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Yet another fiberglass question


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Hey all you guys familiar with fiberglass. I have not done much of anything with it and Im taking on a large project with my zvertible. Anyhow the previous owner installed jim cook racing flares which look really good. Problem is they are cracking where mated with the body. I was wondering what the options where to getting them to stay. Second problem one side is damaged due to a wheel flying off. I am planning on repairing the fiberglass and want to know the strongest way to do it. I can only repair from the top because the back is filled in with foam. I was wondering if I could use really fine fiberglass matting with structural adhesive rather than the resin. Thanks all.

 

~Jared~

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This is exactly why I do not bond glass to metal. The durability of the "fix" is directly proportional to the work put into it. If you plan on being buried with this car in old age, then the long of it is to remove the quarters/flares (which ever is the problem), remove the rust between the two (because there WILL be rust), and then either bonding it with the current technology epoxy/bonding agents, or an even more protracted fix, is to make them bolt-on. If you don't plan on keeping it more than a few years, then grinding out the crack, laying in new glass (or bondo depending on how severe it is), and finishing it up. As far as the crack in the glass, you will need to v-groove along the crack. If it goes all the way through the material, then stop the goove just as it breaks through the intire thickness of the panel. make it at least 5X the depth of the groove. Then if possible, determine what weight or type of mat/cloth was originally used, and the mat/resin ratio so that it can be duplicated to keep the newly added fix in the same strength/flexibility range that the original material is. If not, over time, the fix will become more visible as stresses will be focused on the transition between the two sides of the fix. A lot more can be said on this, but I'm trying to keep it reasonably brief.

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I still want to know what the limitations are on structural adhesives I was wondering if I could lay the first layer of fiberglass with the adhesive for a good bond to the metal and then fiberglass over it. THanks for any and all input

 

Jared

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Guest Anonymous

Blue Oval Z's comments on bonding fiberglass to metal is accurate because over time the fiberglass part will crack away. The problem with your solution of using adhesive and fiberglass cloth initially to bond to the steel may be a question of compatibility of adhesive and fiberglass cloth. Read the directions on the adhesive can.There is this stuff like a bondo that is fbrglass gel and fiberglass fibers mixed together. This might work as a fix to repair your fender problems but for how long ? I came across this 2 part epoxy putty called Sea Goin Poxy Putty by Permalite Plastics in Newport Beach California 92663 which is all the address the two cans have on them. This stuff came with a 250 GTO body kit that required the rear clip to be bonded on the Z car. I only used it on some door skins for my Tomahawk but found it interesting due to a 30 minute working time and a long curing time of 24 hours and it seems to be holding on like solid rock without cracking after 4 years. I would suggest that you might obtain information from this company....Post script : I found more on Google 1-800-663-0302 Permalite Plastics 1537 Monrovia Avenue Newport Beach Ca. 92663

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Thanks for that info. I will definatly check on it. Anyone else use this stuff or a similar product with good results. I used some jb weld on a chevy spectrum just to see how it would hold up it seemed to bond exeptionally well to the bare metal and painted over nicely and over a year later still no cracks. Not really a preference for my z though. Thanks all for input

 

Jared

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This Permalite epoxy putty was very similar to JB Weld and maybe better. This stuff is made to bond anything and can be applied underwater and will cure underwater. I originally had a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of catalyst.

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