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Terry Oxandale's body kit


Guest nezzie76

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Guest nezzie76

I'm wondering if any of you guys know what Terry's 240 body kit is. It looks REALLY cool on a z. It kinda looks like a mini-viper or something. I think that its looks rival the velo rossa kit for looks. Does anybody else have that kit or did he fabricate it himself?

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Not out of the question. Just a lot of work. Try picking up a book on FRP and composites sometime, they'll ususally lay out everything you need for a project like that. I would also consider grabbing another book on aerodynamics at the same time however, no point in making a body kit that is like a barn door. (and yes, its easy to make one that looks like it has a low Cd, and actually has a high Cd, if you don't know what you are looking for... look at the 240Z!)

 

Basically a good sized garagea few books, and some patience and hard work will get you there. smile.gif

 

------------------

"Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool."

 

Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6.

Drax240's Turbo Site

Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

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Guest Anonymous

Yeah, like Drax said, lots of info available. Start on something small, maybe a spoiler or a flare or something (or maybe something non-auto related) and go from there. Not impossible to learn, will take time and patience. I'm sure it took Terry lots of time to get it where he wanted it, but if you look at his car you can see his attention to detail is without question.

 

Lone

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nezzie76 (and anybody else who may be interested), you can look at a more detailed description of how I built this body at http://www.carolinazclub.com/cotw/car1.htm

with a few pictures included (a longer version of a previous post here at Hybridz). Also, there are some pictures of the "virgin" glasswork midway through the construction process at

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1541023

(look under the "Z fiberglass work") for these particular pictures. Don't let this work intimidate you. All the cars on HybridZ are an accumulation of smaller, simpler, easy steps, that all put together make what appears to be large, complicated projects. Like lonehdrider said, learn on small projects like vents, scoops, anything you need to make. Heck, I even made the air filter holder out of fiberglass on my Z because the round ones wouldn't fit under the hood. Your imagination is the only limit. I didn't know a thing about glasswork till I read a book, which gave me about 20% of what I needed. Then making "stuff" gave me another 50% of what I needed to learn. The other 30% will take another 40 more years to learn.

 

Terry

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On all my parts, the foam is either dissolved (with acetone if the foam will react to chemicals) out or simply broken out in pieces. None of the bigger pieces have the foam in them, EXCEPT for new expandable foam that was put back into the quarter panels for purposes of water proofing the space between the OEM quarter, and the fiberglass quarter panel. This was only done after my decision to make the car street legal and the possibility of driving it on wet streets. After the foam was sprayed in, I cut the new "well" to shape and then undercoated. In your question I made the part, removed it, removed the foam inside, laid wet glass strips on the quarters at all locations that the new glass quarter panel would make contact with the OEM steel panel, then while the glass was still wet, I laid the new glass panel on top of this wet glass and set it. Then when the glass kicked, I popped the panel off, so that now the glass panel had a surface that now perfectly matched the contour of the steel panel in every way. Then I just pop riveted it on the top, inside the door jams, and along the rear panel and under the steel quarter panel (much to my surprise I have had many complements as to the "competitive" look of the riveted panels). I do not recommend any bonding of glass to metal. Always, and I will defend this opinion adamantly, a glass to metal bond will eventually separate, causing rust marks and cracks in paint (different expansion coefficients, vibrations, imperfect bonds, etc). I have not ever used the current technology epoxies, and these may work very well. This is why I always either bolt, rivet, or Dzeus parts on to steel (also makes it much easier to R & R if something happens). Now glass to glass works well, and like I told MIKELLY, if you want to heavily modify a front end with fiberglass, the best start is with a fiberglass front end that can have the new glass parts bonded onto it, instead of onto the OEM steel parts. (Sorry about the loooonnnng post)

 

Terry

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks Terry, thats a wealth of info. I thought the same about the rivets, they look fine and give it that definate racer look (which it was). I am glad you mentioned the metal to glass joints, I always wondered about that, particularly with the Z's rather thin metal. Much appreciated.

 

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

Terry,

 

You mention on the smaller parts of melting the foam out after the glass has been hardened on a part. I was under the impression that the bigger panels still had foam under them, but I noticed in one photo what looked like pop rivets holding them on, how are they attached and is there foam still under those fender panels for example? Or was the foam removed off the car once it was shaped where you wanted it, laid up then melted out and the new parts put back on the car?

Thanks much for the past and present info.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

I know this sounds way off but a book you might want to check out is "how to build a Kevlar Cannoe".

This has been the best source of info I have found on using a 'foam pattern to produce fiberglass products.

It also talks about using local hardware 'foam to use as templates.

I haven't read all the books out there but this is a good one to start with.

 

BTW has anyone read "how to build Kit Car Bodies" I think the add had a Diablo on its book or add. icon_confused.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought the "How to build kit car bodies..." book with the diablo on the cover. Save your $30. You've probably already read the same info here in this forum. There is another "How to build fiberglass car bodies" book originally published in the 1960's which is much better for the scratch builder. It goes to a greater level of detail like creating door jambs and molding the recessed rain gutter that goes around a decklid opening. I bought it at Barnes and Noble a few years ago.

Mark

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