Lock mechanism problems that have been going on for years

[Hugh]

I recently had the body shop swap out my doors with a pair from a 72 that had almost no rust on them.

 

They lubed up the lock mechanisms and put my lock cylinders in there for me.

 

With my original 73 doors, the passenger side only locked from the inside with the door shut. The key would unlock it from the outside, but never lock it. My driver side worked as normal until rusting and falling apart eventually.

 

Now with the 'new' doors, both of my locks act as the old passenger side did. You can only lock them from the inside of the car. The keys unlock, but never lock them.

 

To actually lock my entire car, I have to pop the hatch and reach in to lock it from the inside. This is becoming quite a hassle.

 

Has anyone experienced this before? Is the passenger door operating normally?

 

I thought the cylinders could be in the wrong door, but they wouldn't hook up if that were the case. (they didn't remove the tab from the back that spins) Also when I look at the operation of the cylinder, it seems like when its turned toward locking, neither side actuates the tab that pushes the mechanism. Is this just a worn out cylinder?

[angel]

Mine is the same

My guess is that they swap the key locks.Thats what I did and ever since I can't lock the passenger door either.I can lock the driver side with the key tho.

[Hugh]

Well that's what I used to have, I think.. except I think I could lock the driver door before closing it. The passenger has always needed to be closed to lock.

 

If I could key-lock my driver side, I'd be happy.

[leftover z]

Well that's what I used to have, I think.. except I think I could lock the driver door before closing it. The passenger has always needed to be closed to lock.

 

If I could key-lock my driver side, I'd be happy.

 

 

If you pull up on the outside handle, push the lock button down, and close the door with the outside handle still up, it should lock.

[Hugh]

I'm pretty sure I've tried that a few times in the past with no luck. I just ran outside and tried it right now.. and nope. My lock will not push down unless the door is closed.

[leftover z]

Sounds like something is binding up or bent, or even broke. I'd take the door panel off and see what is keeping the knob from going down. Maybe you'll be lucky and just need to straighten the linkage, clean everything up, and give it a good lube job (white grease).

[p-factor]

I have a similar problem. The driver's side does not lock from outside with the key, and I can't press the lock down even when holding the outside handle up. To lock the doors I have to get out, walk around the car, reach in and lock the driver's door, then close the passenger door, lock it with the key, and then lock the hatch.

PO said it's been that way for as long as he owned it, and I haven't had time to really investigate it further.

[rallyeo]

I have the opposite problem with mine - the doors lock fine, but when I turn the key to unlock it only comes up about halfway and I have to turn it a couple times to get it open. I'm sure I just need to get in there and lube it up or something.

[Hugh]

I will dig into it and investigate. The body shop guy lubed everything nicely, and it all moves freely now. The unlocking procedure with the key is nice and smooth.

 

Problem is I've never had or seen properly working locks... so I don't even know how they're supposed to look or feel.

[Dtsnlvrs]

There is a travel adjustment piece inside the door that ya'll need to adjust. Kinda hard to describe right now (tequilla). Just take off your door panel, and watch the arms move as someone else locks and unlocks the door. Then adjust it as necessary. Trust me, once you open it up, and study it for about....oh two minute, you will see what I am talking about.

[Hugh]

Great, hope the tequila was good! I was out last night. Had to stick to beer.

 

I'll dig into it and see whats what. Thanks.

[Hugh]

Going into the driver's door (for perspective)

 

 

 

A little closer

 

 

 

In this image, you can clearly see some numbers are stamped on the side of the driver's lock cylinder. I thought I had read that only the passenger side has that?

 

 

 

The only piece I can see that adjusts is the door handle rod (with the large plastic piece on the threaded end)

 

 

 

 

Does this look correct? Are my lock cylinders on the wrong sides of the car or something? If I swap them, won't the tab on the back of the cylinder go the wrong way? Or do I need to pull the cotter pin and swap the tabs, too?

 

 

 

 

And this is just a deeper look so you can see the lever that crosses over down there.

Edited March 19, 2010 by Hugh

[leftover z]

The lock cylinders are interchangeable. It's the lever that is clipped on that is not. The 77-78's do not have the rods, so are easier to clean up, and no adjustments are needed. I'd try pushing the lock button down and see where it's binding. Also try locking and unlocking with the key. I'd think you'd be able to see if anything is binding up. It definitely looks like everything in there needs a good cleaning & lubing.

 

Not sure if this applies to your Z, but on the 77-78's, its the lever that is clipped on the lock cylinder that usually wears out. There is a cam lobe on the lever. That lobe wears down to the point where it might not catch to lock or unlock. On your setup, one of those rods is probably binding up or slightly bent. I'd play around with it since you have access now.

[Hugh]

Here's a video of it operating.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLi-vyzgBGM

 

Notice the cotter pin spins and the tab goes nowhere. The design of what I'm seeing there tells me it won't move a rod... because its got nothing impeding it from just spinning freely.

 

 

Agreed, everything could use a good lubing. What is normally visible looked OK, but now I stuck the camera into the door and can see much more.

Edited March 19, 2010 by Hugh

[leftover z]

Ok, I watched your video. Your lock is doing EXACTLY what mine was doing. Pull the lever off the back of your lock cylinder. Either the cam lobe (or tab) is worn, or the end of the lock cylinder that catches the tab is worn. If it's the lever, you'll need to replace it (which is what I had to do). If it's the part of the cylinder end that goes into the lever, you can put in a real thin washer between it and the lever.

 

This issue was brought on on classiczcars: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37484&highlight=lock

[Hugh]

Any chance of you relaying images over here?

 

I'm not a member of that forum, and therefore can't view images.

 

The post where the guy talks about a shim has no image at all for me.

Edited March 19, 2010 by Hugh

[leftover z]

Here ya go

[Hugh]

Excellent! I will try this, hopefully later today.

[leftover z]

No problem. Note that in my case, the shim didn't help. My lever had the tab worn, so I had to replace the lever. Here's a pic of my worn lever.

[Hugh]

Thank you very much for all this info.

 

I will report back my results when I get to it.