BLKMGK Posted February 25, 2001 Share Posted February 25, 2001 I got up under the car today to remove my trans mounts. I'm finally readying the car for test fitting the T56! I don't have a grinding disk for my angle grinder, it's always been used with a wire wheel so I started with a Sawzall. Nope, I couldn't get the bulky tool close enough to the tunnel to do much good, I was really stuck! Then I recalled my recent $13 purchase from Northern Freight that I'd found usefull removing control arm bushings. It's a CHEAP pneumatic chisel! I fired that puppy up and managed to get the mounts out VERY easily! No heat from a torch, mostly clean cuts, and except for the noise it didn't take much effort on my part at all. There are gaps you can work the blade into under there and it just zips right off. If you're looking at this job in the near future I'd urge you to get one of these suckers, the price is right! I'll post some new pics up on my site tonight or tomorrow of this. I was shocked at how much easier it was using this tool but it sure is noisy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 25, 2001 Share Posted February 25, 2001 Thanks for posting that. I have to do that still and bought a harbor freight cheap pneumatic chisel as well and was hoping it would come off easy. I used it today to modify a part (long story...) and it worked sweet, I was hoping the old tranny mounts would come off that easy. Thanks, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted February 25, 2001 Share Posted February 25, 2001 I used a hammer and chisel at/near the spot welds where I couldn't get to them with an angle drill motor and spot weld drill. A gas ax, would be easiest, a buddy did it that way. Go for the welds. There are a bunch of spot welds, and some short beads where the stiffener and the actual flanges attach. I left the stiffener (only about 3/4" high) in the tunnel to help with stiffness/ringing of the tunnel sheetmetal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kc6wfs Posted March 3, 2001 Share Posted March 3, 2001 Yo guys, I used a sawzall on mine. I cut the blade down so it had only 1" or so when retracted and did the front side, then put the full length blade on and cut the top and bottom, then pushed and pulled till it broke loose. Took about a hour for both sides. I left the remander for support. If it gives any. Dave ------------------ www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/240z.html www.NitroPhotos.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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