cruceno21 Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 I need to get the head rebuilt on my 75 280z. (we are pretty sure it is the head). Anyhow I have two options right now and I want some recommendations. I take the head off (which I have never done but I got some guys who will help) and take it to a local machine shop that said it would be between 250 and 350 to do the complete job. Then I get a gasket kit and put it back on. Or the second option is that I buy a rebuilt one from Datsun Parts LLC (http://www.datsunpartsllc.com/) which is around $400 plus shipping... then I get a gasket kit and install it. Anyone have experience with that engine rebuilder? I figure that at least will be less down time for my car. It is driveable now and I just put up with the smell (its not that bad anyways). Then I get to keep my head and then in the future if needed get that one rebuilt and maybe do a performance upgrade on it someday and swap it back. Or do I save the little bit of money and use my local shop? The guys in the SCCA here recommended the engine shop and said they do good work. I am new... I tried searching to find info on that supplier and this topic and didn't find much so don't flame me on the search function... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Depending on what's wrong with your existing head, I'd just take it in and have it rebuilt. Definitely get the full gasket kit. Removing the head is easy. I've done it so many times on my '78 that I can get it off in about 20-30 minutes. No pun intended. Just make sure you wedge the timing chain tensioner. The first time I pulled the head, I made the mistake of not wedging. It was hell getting it back on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted May 10, 2010 Author Share Posted May 10, 2010 It is burning oil so it isn't major. I just want the head fully rebuilt instead of just doing seals, and then later having to do something else. I need to find a good write up on removing the head. I search but didn't find it. The one int he FSM is a little confusing, I need non-mechanic speak and good tips like the one you mentioned. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Datsunparts LLC Looks a LOT like a major ebay scammer that used to go by the name reddat. He was selling mostly used, cleaned up and painted engines as new/rebuilt, and stroker motors that were nothing more than junkyard L28's. Not saying they are one and the same, I can't determine that, but the site layout looks a LOT like the old reddat stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 You've pretty much got two choices; you can remove the intake and exhaust manifold before you pull the head, or you can disconnect the exhaust and pull the head with manifolds attached. Most people opt for this because it's pretty hard to get all the manifold bolts off without pulling the head. The last time I did it, I labeled the wiring harness so it'd be easy to put it back together, pulled the harness to the side and pulled off the fuel rail and coolant lines. Basically disconnecting everything from the head and intake manifold. Disconnected the exhaust at the downpipe. To remove the head, you simply pull off the valve cover. Oh, and make sure you drain the oil before you do any of this. You'll see the bolts holding the head on, they look like big allen bolts. They're 10mm allen heads actually. I want to say there's 8-10 of them. Remove all of those. Now comes for the tricky part. You can either use a pre-made timing chain tensioner wedge (kits are available), or do what some people do and make your own. I know a guy who used a piece of AC hose. You're going to need to stick the wedge down the space inbetween the two sides of the chain underneath the cam gear. Make sure you get it far enough down so that it will keep the tensioner from popping out. I have a picture of it somewhere, I'll try to find it. If you get it wedged right, then you can pull the cam gear, and carefully lift the head + manifolds out of the engine bay. I just stood on the strut towers and deadlifted it out and passed it to a buddy standing by the engine bay. It's not as heavy as it looks. If you've got any questions, hit me up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Xnke: I remember seeing the reddat stuff on eBay. I never bought anything from him but it all looked pretty crappy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Cruceno. Try looking for a used head on craigslist or ebay or this site. You can sometimes find them for cheap. Send that head to your machinist, buy the book "How to rebuild your Datsun OHC engine", and then do the rebuild yourself. That way you will hopefully have minimal downtime and in the end, have a spare head. Or shoot, why not go for the whole sha-bang. Buy a compete longblock, and rebuild it. To me, the purpose of my Z is to not only enjoy the ride, but to learn as much as I can about automotive repair. Not sure if this is your daily driver, but if it isnt, why not take the time and invest your money into something you can be really proud of? Just a thought. Good luck with your car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Bone028 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Cruceno. Try looking for a used head on craigslist or ebay or this site. You can sometimes find them for cheap. Send that head to your machinist, buy the book "How to rebuild your Datsun OHC engine", and then do the rebuild yourself. That way you will hopefully have minimal downtime and in the end, have a spare head. Or shoot, why not go for the whole sha-bang. Buy a compete longblock, and rebuild it. To me, the purpose of my Z is to not only enjoy the ride, but to learn as much as I can about automotive repair. Not sure if this is your daily driver, but if it isnt, why not take the time and invest your money into something you can be really proud of? Just a thought. Good luck with your car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted May 11, 2010 Author Share Posted May 11, 2010 Thanks for the help... it is not my daily driver... I just don't want to be without it for a mega long time as I had hoped to autocross it some this summer and start having some fun. I don't want it to be down all summer. It doesn't burn a ton of oil... so I am wondering if I wait and just do it once I am done driving her for the summer. If I wait until this winter and do it, maybe if I have to get the manifolds off, I can clean up the engine bay a little and no rush the job to get her back on the road. Do some upgrades in there while I am at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260ruztmachine Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Why not buy one of these ----> OS Giken TC24-B1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 $30,000? I might have to pass... I was shocked when a shop wanted $1000 to remove, rebuild, and replace my head. Maybe that isn't so unreasonable thinking about the work involved. What all parts should I replace at the same time. The parts list is growing... Full Gasket Kit Sparkplugs Thermostats (one shop recommended, one shop requires it or they won't warranted the build) Head Bolts Valve Guides Assuming the rest of the parts in the head are fine... is that my parts list? Maybe I will start buying all the parts I need little by little to spread the cost out and drive her a little more. It isn't burning a ton of oil, am I damaging anything by driving her burning? besides the plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComicArtist Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 I didn't replace my head bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted May 14, 2010 Author Share Posted May 14, 2010 What are some recommended valve guides? I only found them through black dragon. Wasn't sure other options? They also sell standard ones and then upgraded ones... is it worth the money? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=24 Also, do I need the valve seats as well? I don't want to not order parts, then during the rebuild have to let the car sit while I order more parts. Someone here at a local shop recommended some ford valve guides that work well... its a guy at the machine shop who said lots of ford stuff works on Datsuns... he used to work on them he said (older guy) and would need to look up and try to see what part numbers they use to use on the old Zs... have not heard back from him yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetterben Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 Datsun llc is the rip off guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruceno21 Posted May 15, 2010 Author Share Posted May 15, 2010 I figured if he wasn't advertising here... then he might not be legit. I am starting to buy the parts needed for the rebuild. I found a local guy that will do it for me. So now just trying to locate all the parts at good deals (thats the hard part)... and then get her rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogriz91 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 (edited) There's a great thread entitled Big and Nasty headwork in the Nissan L6 Forum as well as a wealth of other engine rebuilding info if you haven't already read it. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/forum/32-nissan-l6-forum Edited May 16, 2010 by gogriz91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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