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Smooth Firewall


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

OK, you guys that like nice bodies (car bodies icon_smile.gif)

 

How do you create a smooth firewall. The Roadster has many holes and seems and I would like something much smoother. I could weld in new panels and leave the old in, but don't like the weight. Cutting out old and welding in new - I have better use of my time icon_smile.gif

 

Went to a car show and saw many nice examples - how do they do that!

 

Phil

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Guest Anonymous

If your cutting it all out, no problem, I'd leave a 1 or 2" paremeter of steel to attach the new firewall in. I'd use some thin aluminum plate and just cut a template to fit, transfer it to the piece, cut it out and rivet it to the steel. You may want to consider some sort of coating between the two so you don't get any weird dissimilar metal reactions. If you use thin sheet aluminum (or even steel) take the cut out piece to a rod/metal fabrication shop and have them roll a bead or two in it to stiffen it up. Obviously the same could be done with steel if you want, but you mentioned weight savings. You may want to leave a little extra inch or two in the trans tunnel area of the firewall and use a hammer and dolly (or a leather faced slapper would work good) to just bend the sheet over the original beginning of the tunnel (in other words fold the new aluminum back so it can be attached to the existing tunnel).

That should just about do it, drill for your major things going through the firewall

and you'll have it licked.

I probably over complicated things, but you seem like quite a fabricator, so this should be cake for you really.

For some great tips on sheetmetal crafting, look for either of Ron Fournier's books on the subject and you'll learn plenty from it.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

 

Ps: This should look pretty good IMHO, do remember to add maybe a steel framework of some sort to take the pushing on the clutch and brake master cylinders. Maybe even just a square tubular framework with mounts for both slave and brake masters or something like that, know what mean? icon_smile.gif

 

[ October 29, 2001: Message edited by: lonehdrider ]

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There are alot of loads carried by the firewall, both static and dynamic. The only way to do this is to support the car on a jig prior to cutting it out, and then make darned sure you have adequate thickness to carry the loads and tie it in well. This will be difficult to do with AL, since you need to tie it into the cowl area ate the bottom of the cowl space approx 6 inches below the hood level.

 

I'd just get a piece of AL of stainless that spans the entire area and put it in there for cosmetics.

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Guest Anonymous

Doh, I wasn't even thinking about the Unibody integrity, your right Pete. I was thinking in terms of the procedure vs the structural elements, I guess thats why they pay you engineers the big bucks.. icon_wink.gif

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Lone - You are almost right. The Roadster has a seperate frame that takes most of the loads, so cutting it out and putting in a new one would not be as risky as a uni body.

 

You guys got me thinking.... I may do a partial smooth job. Say, just above the tunnel with AL...mmm....will look more closely tonight.

 

Thanks for the ideas!

 

Phil

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Guest Anonymous

Right on Pete. Even with the frame I am shy of cutting on such an important part of the car.

 

Finishing out the interior and primed it in black (Roadster will be black one day). Could not see a thing without very good lighting. So, how about a metallic silver interior? 99% will be covered up and it will really help during assembly.

 

Phil

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Guest confuZed

Is fiberglass an option? fills holes rather well. light weight. Doesn't really need to be structural as the wall is still in tact behind it. I'm thinking of going this route

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