Engine Starts & then Dies

[Heathhh]

Lets start with the initial story before any problems had occurred.

 

-Bought the car, ran considerably well.

-Had some issues with performance and erratic idle eventually. Began using troubleshooting tools. Everything was checking out good (fuel pressure test, compression test, etc) But the vacuum did not check out, it was terribly low. The search for a vacuum leak began. In time, i believe i had found the leak, but the next time i had started the car up to see if i did, smoke arose from the engine bay.

 

Head gasket failed.

 

-Got the head checked at the machine shop, cleaned up and ready to go.

-New head gasket installed, and engine put back together. Looking very good so far. (A friend put the engine back together for me, that was a mistake i see now...read on)

 

Possible useful information-

 

In addition to that, before everything was put back together, i had blocked off the EGR. It felt like it was a pain in the butt and was causing some problems. In the process, nozzles on the TVV (thermal vacuum valve/switch) near the thermostat housing, had been broken off due to their fragility. The first and second nozzle of the 3 that are on the TVV. The frontal one connects to the AFM boot, and middle nozzle connects to the EGR and the 3rd nozzle i am not aware of where it connects. I blocked off the middle nozzle where the it had broken off (EGR nozzle, not needed), but the first front nozzle, i had reconnected with tape, some super glue etc so it would be able to at least pull with the vacuum...The TVV is not much to worry about i hear though...But this is information that may be helpful for the following below.

 

The newest problem.

 

-The car starts up fine, but just for a second, and then shuts off immediately IF the gas pedal is not pressed to keep the rpm's up. So, if the car is started and the rpm's are kept up with the pedal depressed, the car runs, but very nasty. If the car is started and not helped, it will immediately cut out. (much of this is probably due to the poor workmanship of my supposedly "very reputable" friend...POS work, again a mistake to have him help me...)

 

All of these pictures that were taken was when the engine was at TDC and at 0 degrees on the timing plate. I took off the valve cover.

 

-Found a improperly fit gasket where the timing chain is. Here's a picture. As you can see, it is not properly seated and could be the vacuum leak i am experiencing causing the engine to cut out if not helped. Yesterday i had applied RTV silicone to the outside of the head around the seam to seal it off. (Wont be able to see if it helped until today)

 

-The timing appears to be off. The bright chain link is circled in white, and the #1 is circled in red. Haynes manual says it is supposed to be line up...

 

-Though cam timing is off, the 2 frontal cam lobes are in correct position it appears, both equally outward and upright. And with the engine at 0 degrees TDC...I am having trouble putting this together in my head. This is a question of mine-Is there any way to check if the crankshaft is lined up with the bright chain link of its own without taking the front apart-to determine if the cam timing is just a tooth off and not both the cam and crankshaft are any number of tooths off?

 

 

 

If i remember correctly, these are what the Haynes manual says for when the engine starts but immediately shuts off.

 

-Fuel not getting to the injectors

-Intake manifold gasket leak

-Distributor wires are loose/corroded

-Improper valve clearances( that might have been if it doesn't start at all )

-Ignition timing ( i think that was one of the possible problems )

-( maybe some other possibility i cannot think of )

 

 

 

 

Things i have done so far since i discovered the problems

 

-Fuel pressure-GOOD

-Checked timing-(had my brother keep the rpms as steady as possible when checking timing) the white mark i made on the notch was either all over the place, or not even in view when the timing gun was being used. (this was before head was sealed with RTV)

-Sealed off head with RTV silicone

 

 

 

 

Stuff i will be doing today

 

-Compression test

-Checking with hybridz to see what others have to say before i move forward anymore.

 

 

Ask me anything to help you help me.

 

 

Thanks,

Heath

[Xnke]

That gasket that is not right is the Headgasket...you might get away with it with some sealant. Expect to leak oil all over the front of the motor eventually.

 

It does sound like a vacuum leak or a timing issue.

[Heathhh]

Currently, i got the car running. Confirmed it was the oil pump/dizzy shaft that was misaligned.

 

In the process of fixing this, i had broken 2 oil pump bolts in half while screwing them in...Over torquing them i believe, or they were just weak...

 

As of now though, the car runs fair. The good news is while driving it there seems to be a bit more torque through each gear and the car is seemingly a lot faster than before.

 

The bad news;

Soon after i bought the car, i had troubles with the idling. I am experiencing the same idle problems right now...That is when the car starts up, the rpm goes up accordingly, but then drops back down to about 300rpms, eagerly about to die, but VERY SLOWLY works it's way up to a good idle. I just wait till it gets to temp, and then if i just tap the gas pedal, the idle goes down to 300rpms again. REPEAT.

 

Anyone have ideas? I assume it's vacuum, but then again, i installed quite a few new hoses and tightened many bolts to make sure it wasn't gasket surfaces etc. I'm beginning to think it could be injector problems, the Throttle position sensor that a friend suggested, or anything else. Possibly slightly clogged exhaust?

 

How do i check the Throttle position sensor / switch btw? Can anybody tell me, or at least tell me the page in the FSM cause i was not having good luck as usual...trying to find it.

[Ajthib]

I would replace the head gasket again. The RTV sealant might be giving out causing more air to be sucked in. As far as the TPS goes, place a voltmeter on each terminal and move the throttle plate and you should see a fluctuation in volts.