7mgte swap guide 4 240z

[avid.zepeda8]

hi I hhave been looking for a swap in my 240z and i have owned supras before and love the 7m power and offordability my question is does any one know or can tell me where or how to install one in the s30 chassis its a 71 240z in good shape. how get the wiring in the chassis,motor mounts engine an tranny what will i need , the do´s and dont´ off the swap. driveshaft measurement,what differentil to use the full swap can any on guide me and is the 1jz swap related to the 7m talking about the fitting of the engine and where the mounts go please help. sincerly david.

[avid.zepeda8]

its me david forgot to mention i have a wire harness and ecu, motor and tranny i bought this for little under 1,800 with close to 70,000 mile will this be a good candidate for the swap im wanting to do.

[jbehuniak]

the R200 or R230 is going to be the rear end you'll want. Techno Toy Tuning sells a kit, but it pretty much makes your rear end components into a 240sx. Its worth it though. Also AZC makes the mustache bar for it and modern motosports makes a install kit too. Do the swap so it fits. Probably going to want to get a better fuel pump. Try a search or look in the 6cyl forums to see the 1jz install.

[jbehuniak]

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/90943-7mgtz-moving-under-its-own-power/page__p__861518__hl__7mgte__fromsearch__1#entry861518

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/61936-my-1jz-260z/page__hl__7mgte

 

^1jz install

[jbehuniak]

also for the Diff:

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=50499

[OustedFairlady]

I know it's an old post, but in case the guy is still reading up...

 

OP, I'm assuming you bought a JDM 7M swap, and as such, I'm going to suggest you buy a multilayer steel headgasket and ARP headstuds for your 7M. I'm not sure how much you know, but the factory torque spec (58 ft-lbs) for the 7MGTE cylinder head is woefully inadequate, and you will almost certainly lose the head gasket very soon under additional boost. You can retorque the cylinder head to 72 ft-lbs for a stopgap measure, but the only real way to correctly solve the issue is to buy the parts and replace the gasket with an aftermarket one.

 

When you have it done, if you do, remember to have the head and block machined (INCLUDING THE FRONT TIMING BELT HOUSING, or the aluminum piece that bolts to the block and contains the water pump housing, etc.) for the head gasket so it seals properly. The ARP studs should be torqued to 72 ft-lbs at minimum.

 

The parts you're looking for are either Cometic, HKS, or Greddy made MLS headgaskets, and ARP headstuds (I'll try to get part numbers). I'm running an HKS 1.2mm head gasket (86mm bore) with ARP headstuds in my Supra. The gasket runs around 100 bucks on eBay for a 1.2mm, and progressively higher with thicknesses.

 

*EDIT*

It seems that the OP only had four posts, most of which are in this thread, and all of which were several months ago. So I suppose this can just be common knowledge.

Edited September 25, 2010 by OustedFairlady

[badjuju]

The only way to really mount the motor up is to test fit it.

 

I held mine up with my engine hoist, with the motor inside the car, and made sure it was level (left-right) and made sure the transmission's front\back angle matched the differential's angle.

 

Then I bolted a flat piece of steel to the motor where the mounts were going to go, then I bolted a flat piece of steel to the car where the mounts were going to go.

 

Then I cut pieces of cardboard that looked like they'd fit in between the two pieces of flat steel on either side. Then I cut different ones until the cardboard fit perfectly. Then I used those pieces of cardboard as templates to cut steel.

 

Then I cut the steel

 

Then I held the pieces in place, one at a time, and tack welded them in.

 

Then I CAREFULLY (because you only tack welded these pieces together, you don't want to break the welds) unbolted the flat pieces of steel from the car, and from the motor.

 

Then I CAREFULLY lifted up the motor and removed the mockups of the mounts I just made.

 

Then I welded the SH*T out of those babies! Works like a charm! Use Clifton's pics as reference... I asked some similar questions to yours about a year ago, and Clifton posted some pics in the threads.

[ShaggyZ]

The only way to really mount the motor up is to test fit it.

 

I held mine up with my engine hoist, with the motor inside the car, and made sure it was level (left-right) and made sure the transmission's front\back angle matched the differential's angle.

 

Then I bolted a flat piece of steel to the motor where the mounts were going to go, then I bolted a flat piece of steel to the car where the mounts were going to go.

 

Then I cut pieces of cardboard that looked like they'd fit in between the two pieces of flat steel on either side. Then I cut different ones until the cardboard fit perfectly. Then I used those pieces of cardboard as templates to cut steel.

 

Then I cut the steel

 

Then I held the pieces in place, one at a time, and tack welded them in.

 

Then I CAREFULLY (because you only tack welded these pieces together, you don't want to break the welds) unbolted the flat pieces of steel from the car, and from the motor.

 

Then I CAREFULLY lifted up the motor and removed the mockups of the mounts I just made.

 

Then I welded the SH*T out of those babies! Works like a charm! Use Clifton's pics as reference... I asked some similar questions to yours about a year ago, and Clifton posted some pics in the threads.

Do you have pictures of your own work? I don't care if they're ugly.