Guest John Adkins Posted November 29, 2000 Share Posted November 29, 2000 Hey guys, Check this out: http://www.clubcobra.com/raymond.htm A Cobra Daytona Coupe replica kit for Z cars, kind of like the Ferrari replica. I really like the front end design. Does anybody know any more about this kit? Is it still available? Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyind Posted December 9, 2000 Share Posted December 9, 2000 Look like the dog might be a Chevy fan and is getting ready to let the owner know what he really things about a F@rd... LOL ------------------ Z U V8ter http://cyind.com Rspencer@satx.rr.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted February 10, 2001 Share Posted February 10, 2001 There was a company in central California called "Puckett Auto Design" that made those Ferrari GTO replicas and the Ford Daytona Cobra replicas on Z chassis. I have a 5-yr-old price guide and catalog somewhere. He built about 5-6 cars a year and they sold for $32,000 ea. Not bad for a Datsun Z. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 16, 2001 Share Posted February 16, 2001 Funny you should mention Puckett I was thinking of posting a message In an old Kit Car magazine aug 96 they mention a longer 94" custom welded frame with racing suspension can you fill me in on what type of frame was made(stretched z frame or tube chassis? ) and what was the racing suspension? after seeing pete's site I am really torn of how I want to pursue my project. as for Z/Ferrari rebodies see a kit car site such as kitcar.com I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 I have the Puckett Assmenbly manual for the 4" wheelbase s-t-r-e-t-c-h. Haven't taken the plunge yet. Nope- no tube frame required! It's pretty clever. But it is for kits only since you couldn't use the stock front sheetmetal with the front wheels 4" farther forward. Since the mounting bolt holes for the front crossmember are almost 4" apart, they just slide it forward so the front frame hole aligns with the rear crossmember hole. Steering geometry remains intact and square with the frame rails. Underneath: Drill 2 more holes for the front crossmember, 4 more holes for the anti-sway bar clamps, and lengthen the T-C rods. In the engine bay: New(!) motor mounts weld to the frame rails, cut off the horns on the crossmember. Then it gets hairy.... you cut the inner fenders with the strut towers, slide them 4" forward, weld, and patch the holes with sheetmetal. I wondered if this is really neccessay, the handling might benefit from the increased caster? Then lengthen the steering column with a 4" splice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 17, 2001 Share Posted February 17, 2001 In reference to Trevors reply, he is correct in the improvement in handling with the increased caster. I increased the caster on my Z to about 7 degrees by moving the crossmember forward 1.25 inches. I found with this set-up that the wheel has a favorable increase in negative camber as the wheel is being turned vs the OEM 3 degrees. This allowed me to only use 1/2 degree of static negative camber, which allowed better straight line braking verses the 1 degree (plus) I was running previously. Simple job of welding an 1/8" steel plate over part of the crossmember that makes contact with the frame rails. Then re-drilled the holes 1.25" rearward, adding a short lip all the way around the un-reinforced (exposed) part of the new plate (for strength) , and then mounted it up. Obviously the T/C rod had to be lenghened too. Results: dramatically improved turn-in, and resetting up the car due to the increased oversteer. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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