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ignition ping


Markkonschak

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i'm am currently running msII v3.0 with edis 6. every map i load start to ping at higher rpms. at first i thought i just had a rattle but after retarding car it ran so much better. right now i am running l26 with n42 head. new turbo injectors and 240sx throttle body. just installed stock turbo with 3inch downpipe. i would ready like to know why this is happening before i blow another engine. i dont know my compression ratio i believe it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 8.5 it is the stock l26 bottom end with flat top pistons. head is a n42. i am running stock boost which hits 7 psi with huge 28"x 12 front mount intercooler. intake temperatures stay around 70 degrees. fuel pressure is 30 psi, afr is low 12's under boost. using LC-1. when this engine was N/A i was getting ping and had to retard to 26 degrees under full throttle. ping has always starting at 4000 rpms and carried to 6500rpm (that's the highest i have taken it). right now my advanced is 22 degrees at 150 KPa, 23-140KPa, 24-130KPa, 28-120Kpa, 32-110KPa, 35-100KPa

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i'm am currently running msII v3.0 with edis 6. every map i load start to ping at higher rpms. at first i thought i just had a rattle but after retarding car it ran so much better. right now i am running l26 with n42 head. new turbo injectors and 240sx throttle body. just installed stock turbo with 3inch downpipe. i would ready like to know why this is happening before i blow another engine. i dont know my compression ratio i believe it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 8.5 it is the stock l26 bottom end with flat top pistons. head is a n42. i am running stock boost which hits 7 psi with huge 28"x 12 front mount intercooler. intake temperatures stay around 70 degrees. fuel pressure is 30 psi, afr is low 12's under boost. using LC-1. when this engine was N/A i was getting ping and had to retard to 26 degrees under full throttle. ping has always starting at 4000 rpms and carried to 6500rpm (that's the highest i have taken it). right now my advanced is 22 degrees at 150 KPa, 23-140KPa, 24-130KPa, 28-120Kpa, 32-110KPa, 35-100KPa

 

 

I'd be suspicious your comp. ratio is significantly higher than you beleive (ozdat puts it at ~9.25)

Previously i've run an l26 w/shaved ported OS valve etc e88 and flatops. I was running N/A and even so It took me a while to dial in the detonation issue (by the looks of 5/6 chambers so had the PO :P) I eventually conquered it by a combination approach of tinkering with slightly richers AFRs and bringing down my MAT's with creative pipework. I was able to run full 38* adv. However, that was N/A...

You have colder weather going for you but i think its still an uphill battle - considered dished pistons? there are 2&3mm steel HGs available in japan which may also solve problems of a compression-related aetiology :P

 

I think if detonation was an issue N/A you might have real problems under boost....:rolleyesg

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Try again; stock N42 head chamber size is 44.6cc, as is the open chamber E88.

 

On a stock L26 flat-top block, that would put you at 9.4:1 compression, so it's not surprising that you're pinging.

 

I'm running a 42cc chamber, 10cc dish pistons, and 88mm bores in an L28 and am sitting about 9:1 CR. Due to the cam I'm running, my cranking pressures for a compression check are only 100PSI. Exactly 100PSI on every cylinder, but still, much lower than you'd think for a 9:1 compression motor.

 

Compression tests will give you an idea of pressure, and will tell you if you've got an inconsistant cylinder; but they won't tell you your compression ratio.

 

What grade of fuel are you running?

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Lengine calculates the CR to be ~9.3:1. First of all, this is much too high for a turbo motor with an N or E series head. I'd only attempt that CR with a P series head, and even then, the static CR is probably too high. 8.5:1 max.

 

Also, did you calibrate your ignition system? For example, is 20BTC really 20BTC?

 

Pete

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yeah i screwed up. for some reason i was thinking edis which is a wasted spark system would fire twice as many times so my degrees would be twice as many. 10-20. so when my car was at 10 degrees i set my trigger wizard at 20. anyways i feel really stupid.

 

Verify the timing with a timing, it's the only way to be sure it's calibrated. It is amazing how many people make this assumption. Live an learn, right?

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