DavyZ Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 Pete, excellent job on describing how to start a carbed motor--maybe we should add it to the FAQ Badkarmacreepin, someday (not now) you can add an electric choke to the carb so you never have to use the choke manually again. But for now, just do what Pete has suggested and everything will be fine. The choke is the least of your troubles right now. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 another thing, what is the engine supposed to rev to? when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gears, it doesn't wanna go above 5500, but in 4th or 5th, it'll go to 7000. what is the limit and could the tach be off?(it's the stock Z tach right now, the autometer one is in the mail...)thanks. [ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: BadKarmaCreepin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 Dude, how fast are you going in 5th at 7000 rpm? Probably 140, right? WOW, kind of hard to believe it's actually turning 7000 rpm in 5th - the drag on the car is enough to overpower the engine in 5th (.68, I'd think). Anyway, a stock 350 may well top out at 5500 (in lower gears) for many reasons, probably mostly the valve springs can't close the valves fast enough and you're getting valve float. Next would be bad ignition (which you've mentioned - get that fixed first), fuel delivery problems, and low compression or a cam that just won't breathe well up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 ok, well, not 7000 in 5th, only 4th, but it didn't seem like 5th would have any troubles getting there. when you talk about ignition systems, is that just spark plugs, or is a whole other world i'm getting into now? would this just be easier to take the car into a mechanic and have him make a laundry list of things that need to be fixed or replaced? it seems like this might be an easier route to go. thanks. oh yeah, the engine has some sort of aftermarket cam and a holley 750 something(carb, right?) i hate this mechanically-declined stuff. hahaha! this is just gonna take a load of reading. [ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: BadKarmaCreepin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 Can't remember your setup - if it's an HEI, replace the cap and rotor, check the wires (with an ohm meter is best) to see if any are high resistance - should be no more than 100 ohms, I'd think - some are much lower than this. If the plugs are old or rounded center electrode, replace those too. Past that, it could be the stock HEI module in the distributor is breaking down - they were noted for falling down at high RPM. Get a Summit or Jegs catalog and pick a module and matched coil for the thing. And make sure you have a good sized wire going to the coil. I used the stock wiring to activate a relay on the firewall, and ran a #12 wire from the battery (fused) to the relay contacts, and then from the relay to the HEI power connector. This can get expensive. If you can get someone to put the car on a scope, they might be able to find the plug wire that might be bad, etc. But that's not cheap either. At the very least, I'd try the plugs, cap, rotor first, then maybe wires if you find one bad. The carb shouldn't care what gear you're in. Sounds like it's o.k. Might need some tweaking (different jets, power valve, etc.) But it probably is not your problem now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 The ignition includes the distributor, coil, spark plugs and wires, etc. Basically everything electrical to make the engine run. If you take the time to read some basic automotive repair books (any auto shop class at a JC uses them) you will have a better understanding of how everything works together to make your car run. Once you have that understanding, all the other books on modifying your engine, etc, will start to make sense. You will be able to diagnose problems yourself and either fix them or competently have a shop do it. I would ask around (on the net & local Camaro/Chevy clubs) for which shops to take it to in your area. You might want to make friends with some Chevy Club members. They will be an invaluable resource for helping you or directing you. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 HEI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 Big old distributor cap, like 5"+ in diameter. Here's a shot of the top of my distributor cap (big picture, so here's a URL): http://members.home.net/pparaska/image/recentpics/1999July18/hoodlatchdistribv.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted August 7, 2001 Share Posted August 7, 2001 i have nothing that clean looking on the entire car. the only thing i have close to that is this cylindrical looking thing with 5-6 wires coming out the top of it. forget it, i'm just gonna take crazy amounts of pictures so that the entire site knows how crappy (BUT EXTREMELY FAST!) my car is. [ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: BadKarmaCreepin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 Dan, if you can post some pictures or have someone you know do it, it'll make things a lot easier. Hang in there. Your car will get all sorted out and you'll enjoy it even more! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 man, i just got done TRYING to change the headlights, and i think i figured something out. i have neither the tools OR the patience to do this myself. there's no way that i know enough about cars in general for me to be able to do this. the extent of my tool collection is 5 wrenches and a screwdriver. and i can't afford to buy tools AND parts, so i'm just gonna have someone do all the work. the car is way too old, and everything is way too stuck in place for me to work on it, especially since everything i do has to be outside in an apartment parking lot. can anyone say "this sucks"? but i think if i find all the parts in advance, then the costs the shop will charge shouldn't be all that bad. i hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 If money is tight (it is for me!) then you'll get ahead buying your own tools and parts and learning how to work on cars. (a haynes manual can take you a long way!) Mechanics charge a lot of money to do very little. Much better off spending the same amount on tools, which you'll have for life and only have to buy once. Plus you'll know your car better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BadKarmaCreepin Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 1. ok, when i start this bad boy up, it's never on the first try. it's just recently i noticed the freakin' choke lever!! anyway, not being to familiar with how carb'd engine work and all, is it supposed to start right up, or am i supposed to be pumping the gas while turning it? 2. once i do get it started, if i slam the pedal to rev it, it goes up 1k and then it feels like the accelerator disengages and the car almost stalls. is that normal? after like 2 minutes of running, it's fine. is something wrong with the fuel delivery or what? 3. when i'm in too high of a gear, the engine sounds like it's gonna stall, so i have to hit the clutch. is that normal? thanks. oh yeah, keep in mind i'm used to driving a '94 civic. (yes, i apologize, i am a reformed ricer...) [ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: BadKarmaCreepin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 Hehehehe. Ah, someone who's never driven a carbed car - I bet there are a bunch of those! That's cool. Yeah, when the car's engine is not warmed up, you should be pulling the choke lever back (choke closed) and pump the gas 1 or two times. Then with the foot off the gas, crank her over. Should start fairly quickly, if it's tuned correctly and that choke is working properly. If you smell gas after cranking and it won't start, you might have flooded the engine. Easy, just put the pedal to the floor, push the choke lever forward (choke now open) and crank. This will clear it out and it'll start after a few cranks. Get ready to take your foot off the gas pedal though. You're running problems when cold should go away if you start it with the choke on (closed). Leave the choke on until the temp gage registers something like 150 degrees, then turn it off. Maybe shut it part way as it warms up too. Hope that helps. Glad this old geezer's knowledge about the old stuff isn't totally useless to the younger generation . [ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 If you're going to do ANY wrenching on this car, (and you will, given your monetary status, the age of the vehicle, and the fact that it's not bone stock) I've got two words for you that you will either live or die by. PENETRATING OIL. When I took off the bumpers and trim to paint my car, four (4) bolts did NOT break. All the rest of them were rusted in place after 27 years of neglect, and twisted off just as easy as pie. It is possible (but not adviseable) to live without a service manual, a large collection of tools, or even one kidney. But it's not possible to live without penetrating oil. When I took off the grille, I finally wised up and heated the bolts with a torch before trying to remove the screws. They came out with very little effort. So that would actually make four words: PENETRATING OIL PROPANE TORCH Oh, one more. BACTINE. You'll be scraping lots of knuckles, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 One more thing, on a COMPLETELY different topic: 7000 RPM?!?!?! One of three things is happening here: 1) Your tach is seriously miscalibrated, and you need to get it fixed so you can accurately set idle speed and such (this is my personal guess, since many stock tachs are highly inaccurate when used with non-stock running parts) 2) You're experiencing massive valve float, since the engine in question might be redlined at as little as 5,000 rpm, depending on its previous application 3) The P.O. (previous owner) spent some serious bucks building a killer engine, and you got one HELL of a good deal! If all you've driven before have been injected Japanese cars, you're probably used to getting into your power band by revving the engine into the stratosphere. *Most* pushrod 350s are much different, since they develop their power at much lower RPM's. Unless they've been seriously built, there's no benefit in wringing them out. Better to plan your shifts so that you're always at the peak of your power band. It doesn't sound as dramatic, but it does make you go faster. My unsolicited advice is to keep the revs fairly low until you have solid knowledge of what you're running. By spinning 7000 rpm, you're courting disaster until you know for certain what your redline is. Anyone have a differing opinion? [ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 8, 2001 Share Posted August 8, 2001 Scott, that was sound advice! No argument from me! I also agree with making sure you have tools to work on the car. To have a mechanic work on it all the time is a mistake, because things will break down over time based on the age of the car. To have tools and a Haynes manual is better, because of the righteous money you will end up saving in the long run. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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