shift00 Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 (edited) I would first like to apoligize for posting yet another FI problem on this topic already over flowing with information. I have just become so frustrated with this problem, that I have humbled myself to post my my own issues. Thank you so much for your help. My problem goes as follows - Before I started restoring my car I had it running up and down the road. It had the # 5 cylinder out, but never the less it was running. I rebuild the motor along with everything else and now my fuel pump wont turn on. So, I downloaded the EFI bible and traced what I thought the problem was the Fuel Injection Relay. So i bought a new Relay and plugged it in and the fuel pump didn't turn on even after opening the AFM flap, and unplugging the oil pressure sensor. Then I wired up a 12v power source to the fuel pump which turned the pump on and I cranked my car over to see it run for a couple seconds and die with a hugh backfire out of the AFM. It will do this as long as the cold start valve is plugged in, If you unplug the valve it won't fire at all. Telling me that its only getting fuel to the cold start valve. Again I replaced the FIR, which according to the EFI bible sends current to the fuel pump ECU an Injectors, so why aren't the injector firing. Well, on page 33 of the EFI bible it show test #5 for the power relay-ECU-injector test. I can't figure out where the ignition lead wire is? If some could help me on the location of this wire that would be very helpful ( If its even on my year Z). So not knowing where the ignition lead wire is I went down to step 6 on the ENGINE WILL NOT START pages. The power relay which I believe is the fuel injection relay didn't click, however there was a clicking noise on the passenger side kick panel somewhere, which I thought could be the relay so I tested both. The result where (a) Relay doesn't click: (1) 3-(1) page 69 (yes read battery voltage) (2) 1-(7) page 55 (test negative) (3) 1- (8) page 56 (test negative) (b ) Relay clicks: (1) 2- (2), page 62 (did't read battery Voltage) (2) 2- (1) page 61 (Read battery voltage) (3) 1-(9a -9d) pages 57&60 (both test were negative) (4) 2-(3a-3f pages 63-68 (both test were negative) Alot of you guys know so much about these cars...Can You let me know what this test means? I will do anything you tell me to. Thanks so much, Joe. Edited March 24, 2010 by shift00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 I was in the garage all day, so I thought that I would post some the the test I to help diagnose the problem and to show the users of this site that I have been seaching. All the fusible links on the passenger side fender have 12+ volts. battery voltage at all injectors. Hooked a noid light up to all injectors and there are not receiving power. RPM tach moves to 300 rpm while cranking. Pulled off ecu plug-in and and the only pins that have 12+volts are pins 1,5,13,16,17,,20,&35 The funny thing is BRAAP stated on a 78 280z pins 5,16,17,&35 should be earth ground? Why am I receiving battery voltage to what should be earth ground? BRAAP said there is a plug-in underneath the driver side panel that spawns off the ECU harness, He called it the "umbilical harness that is a 6 plug that only uses 5 I tested these wire and the results goes as follows White/red wire has battery voltage and test light comes on when the key is in the "ON" position. This wire is the ignition on signal to the ECU. Black/yellow wire turns the test light on and also reads battery voltage in the "start" position. This wire is the "cranking" signal from the start position of the ignition switch. Blue wire gets battery voltage in "start" position. This wire is the RPM signal from the ignition module. Blue/Green wire neither turns the test light on or reads a battery voltage in any of the key position. This wire is the power coming from the fuel pump relay. I just replaced the Relay, why is there no power? Black/white wire gets battery voltage and test light comes on. Braaap Didn't state what this wire does. While I'm at it...for clarification sake The EFI bible state that the fuel injection relay is mounted on the LEFT hand kick panel above the control unit. Next it states that the fuel injection relay is two relays in one- power relay and fuel pump relay and to test it you place you hand over it, turn the car to start and see if it clicks, well the relay on the LEFT side doesn't. However theirs a relay on the passenger side that does click when i turn the ignition to start. If the FI relay is on the left side what is it that im hearing on the passenger side? BRAAAP TONY D DEARON NISMO280zed I need all of you help. PLease! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Okay, so I know for sure that I'm not getting power to my driver side fuel injection relay, because it doesn't click. Which wire going into the relay is the wire I can test for power? Thanks, Joe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted April 4, 2010 Author Share Posted April 4, 2010 Alright So I got the car running and I would like to tell what was wrong, hoping that it might help out someone that may have a similar problem. I'm such a idiot for not noticing this from the beginning, but I'm human. I stated earlier that pin 5,16,17, & 35 are supposed to be earth ground and I had battery voltage to those grounds..DUH! obviously that's not right so I cut up the wiring harness to the ECU plug-in and seen that all the wires running to the ground pins are BLUE. SO, I traced those wire all the way back to the positive battery terminal, HAHA! Hope this helps someone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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