add stiffness. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted January 28, 2001 Share Posted January 28, 2001 My advice Jamie is to really think about this hard. Bodywork and such is th ehardest part of doing this swap - it costs bunches too. I popped $3K for a car that I thought needed little bodywork. In the end I found a bunch of rust. When I finally got a bodyshop estimate they wanted close to $4K just for starters! I looked around and ofund a car that had almost no rust, a perfect interior, and some good parts that I'll be able to sell when I do my swap. Cost was $5K - almost what the previus car's bodywork would've cost and I know that price would've climbed. I ended up parting that previous car out as much as I could and giving it to Mikelly for $100 hoping that he'd be able to build his second car with it. Don't make the same mistake I did! Buy a nice car for your swap if possible. This $200 car might be good for parts if nothing else but don't throw away good money if you can help it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 29, 2001 Share Posted January 29, 2001 I'd always buy the best body closest to what I want with little to no regard for mechanics. mechanical work can come cheap and easy if you have some time and are willing to learn....body work/welding etc is a whole different endeavour IMO. The mechanics I apply to all our vehicles.....I have no desire to learn bodywork although welding would be handy but can't say it'd be economically justified unless you have a brother like Mike Kelly's ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted January 29, 2001 Share Posted January 29, 2001 Sounds like Pete did the same setup as mine. Jus' a side note here, my floor pan is now 18ga. steel and the frame rails are one piece front to back and are 14ga. Good luck bud!!! ------------------ The only stupid question is one you wanted to ask but never did!!! Drewz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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