PapaSmurf Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 So I recently transplanted an f54 into my s30 and ran into the clutch fan issue. For those of you who are not aware of it the f54 blocks came with 3 row crank shaft pulleys, the third row is for driving the power steering. This makes the pulley longer than the two row pulleys standard on s30 n42 engines. This presents a problem - the clutch fan from an s30 hits the crankshaft pulley and the one from an s130 hits radiator. The only REAL solution is to remove the pulley and replace it with one from an s30, other ways to fix the issue involve super thin electric fans or what I tried earlier - cutting the clutch fan blades back a bit. The problem I'm running into now is the pulley refuses to come off, I broke my first puller, my second puller has since broken every row on the pulley in multiple places, now I have a duck foot style puller I am going to try to use. The hammer does nothing, the 6ft pry bar does nothing, Now I've got a broken pulley that seems to be permanently attached to the crank. If the duck foot puller doesn't work I'm going to have to go buy a map torch and try heating it - which I wanted to avoid because I don't feel like replacing my front seal. I just wanted to rant for a bit, does anyone have any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spork Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 So I recently transplanted an f54 into my s30 and ran into the clutch fan issue. For those of you who are not aware of it the f54 blocks came with 3 row crank shaft pulleys, the third row is for driving the power steering. This makes the pulley longer than the two row pulleys standard on s30 n42 engines. This presents a problem - the clutch fan from an s30 hits the crankshaft pulley and the one from an s130 hits radiator. The only REAL solution is to remove the pulley and replace it with one from an s30, other ways to fix the issue involve super thin electric fans or what I tried earlier - cutting the clutch fan blades back a bit. The problem I'm running into now is the pulley refuses to come off, I broke my first puller, my second puller has since broken every row on the pulley in multiple places, now I have a duck foot style puller I am going to try to use. The hammer does nothing, the 6ft pry bar does nothing, Now I've got a broken pulley that seems to be permanently attached to the crank. If the duck foot puller doesn't work I'm going to have to go buy a map torch and try heating it - which I wanted to avoid because I don't feel like replacing my front seal. I just wanted to rant for a bit, does anyone have any other suggestions? You're probably on the right track with the heat. Just heat the pulley and the front seal should be fine. Worse comes to worse, you put a front seal in, but that's not a horrible thing either. How hard did this pulley go on initially? Id there a chance it just not pulling straight with the puller. I'd use heat and puller once its hot. No need for it to be glowing, just enough to expand the pulley some and loosen it up. Some "light" taps on the pulley while using the puller can help in keeping it pulling off straight. Inspect the snout and key and keyway before re-assembling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PapaSmurf Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 actually I happen to know for a fact that this pulley has never been removed. I was unable to remove it when I first went through the engine, the timing chain was not stretched and the front cover was not leaking so I decided to leave it and try later. The reason I'm removing it now is only due to clearance issues, but it would be nice to know that it will come off easy when needed in the future after reinstallation. My biggest concern at the moment is stripping the thread of the crankshaft where the bolt goes in. Tomorrow the duckfoot in conjuction with the map torch should get it off, If that doesnt work the blazer and a long chain will fix/break everything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PapaSmurf Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 the map torch and duck foot worked, I got the old pulley off in about 8 pieces. The end of the crank shaft was warped a bit under it, I smoothed it out with some sand paper and a dremel for the scarred bits and installed the new one. That was an ordeal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 The third pulley is bolted to the two back pulleys by six bolts. It can be removed. I just don't know if this effects the balance at all. Maybe some one answer that . If it doesn't, taking it of may give you the clearance you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PapaSmurf Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 The third pulley is bolted to the two back pulleys by six bolts. It can be removed. I just don't know if this effects the balance at all. Maybe some one answer that . If it doesn't, taking it of may give you the clearance you need. Like I said, I got it off - in 8 pieces. You can unbolt the top pulley but that doesn't mean it will come off My main problem is that the end of the crank shaft was warped. When I put the new one on it required a mallet. Usually they just slide on with some grease. I've discovered that this new engine I was so happy to buy has bad rings, a warped head, and now a warped crank. The whole damned thing has to come out again. I don't know why I can never find a good engine - I've bought at least 6 in the last 8 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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