PapaSmurf

I'm absolutely sure that the frame is going to be tweaked after this many years and who knows how many hits its taken. I could spend an eternity screwing with it or I could get it straight and back on the road. I dropped the gas tank and sawed through the 35 year old hoses now I need to source them. I removed the drivers side door and it looks like the lower hinge pin is broken it probably happened when it crashed it was loose but intact before. I removed the hinges and I have a set of better ones sand blasted and a brand new pin to press in. Hopefully I can get the door set up properly. Waiting on a friend with a welder to help out with the back im just going to close the holes a d shave it. I removed the other bumper strut now that I have the tank off too. I don't see any damage under the tank area or any signs of movement.

With that window out the door still will not close I removed a few bolts in side of door that were binding and it still doesn't shut its odd it doesn't look like the body moved at all let alone enough to cause this much of a problem on the door

I can see some seperation between the deck of the hatch and the side sheet metal on the drivers side - its about an 8th of an inch and there is bondo there from a previous hit. Other than that I don't see anything I'm going to remove the inner panels and look closer. I pulled out the side window it seems to have been pushed forward slightly by the hit there was rust and bondo below and a little crumpled sheet metal maybe from before maybe from now I don't know

Thanks I have a friend with a wire feed I can borrow but if that falls through I'll probably pick up a cheap arc welder at harbor freight and just do it I'm working on reforming and painting the tail light casings and trim. I have a set of door hinges to rebuild hopefully I can get this door to close the body doesn't look like it moved much but something is making this door bind where it didn't before frame seems straight...

Hehe well I suppose I have to learn... I've heard of fiberglass rear valances and bumpers so I was hoping for a cheaper easier solution

thief got into my car and wrecked it. It took a hit to the rear bumper which crumpled the rear drivers side a bit, door doesnt shut well but I think I can fix it with the new hinges I have and my hammer. got the back bumper off and started exploratory surgery. The car had taken a hit to its rear before I got it and there was quite a bit of bondo and rust. I'm trying to formulate a plan of attack. I dont weld but this rear valance has got to go I was thinking of shaving it somehow its pretty crumpled. Maybe I can cut it off and replace it with some ricey wire mesh... any ideas would be greatly appreciated. The fuel tank is smashed luckily I have a new one in a box wrapped in syranwrap - I'll drop the old and remove the other bumper strut and then I'm not sure what I'm going to do

I like the look I think my kids would end up peeling it all off in a month tho they should offer a hardener to spray on I wonder how awful a coat of clear would look on this stuff

I need to buy another latch now that I know it fits for the other side and a urethane mold kit to make a new seal

Woot I got the sunroof latch in the mail today its not an exact match but it was soooo close the id of the retaining pin hole was smaller than what I had so I used the pin that came with the new latch and used my old plastic piece so it matched I just needed the pin that went through the glass :)

Makes me want to swap heads and use a mechanical pump or get off my ass and get started with megasquirt and a return to efi but that would mean a new fuel tank.

I think it isn't venting properly or the system was just designed for the return pressure from fuel injection and the carbs flow before the return line does... It doesn't leak when the engine is running at least but it makes me nervous. With the ignition on the fuel pump runs constantly and does not shut off like it should I think I need to deal with electrical gremlins soon

Well fark I'm losing this battle. With the holley regulator holding a steady 3psi and a brand new float valve the carb is still leaking out the float chamber. The float is not sinking and is adjusted. I'm at a loss. I blew through the return line to check for blockage and it was not easy and it seemed to just pressurize the tank as though its not venting. After blowing fuel spewed out so I guess its not clogged. I popped off the gas cap and It didn't make any difference.

Nope no rtv anywhere in the can not sure what blocked it up but it needs reground for sure oh wells I've amassed lots of spares due to thinking ahead prior screw ups lol i got it running properly now and a new fuel regulator to mount tomorrow but ive found a rip in my rack boot and two ball joints that need my attention before its gonna go anywhere. Cheaper out and reused the clutch and that's slippery too so it looks like I'm out most of the summer

Call me crazy but I really love this sunroof. It suits the car its been there for every mile on the odometer. Does anyone have any ideas on how to make a new seal or repair this one if a nos piece can not be found? I was thinking if I remove the frame and seal it then I have my mold...

Couldn't get a good photo but

Looking for help with this old sunroof on my 78. Glass 33.5 x 15.5in rounded rectangle tinted says solar cool on center back. It is pop up style with two back pop up latches and two forward hinges. I think it was a dealer option... I ordered a latch that looks like it may fit on eBay but I still need a seal. If I can't figure it out plan B will involve a rubber mold plan C I suppose is finding some metal and a new headliner

Confirmed the issue the third lobe in from back is visibly damaged. Removing the oil filler cap when idling results in a mess from the higher oil pressure at the front of the cam. Good thing I have some spare cams I'll pick one and have it polished and install a spray bar while I'm in there to prevent this sort of thing in the future thanks tony!

Aww hadn't thought of that its internally oiled p79 stock cam maybe I'll stick my oil spray bar in. Thanks tony I'll inspect the cam tomorrow and see whats happening

Crap the float vent is leaking again at 800rpms if I turn it up to 1000rpms it seems to keep up with the pump. It looks like my regulator really is the culprit I have a new holley one in the mail with a gauge anyways but I had hoped to drive this thing before then now i can't trust it. Anyways I didn't hear the squeak on its last run at all so I think the bearings are OK I'll just take it easy and keep an ear out I suppose unless someone has better advise

I just rebuilt this l28 and finally got it to stop leaking out the rear carb (bad float valve) and got the clutch working again (clutch master cylinder) and today got it all dialed in with another hot valve adjustment and tuned the carbs and set the ignition timing. It would seem she's FINALLY ready to drive - but I have a concern. The first time I started her (after realizing that I had set the distributor shaft backwards again and fixing it- why can't they make a reversible dizzy rotor??) She squeaked. She started right up easilly purred pleasantly then squeaked about 30 times a second or two apart. It sounded like it was coming from the rear of the block. It sounded like I might have had a dry bearing. I checked the clearances of the new bearings with plastiguage everything was in spec the crank was polished and the bearings dipped in oil they should not squeak! This is my first L bottom end rebuild so what do I know though. I turned it off and let it sit a few minutes and started it again it squeaked once more and then was quiet. I ran it for about 20 minutes today at idle and up to about 3k while tuning the carbs and the squeak returned but much much quieter on first start it was so quiet it may have been my imagination. I'm just here to ask - should I be worried? Will this break in or should I tear it back down and inspect? I primed the engine before start up by taking out the plugs and running it without fuel or spark till oil reached the head so the only thing I could imagine that caused this would be a blockage in the crank oil passage ways. Oil pressure according to the lying gauge is lower than it used to be before the rebuild at idle and about right at load. I have another oil pump I might swap in this one is new and may be the cause of the low pressure at idle then again the oil pressure sender was removed with a pipe wrench and may have been effected - not that its a trustworthy indicator of actual current oil pressure anyways. Anyone want to slap me and tell me to drive it fast and stop worrying so much?

I'm ressurecting this topic again to report on the longevity of the mr.Gasket fuel regulator I used. Shortly after my last post on this thread I started having head sealing issues and I tore the engine out and started a rebuild. Well now it's been 3 years and the car went on her first drive with the newly rebuilt engine the other night and once again I have a fuel problem. Fuel is spitting out the float bowl on the rear carb and out of the filter. So it seems the Mr.Gasket regulator did some rotting while it sat and now my fuel pressure is too high. I've got a new float valve on the way too just in case this one was blown out as it seems to have been. The moral of the story is cheap parts should not be in charge of protecting expensive parts it just doesn't work out.

I'm happy I got it done and all mated up to the transmission its finally sitting in the engine bay again. tomorrow I should have it mounted and its all easy as pie after that. The tire worked well I can't believe I didn't think of that

Thanks guys I like the tire idea too. Got a hose for the air compressor today and the impact wrench is a joke anyways I figured it would be weak but I thought could at least get it started and use a torque wrench to get it down the rest of the way no real point though this thing can't even get the lugs off my tires. I'll just prop it up in a tire and use my brace and incredible manly (puney) arms and a torque wrench + long ass pipe maybe I'll get the wife to sit on top so it stays in place

Well the flywheel is removed I just picked up a 150psi compressor and impact wrench yesterday but I'm not sure how much oomph it has if I'm gonna torque it down to the factory spec and prevent the crank from turning that may not work I made a brace for the flywheel to keep it from spinning on removal but it needs the ground to work

Hey guys so I've finished my l6 rebuild and now its time to take it the engine stand and get the flywheel off. I was curious does everyone just set it on the ground for this part as I've always done in the past or does anyone have any alternatives? I just got this oil pan all painted up and pretty it would be a shame to scratch and dent it. I thought about building some sort of side mount and bolting it on to the motor mount location has anyone done this? Not sure how well this would work. I'm mostly thinking about next time I'll probably pile up some 2x4s and support it that way for now but I was just curious if anyone had a better way