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Stopping rust inside good frame rails


Guest Locutus

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Guest Locutus

In the engine compartment the frame rails are still intact and strong but I know these things rust from the inside out. What can be done to prevent further damage in the future with out having to replace the frame rails front to back? Is there something I can spray in there to stop any rust that is already there? I was considering structural foam to stiffen it up a little more as well as welding the seams, etc, but I want to make sure I eliminate and likely hood of rust making its way thru.

 

 

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

How about this?

Pour some POR15 in there, the stuff flows very well, and bottle it up in the frame rail. Then go drive like a bat out of...

Well, you know smile.gif

 

Seriously, I have pondered this very thing. What about cutting a large enough access hole from the inside of the car. Perhaps between the front and rear seat mounts? Then you could apply whatever you want. Perhaps put in some rust converter, spray it out, degreaser, etc., and then choice of coating. It would allow application from the top of the rail and just remove the plugs on the bottom for drainage. Would that work? I know this is stretching it but humor me.

 

Craig

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Guest Locutus

Well rust converter was something I was considering, but does it work, and what is a good brand. Second is the issue of coverage, How do you get a good coverage on the inside. This also applies to the floor rails I am replacing to stiffen the chasis. After all that work I do not want them to rust.

 

Mike

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One Step seem to work well - it's from Marhyde. I had access to the interior of th erail on my parts car - I was trying to save that car so I poured some POR in there and blew it around with an air gun. Best I could think of at the time (sigh). This is a really tough problem!

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Guest Anonymous

That is a pretty good solution; air gun. What I meant earlier is just pour a bunch of POR15 in there, bottle up the frame rail and then go for a very spirited drive. That would help get that POR15 on all the surfaces. POR15 flows incredibly well and covers easily. Heck, too much sure won't hurt.

Harbor Freight sells fairly cheap airbrush setups. Maybe they could be used to spray the POR in there and then just throw them away.

Boy, are we extremists or what? wink.gif

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How about a rust treatment gun/wand setup and use either the wax/oil stuff or POR-15? Eastwood Company sells the gun/wand thing fairly cheap and it has different tips for spraying ahead, behind and to the side of the tip.

 

For the front rails, drill a hole in the transverse lower "tube" that's directly in front of the rail end. You need to drill another hole in the back side of that transverse "tube" Now you're inside the frame rail and can use the wand.

 

For the floor board rail, drill a hole in the floor every 6" and use the sideways shooting wand tip.

 

Use a good sealer to put plugs in all the holes.

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Guest Locutus

Por-15, is it a rust converter, or rust stopper. Since prep work on the inside of an existing frame rail is negligable can it be sprayed right on there?

 

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

Both POR15 and Corroless are made to be applied right over rust. Corroless has some rust conversion qualities whereas POR15 is a NON-POROUS coating that uses moisture to cure. POR15 simply takes air out of the equation for making more rust. I would probably choose POR15 because it spreads so well and seems to have a "wetting" quality. I have not personally used Corroless but assume that it is more like paint. I think either would be fine because, let's face it, there is nothing there now.

Pete: good idea on the Eastwood wand. That would work well. I would probably opt to do something like that, let it cure over a couple of days and then come back and pour a bunch of extra coating in there. It can't hurt, right?

Folks, this is exactly why I have halted all real work on my current Z and am trying to get a hold of a rotisserie (My current Z is just my guinea pig for things to come) I want to put a chassis up on that sucker and rust proof it; ESPECIALLY underneath. I also want to be able to weld up seams that may be working loose or allowing water into the subframe.

Just bought a pretty good MIG welder, too. I have to learn to use it but then the fun begins.

 

Craig

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