shift00

Did the alternator fix your problem?

So, whats the verdict on the Johns Car set up? I haven't read about anyone buying this kit or heard how installations went? Since this thread was originally developed in 04' Im curious If their is more "LS1 Kits" available from other suppliers as well?

Here's a look the the door popper system I have rigged up. You can't really tell, but their is a cable that hooks up to the locking mechanism where the outside door handles use to be. Next, I ran that cable down to the bottom of the door jamb where it hit s pulley. From their it changes directions and runs along the bottom of the door jamb to the solenoid. ( you can barley make out the pulley in right hole in one of the photos attached) Door popper worked great the hole where the rubber door stop use to be.

When I bought the type 2 air-dam and put it on for a test fit, I did not like how far past the hood it went. So I cut approximately 3inches off the sides and shave the top to recess the air dam a little farther. This is how it turned out.

Working on installing the door poppers and solenoid. I got it mocked up ran it through a series of test to see if it would continue to work...so far no problems. I will try and have some photos on here soon.

for the front I got hubs off a 84 300zx turbo. In the rear all I did was that the stub axle and brake drums to a machine shop and had them redrill the pattern to 5/4.5.

Still got a lot of work to due, but here is the car freshly painted.

Car is painted! After all these years I still like the pepper grey metallic. However, I decided to ditch the racing stripes.

It's been along time guys and the project it still going.

I think it turned out pretty neat. I was interested in using solder for the "filler" on this hood. Does anyone have any ideas as to what i need to get?

Some what formed into shape. The metal got a little hot and warped a little. What welding combo are you guys using when welding on your cars?

Here is the start to the custom cowl induction.

emeraldlion- Im glad you digg the rims. I'm sure that you will be able to find some alot easier where you live than up here in alaska. When you get your rims and tires send me a picture of it!

anchorage. I had this car up in fairbanks for 3 years during this build, until i moved down here for a job.

primed the inside fenders and cowl piece for painting.

trying to make a cowl induction out of a stock hood.

Alright So I got the car running and I would like to tell what was wrong, hoping that it might help out someone that may have a similar problem. I'm such a idiot for not noticing this from the beginning, but I'm human. I stated earlier that pin 5,16,17, & 35 are supposed to be earth ground and I had battery voltage to those grounds..DUH! obviously that's not right so I cut up the wiring harness to the ECU plug-in and seen that all the wires running to the ground pins are BLUE. SO, I traced those wire all the way back to the positive battery terminal, HAHA! Hope this helps someone.

Ideas?

Okay, so I know for sure that I'm not getting power to my driver side fuel injection relay, because it doesn't click. Which wire going into the relay is the wire I can test for power? Thanks, Joe.

I was in the garage all day, so I thought that I would post some the the test I to help diagnose the problem and to show the users of this site that I have been seaching. All the fusible links on the passenger side fender have 12+ volts. battery voltage at all injectors. Hooked a noid light up to all injectors and there are not receiving power. RPM tach moves to 300 rpm while cranking. Pulled off ecu plug-in and and the only pins that have 12+volts are pins 1,5,13,16,17,,20,&35 The funny thing is BRAAP stated on a 78 280z pins 5,16,17,&35 should be earth ground? Why am I receiving battery voltage to what should be earth ground? BRAAP said there is a plug-in underneath the driver side panel that spawns off the ECU harness, He called it the "umbilical harness that is a 6 plug that only uses 5 I tested these wire and the results goes as follows White/red wire has battery voltage and test light comes on when the key is in the "ON" position. This wire is the ignition on signal to the ECU. Black/yellow wire turns the test light on and also reads battery voltage in the "start" position. This wire is the "cranking" signal from the start position of the ignition switch. Blue wire gets battery voltage in "start" position. This wire is the RPM signal from the ignition module. Blue/Green wire neither turns the test light on or reads a battery voltage in any of the key position. This wire is the power coming from the fuel pump relay. I just replaced the Relay, why is there no power? Black/white wire gets battery voltage and test light comes on. Braaap Didn't state what this wire does. While I'm at it...for clarification sake The EFI bible state that the fuel injection relay is mounted on the LEFT hand kick panel above the control unit. Next it states that the fuel injection relay is two relays in one- power relay and fuel pump relay and to test it you place you hand over it, turn the car to start and see if it clicks, well the relay on the LEFT side doesn't. However theirs a relay on the passenger side that does click when i turn the ignition to start. If the FI relay is on the left side what is it that im hearing on the passenger side? BRAAAP TONY D DEARON NISMO280zed I need all of you help. PLease!

Has anyone Been able to put a toyota tundra 4.7 motor into a Z? I think that would be an amazing combo with the gas mileage and the HP. Is it possible?

I would first like to apoligize for posting yet another FI problem on this topic already over flowing with information. I have just become so frustrated with this problem, that I have humbled myself to post my my own issues. Thank you so much for your help. My problem goes as follows - Before I started restoring my car I had it running up and down the road. It had the # 5 cylinder out, but never the less it was running. I rebuild the motor along with everything else and now my fuel pump wont turn on. So, I downloaded the EFI bible and traced what I thought the problem was the Fuel Injection Relay. So i bought a new Relay and plugged it in and the fuel pump didn't turn on even after opening the AFM flap, and unplugging the oil pressure sensor. Then I wired up a 12v power source to the fuel pump which turned the pump on and I cranked my car over to see it run for a couple seconds and die with a hugh backfire out of the AFM. It will do this as long as the cold start valve is plugged in, If you unplug the valve it won't fire at all. Telling me that its only getting fuel to the cold start valve. Again I replaced the FIR, which according to the EFI bible sends current to the fuel pump ECU an Injectors, so why aren't the injector firing. Well, on page 33 of the EFI bible it show test #5 for the power relay-ECU-injector test. I can't figure out where the ignition lead wire is? If some could help me on the location of this wire that would be very helpful ( If its even on my year Z). So not knowing where the ignition lead wire is I went down to step 6 on the ENGINE WILL NOT START pages. The power relay which I believe is the fuel injection relay didn't click, however there was a clicking noise on the passenger side kick panel somewhere, which I thought could be the relay so I tested both. The result where (a) Relay doesn't click: (1) 3-(1) page 69 (yes read battery voltage) (2) 1-(7) page 55 (test negative) (3) 1- (8) page 56 (test negative) (b ) Relay clicks: (1) 2- (2), page 62 (did't read battery Voltage) (2) 2- (1) page 61 (Read battery voltage) (3) 1-(9a -9d) pages 57&60 (both test were negative) (4) 2-(3a-3f pages 63-68 (both test were negative) Alot of you guys know so much about these cars...Can You let me know what this test means? I will do anything you tell me to. Thanks so much, Joe.

So I took the outer shell of the fuel injection relay off and pluged back in to the wiring. The weird thing is I touch the copper plate on the relay grounding it and low and behold the fuel pump turns on? SO, I went and ordered the new relay and it doesn't work? I have the EFI bible, but not that great at understanding electrical, What might be the problem? Also, how can I just rewire the fuel pump to at seperate switch running from the battery? Thanks, Joe.