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RB25DET Is Alive


Midnight-280Z

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Well, Just thought I post a picture of my Z. I finally got my car back and here is what it looks like all finished up. Now I need to get all my gauges working before I can start pushing my car the way I want to. I need a camera now so I can take more pictures and maybe a video too for everyone who wants to see it...Damn I hate being broke lol

post-2016-12705971385023_thumb.jpg

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Thanks, I now have some new problems :angry: I chatter in first gear as I'm taking off but if I play with the clutch a bit, I can get it to not chatter. It also blows smoke sometimes now as well. When I'm cruising at low rpm in 3rd gear and when I shift into neutral sometimes too...Any thoughts on what could be causing this? I might have to take it back to the shop this weekend to get it looked at :( I just got it back too...

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks, I now have some new problems :angry: I chatter in first gear as I'm taking off but if I play with the clutch a bit, I can get it to not chatter. It also blows smoke sometimes now as well. When I'm cruising at low rpm in 3rd gear and when I shift into neutral sometimes too...Any thoughts on what could be causing this? I might have to take it back to the shop this weekend to get it looked at :( I just got it back too...

 

Could need a tranny rebuild

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What's the condition of your clutch and how much power/torque are you putting down?

Could explain the chatter if it only happens on take off in first. Does it slip at all?

 

Blowing blue smoke under high loads could be a sign of ring wear.

Get a wet/dry compression test and post the results here. A leaskdown test would also be good to rule out valve stem-seals.

Also, a check on your oil for coolant could point to the head gasket being less likely, but a leakdown test will be better.

 

The shop that did the swap should be more than able to to the compression test and the leakdown test.

You can easily do them yourself as well if you get the correct gauges.

 

compression tester:

http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-drive-compression-tester-92697.html

 

leak down tester:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html

 

 

They're harbor freight, but they'll get the job done since we're looking at the consistency in the measured values and not the values themselves.

 

 

Hope this helps,

Ryan

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Get a video of it so we can hear it :D

 

Car is back in the shop for tuning so no video for now. So far it's making 230WHP and 260lbs of Torque on a Mustang Dynamometer AWD-500. It keeps blowing coils at 6,000 RPM. Not bad considering when I first came it the car only made 160WHP. The tuner popped the ECU open only to find that it was messed with...So now I'm looking for another ECU so I can get the car tuned properly and out of the shop. I hear that on a Dyno Jet the numbers are different than a Mustang Dyno. A guy with a stock Mistsubishi Evolution dynoed in at 185WHP. on the same exact dyno I'm using. So I'm really curious as how well my car will dyno in on a Dyno Jet. Once the car is finished with it's tuning, hopefully I'll have some time and to get it dynoed on a Dyno Jet to see the difference.

 

Anyone know where I can find a ECU for my Series 2 RB25DET? It'a a pain in the butt to find :angry:

 

@cockerstar,

Found out the problem with the smoke...It's a decel problem. Only happens on decel. It's not blue smoke, it's gray. Maybe my blue car reflected some blue into the smoke from the sunlight or I was high off the fumes my car was giving off that caused me to see a slight blue lol. Was told because of the BOV the air is not metered and forces the car into a rich condition. It's getting addressed during the tune as well. As for the clutch, it never slips it only grinds sometimes at accel. If I play with the clutch, I can get it to never happen. Still looking into this.

Edited by Midnight-280Z
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my car back from the shop...It's running great but it is running hot when sitting at a stop light. I might need to upgrade the fans and see if it fixes the problem. Funny thing is the Z got de-tuned because the clutch couldn't handle it. Right now it's set up to run at 9PSI making 230WHP and 201 lbs. of torque.

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Got my car back from the shop...It's running great but it is running hot when sitting at a stop light. I might need to upgrade the fans and see if it fixes the problem. Funny thing is the Z got de-tuned because the clutch couldn't handle it. Right now it's set up to run at 9PSI making 230WHP and 201 lbs. of torque.

 

What clutch are you running? What about radiator?

 

I was looking at your fan setup, maybe you could benefit from a fan that's more shrouded? Let me find a photo... Something like this as an example... this causes more of a suction effect and the areas covered in the shroud benefit from the fan vs. your fan only is efficient on the area right smack in the middle, your corners don't seem to have any effect on the fan at all

 

FAL-225_m.jpg

Edited by 240Z_Master
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I think the clutch is a OEM type of clutch, not sure though. The radiator is a PRC Dual Pass Aluminum radiator (made for the chevy V8 if I remember correctly) Rich over at Daft Innovation didn't really specify what clutch he put on there. As for the fan, I've been doing some thinking lately...I'm thinking of removing the old fan and putting it in between the radiator and intercooler as there seems to be enough room and turn it into a pusher fan. I'll then put a Flex-A-Lite (FAL) 16" puller fan on the back side of the radiator. This way my old fan will become a pusher and sit between the radiator and intercooler. On engine side the new 16" fan will become a puller. I'm still trying to think this threw before I bite the bullet. I've even thought about a dual fan like the one you listed as well. I honestly believe that the current fan on there just doesn't cut it by itself.

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Honestly, 2 fans may be overkill. But I figure if I'm going to get another fan anyways, might as well put the old one to good use :D. I see you also got a RB25..What's your set up like (cooling wise)? Maybe I can get some ideas on how I should set mine up

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Honestly, 2 fans may be overkill. But I figure if I'm going to get another fan anyways, might as well put the old one to good use :D. I see you also got a RB25..What's your set up like (cooling wise)? Maybe I can get some ideas on how I should set mine up

 

I need to change my fan... it's too wide but I'm using duel 12" fans from my old setup... I'll have to find a picture a bit later for ya.

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hey man, i bought a 240z, im thinking of putting a RB25DET IN IT. is it complicated? can you give me a guide on how to? 1 more question do i need to seem weld the chassi? or roll bars is it necessary?

 

First, you will need to search. It's all here from mounts to wiring, from stock to full blown. You do not need to seam weld the chassis and roll bars are not necessary. Although it never hurts to add these. I had a shop do all my work but you can buy the mounts (Rick Wong mounts, McKinney, custom, etc). For cars like ours, everything is nearly custom.

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  • 2 weeks later...

First, you will need to search. It's all here from mounts to wiring, from stock to full blown. You do not need to seam weld the chassis and roll bars are not necessary. Although it never hurts to add these. I had a shop do all my work but you can buy the mounts (Rick Wong mounts, McKinney, custom, etc). For cars like ours, everything is nearly custom.

 

Im running the exact same Rad as you, it works great, so the problem is with your fan or thermostat. The vent to atmosphere BOV's don't seem to work that great on our RB's I am switching back to a recirc one soon. Also you could run a series one RB25det board, IF you install the coil driver and swap the coils over ( you said they were flaky anyway). Or better yet, get a Rb20det or Z32 board, socket it and go with Nistune or some other style of chip tuning. That should get you decent power, if you need to redo the board anyhow.

 

How did you route your cam breathers ?

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The problem was with the fan and not the thermostat. After researching, I found out the fan that is currently on my car has a max flow of 1400CFM...I'll be switching to a FFD Electric Fan...It flows 3000CFM which is a big improvement over the fan I currently have and should solve the problem. I fixed my stalling BOV problem with a tune using the Apexi SAFC. For the breather, I have a mini filter on one end and the other ends actually lead to the turbo. I believe this is what you are referring to.

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